The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

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Some more cringeworthy before pics but have faith! Bleach fixes all!!!!!

I am in Tampa Florida and rainy season is no joke so even alight leaks and then being left to sit are going to make a vessel a big moldy mess.
 
Since this was my friends boat, I had an opportunity to get hands on and do a little experimenting on how well.it.would.clean up and a lot of exploration to make sure she was a solid vessel. Everything rock solid structure wise on this boat with the exception of the engine hatch being a little soft and that is a super easy repair since the hatch can be unbolted and taken out of the boat.
An hour or so of cleaning got me to this point and made it obvious that she would clean up pretty darn good. Would she get perfect? Probably not, she is 20+ years old but I was really happy with how clean the cockpit got and once the hull was hit with pool chlorine and rinsed, all the natural grime came off and it seemed apparent that a good detailer could have her looking pretty good.

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Fast forward a bit and while the cockpit upholstery cleaned up well, a lot of the backing wood was rotted out and staples had fallen out. If, I were keeping the boat just for myself,.I'd have left it. But being that I was either planning to flip it or convince my WIFE that we should keep it and have 2 boats ( I have a 2019 sportsman 231 heritage center console) it would have to look too notch for my bougie wife! After getting a FANTASTIC price to do all the cockpit and cabin upholstery along with both bimini tops, the decision was easy, we would reupholster! Best decision ever! Really modernizes the styling and makes the boat like new. Frankly, these boats were pretty sterile and plain frommthe factory and just a second basic color and some diamond stitching really makes things pop without being over the top. On the rear bolster, the Sea Ray logo looks upside down. It is on the top of the bolster, not the front. It is right side up if you are coming up the swim platform into the boat. It probably should appear the other way since most people will be looking at it from inside the boat but for the great price I was given, this is something I can certainly live with.

My 3 year old absolute loves "the sleeping boat" and stupid me made the mistake of mentioning sleeping on it. I now get asked DAILY if we are going to sleep on it. If we end up flipping it, I definitely owe Capt BramBram one overnight trip! Admiral Mama is NOT about the sleeping on the boat life. Perhaps we make a trip to a hotel with a marina and get Mama a room in the hotel while we sleep in the boat!
 
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Wet Pleasure rides again! I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what to do with the motor situation. The boat came from factory with a 5.7. friend swapped out to a big block after 5.7 gave way after 15+ years but that big block failed in short order (bad mechanic from what we understand and frustration with that is part of why friend gave up on boat and sold to me cheap)

I had option for a fresh rebuilt 5.7 specced to produce 330hp installed which was quoted at 7k. Not bad, but a bit more than I wanted to spend. Was flirting with new 383 stroker but at 12k installed, again, expensive for a boat I'm probably not keeping very long. I began to scour the used market and rolled the dice on a low hour freshwater 7.4 "performance tuned" motor which really isn't any special tuning other than actually being designed for good mid range for cruisers. Seemed like a perfect fit. I got the motor for a shade over $3k shipped from central Texas. I paid another $2700 to have it installed which included a full run through of the motor, removal and full servicing of the outdrive. New seals, new gimbal bearing, new bellows, new steering pin, new drive pump and bracket, new sea pump impeller and a new starter as even though the one on the motor seemed fine, it's easy to replace when out of the boat and not too expensive of a part so we went for it. I also ordered new gauges and gauge panels from Flounder pounder. It's BS that 2 small acrylic panels cost $250 but there is no denying that they make the boat look new again so I just chalked it up to Busting Out Another Thousand! I wanted to replace the peanut pad with switches but that is $1500. I just couldn't justify that much right now
Sea trialed it with myself (280 lbs) and 4 guys from the mechanic shop so a pretty full load and we took her up to 34mph. We are going to baby her a bit and make sure things are kosher and then I hope to have some better numbers. Coming from a Center console, it's a slow boat but as I'm sure most of you know this vintage big block is only rated 300 hp or so and these are heavy boats. I took the boat to my local dump and my 2015 super crew f150 plus boat and trailer weighed in at 14,660 lbs and that was with a full tank of gas in the boat. Truck is 5000 lbs or so and I figure 1500 for the trailer puts this boat around 8000 lbs.
 
