Tilt and Trim not working. Bottomed out my boat.

[hughespat57]

Your not seeing what we are trying to say.
You block is missing a complete fitting section, its gone , sheared off, corroded
The hose and whats left of that piece is still up in the boat

 

[hughespat57]

Ruski1107 - your doing fine,
just keep working at getting some slack in the Mercathode wiring or find the connectors and get them apart.
And some slack in the hoses
The engine does not need to come out.

If the impact had been so hard as to throw you off your feet.
Or if there was any visible damage to the lower unit, prop, etc I would understand involving my insurance company and a professional mechanic.
However, I have a $500 deductible, if the insurance agreed to pay at all.
And any adjustor could easily say this is just neglected maintenance with no other visible damage.
Because this, so far, looks like corrosion weakened the block, which I pointed out in the very beginning was a possibility.

Why did I mention that the blocks fail up right up front?
Because I am a retired USCG Machinery Technician who has worked on plenty of Mercruisers.
An ASE certified Master Heavy Mechanic
An ASE certified Automotive Mechanic
And now a Senior Systems Engineer for IBM

A new block is $50, and yes a bit of work for a newbie, but he's learning
And that's what the forums are for
It's fine to point out insurance might cover it. Hell I need to remember that, I usually just jump it to getting it fixed.
And I'm 63 now. Time to let someone else do it if it's covered.

And I take no offense at the mechanic comments it goes both ways.
Mech: "Ma'm I don't know why your engine died."
Lady: "But you worked on it yesterday, it was fine before that"
Mech: "But Ma'm all we did was fix your wipers..."
real first hand conversation

 

[Ruski1107]

Your not seeing what we are trying to say.
You block is missing a complete fitting section, its gone , sheared off, corroded
The hose and whats left of that piece is still up in the boat

View attachment 91031

View attachment 91032

yes, I figured that out earlier today after seeing a new manifold block photo. The remaining fitting has a red and black electrical wire running along side of it. What are those wires for? I’m afraid of yanking out the old manifold block and ripping those wires. There’s also a wire that runs under the plastic housing that covers the manifold.

 

[hughespat57]

The plastic and metal piece over the manifold block is a part of the Mercathode anti corrosion system the wires power it
Take a good look at the drawing Bt Doctur posted you’ll see the “electrode” is in your way. You see the wires go inside and have some connectors try to disconnect them if cant follow them up and disconnect from the Mercathode control box on the engine. The wires are silicone sealed thru the block

 

[DWABoat]

Ruski1107 - your doing fine,
just keep working at getting some slack in the Mercathode wiring or find the connectors and get them apart.
And some slack in the hoses
The engine does not need to come out.

If the impact had been so hard as to throw you off your feet.
Or if there was any visible damage to the lower unit, prop, etc I would understand involving my insurance company and a professional mechanic.
However, I have a $500 deductible, if the insurance agreed to pay at all.
And any adjustor could easily say this is just neglected maintenance with no other visible damage.
Because this, so far, looks like corrosion weakened the block, which I pointed out in the very beginning was a possibility.

Why did I mention that the blocks fail up right up front?
Because I am a retired USCG Machinery Technician who has worked on plenty of Mercruisers.
An ASE certified Master Heavy Mechanic
An ASE certified Automotive Mechanic
And now a Senior Systems Engineer for IBM

A new block is $50, and yes a bit of work for a newbie, but he's learning
And that's what the forums are for
It's fine to point out insurance might cover it. Hell I need to remember that, I usually just jump it to getting it fixed.
And I'm 63 now. Time to let someone else do it if it's covered.

And I take no offense at the mechanic comments it goes both ways.
Mech: "Ma'm I don't know why your engine died."
Lady: "But you worked on it yesterday, it was fine before that"
Mech: "But Ma'm all we did was fix your wipers..."
real first hand conversation

First, thank you for your service to our country. Loads of respect.

I have been in many of those types of conversations, doing residential air conditioning service for twenty years. Change a relay in the outside unit and get blamed when the heater doesn’t work several months later!!!

As far as reputable mechanics, I completely agree there are many “parts swappers” out there who either don’t know how to diagnose a problem, or don’t want to take the time, so they just change parts until it stops. My comments about an ethical mechanic doing a thorough, quality job like this could have the engine out in about an hour, change the lines, check for other damage while in there, drop the engine back in and be done in one business day. As a business person, he shouldn’t just pull some lines and ship it out, ethically, if by doing so, he overlooks some other damage caused by the strike. In fact, it may even be less in labor costs for an experienced mechanic to just yank the motor, run new lines and manifold block, and drop the motor back in than dealing with rusted, corroded connectors and bolts. I guess it is a judgement call. I would not assume the mechanic is unethical solely by making that recommendation.

I hope he can do the job himself. I am cheering for him. I do everything I possibly can myself on my boat, which is usually everything, to keep from having to deal with boat mechanics.

Semper Paratus from a CPO!!!