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I also have a 260 and live in the Tampa area. Who did your upholstery work?
Ivan Chirino, he speaks limited English but his price was great. Part of the great price was that I was not in a rush, I'm still waiting on him to do my bimini's but as you can see, I had my hands full with this boat so I told him take his time.and he gave me good price. Also gave me a great price to do the entire boat all at once.
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...Admiral Mama is NOT about the sleeping on the boat life.

Do your best to convince her. You won’t regret it.

Two years ago I towed mine from Northern Michigan to Key West for Christmas to New Years.

We spent two full weeks in City marina and went out fishing/cruising at least every other day. Only better vacation I ever had was first time to Hawaii.

We also had daughter and son-in-law onboard for first week. Can be a bit tight, but more than doable.
 
Do your best to convince her. You won’t regret it.

Two years ago I towed mine from Northern Michigan to Key West for Christmas to New Years.

We spent two full weeks in City marina and went out fishing/cruising at least every other day. Only better vacation I ever had was first time to Hawaii.

We also had daughter and son-in-law onboard for first week. Can be a bit tight, but more than doable.

With today's progress on the cabin carpet overhaul, I'm hoping she will come around to it. Here in tampa so many great options. We have a nature preserve at Caladesi Island that is a short jaunt from Clearwater where you can dock and hook up to shore power and water but also have nearby bathrooms/showers, picnic pavilions with outdoor grills etc so the boat is simply for sleeping in at that point. Then obviously I can cruise down the coast to Anna maria island, bradenton and sarasota, fort myers, and Naples pretty easily.
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Dennis and Robin
I want to thank you for the information on this. Seattleite and I have become friends and I've helped him get acclimated to his new to him 2002 260DA. It's a very nice, clean and well kept boat. He found a great one.
Anyway I just installed a Clarion M303 head unit and XMD1 remote. I used a glowstick to pull the new remote cable through from stereo cabinet to the engine bay. The factory remote was routed this way also. I didn't have to take any of the mid-cabin apart. I just removed most of the silicone sealant, ran the glowstick in and pulled back the new remote extension cable. I then ran it across the engine bay bulkhead, zip tying it along the way and drilled a new hole above the other group of wires and sealed it all back up on both sides with new silicone.

It turned out great and the remote does fit on the helm. I had to redrill the main panel though to remove the recessed pocket and allow the 3" dia base to set flush.

Panel partially removed.



I drilled the hole offset with a 3" hole saw to the right of the recessed pocket. This aligned the 3" hole in the panel to the 3" hole already in the helm.


Back view of the remote installed


Done


Now I think I'll be doing this on my boat. I was impressed with the Bluetooth capabilities of the stereo. It worked great.
How did you get the silicone out? I'm afraid i'll cut a wire on accident in the process.

Did you seal it back up after you pulled the wire through?
 
View attachment 98637 View attachment 98638 View attachment 98639 View attachment 98640 View attachment 98641 View attachment 98642 View attachment 98643Wet Pleasure rides again! I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what to do with the motor situation. The boat came from factory with a 5.7. friend swapped out to a big block after 5.7 gave way after 15+ years but that big block failed in short order (bad mechanic from what we understand and frustration with that is part of why friend gave up on boat and sold to me cheap)

I had option for a fresh rebuilt 5.7 specced to produce 330hp installed which was quoted at 7k. Not bad, but a bit more than I wanted to spend. Was flirting with new 383 stroker but at 12k installed, again, expensive for a boat I'm probably not keeping very long. I began to scour the used market and rolled the dice on a low hour freshwater 7.4 "performance tuned" motor which really isn't any special tuning other than actually being designed for good mid range for cruisers. Seemed like a perfect fit. I got the motor for a shade over $3k shipped from central Texas. I paid another $2700 to have it installed which included a full run through of the motor, removal and full servicing of the outdrive. New seals, new gimbal bearing, new bellows, new steering pin, new drive pump and bracket, new sea pump impeller and a new starter as even though the one on the motor seemed fine, it's easy to replace when out of the boat and not too expensive of a part so we went for it. I also ordered new gauges and gauge panels from Flounder pounder. It's BS that 2 small acrylic panels cost $250 but there is no denying that they make the boat look new again so I just chalked it up to Busting Out Another Thousand! I wanted to replace the peanut pad with switches but that is $1500. I just couldn't justify that much right now
Sea trialed it with myself (280 lbs) and 4 guys from the mechanic shop so a pretty full load and we took her up to 34mph. We are going to baby her a bit and make sure things are kosher and then I hope to have some better numbers. Coming from a Center console, it's a slow boat but as I'm sure most of you know this vintage big block is only rated 300 hp or so and these are heavy boats. I took the boat to my local dump and my 2015 super crew f150 plus boat and trailer weighed in at 14,660 lbs and that was with a full tank of gas in the boat. Truck is 5000 lbs or so and I figure 1500 for the trailer puts this boat around 8000 lbs.

While that engine looks very clean I would investigate the need for a riser block between the exhaust manifold and the elbow. I believe your current setup is too low and with make the engine subject to water inversion because of this. If this happens you will hydro-lock the engine and be shopping for a new one again. I think these boats had a 3" spacer to get the required height - I know my 2003 260DA with a 5.0MPI did when I owned her.

-Kevin
 
While that engine looks very clean I would investigate the need for a riser block between the exhaust manifold and the elbow. I believe your current setup is too low and with make the engine subject to water inversion because of this. If this happens you will hydro-lock the engine and be shopping for a new one again. I think these boats had a 3" spacer to get the required height - I know my 2003 260DA with a 5.0MPI did when I owned her.

-Kevin
The old engine had it, I asked the mechanic about it and they said it was good. I'm going to get a second opinion. Visually it seems well above the waterline but I don't know what the proper distance is supposed to be. I'm an outboard guy.
 
09-604 wiring diagram for Cabin Harness. 2000-2004 260 Sundancer. Anyone ever find this? I have the supplemental manual for this boat with lots of wire diagrams. It references this page but is not included. I'm wondering if anyone has this. I'm going to call the local dealer Monday. Same issue with 09-950 Main DC Breaker Panel wire diagram.
 
While that engine looks very clean I would investigate the need for a riser block between the exhaust manifold and the elbow. I believe your current setup is too low and with make the engine subject to water inversion because of this. If this happens you will hydro-lock the engine and be shopping for a new one again. I think these boats had a 3" spacer to get the required height - I know my 2003 260DA with a 5.0MPI did when I owned her.

-Kevin
So I took some measurements. If you look at the pic and on the floor of the bilge where the wd40 can is, if that is considered waterline level, I have about 20 inches to the top of the riser. so if the water line was a full 6" higher than that, I'd still be at 14". I also searched through every listing i could find on boat trader that had pics of the engine bay. None of the boats for sale had 454s in them so couldn't get an apples to apples comparison. all of the 5.0 and 5.7s did have spacers in them but when i looked at their height, it was nowhere near as high as the old motor in this boat had them which was almost up to the deck. So based on that I think I'm in good shape here but there was certainly no harm in double checking! In fact, thank you for this because when i opened up the engine hatch to take the measurement, I discovered the drive lube reservoir completely empty!!!! Back to the mechanic!!! Fortunately, aside from the sea trial we did last week, I haven't run the boat yet. I did run it on muffs for 5 minutes or so once this week.

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The fun continued this weekend as my new decals arrived. The logo is slightly different than what came stock and it's significantly larger. Not a big deal, had it been an exact match, I would have placed it exactly where the old one was. Being a little larger, it does a good job of masking the outlines in the gel coat from the old ones. I also removed the pinstriping up on the gunnels as most of them were in rough shape. The real fun began when I decided the area where the logos are would be my experiment with wet sanding. I used some 1200 grit, followed by meguiars heavy cut compound and starbrite marine polish. I got those sections truly shining like new which has been escaping me for weeks!!!! So of course I went down the rabbit hole of wet sanding. Today I did the entire starboard side starting with 800 grit, then stepping up to 1500. On the stern, I did an additional pass with 2000 grit. Tomorrow I will compound and polish and see if it's worth going up to 2000 on the entire hull... This is a massive amount of labor for one person with all these steps. But I also imagine any detailer worth his salt would be charging close to $1000 so this is worth it. It will also be motivation to keep the hull waxed and never let it get this bad
 
Okay getting my 260 cleaned up I decided to install LED light strip. I wanted to know should I put it top or bottom (see arrows) also if you got LED light strip already installed where did you put it, and tips or tricks?
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Okay getting my 260 cleaned up I decided to install LED light strip. I wanted to know should I put it top or bottom (see arrows) also if you got LED light strip already installed where did you put it, and tips or tricks?
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That crick water you're dinking is making my vision blurry just looking at it.
 

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