The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

Here's what I do all the time. The video isn't great, but you'll get the idea. You can also see how smoothly mine opens. Just click on the picture and the video will start.
 
I just purchased a 99 in mid-August and am currently in the process of winterizing. Any of you experts have tips on how to remove the connectors on the water lines without completely undoing the thread?
 
jdcsati said:
I just purchased a 99 in mid-August and am currently in the process of winterizing. Any of you experts have tips on how to remove the connectors on the water lines without completely undoing the thread?
Click to expand...

As stated in the other thread you started on this subject, you unthread the water lines from the hot water tank, and then buy some fittings and a piece of hose from Lowes and make a by-pass. This is how I do it.
 
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to remove the water lines from couplings. Remove grey clip, push towards connector and pull line out.
 
For those of you that have ever removed their drives do you recall the position of the "celery" stick.
After having my engine removed I finally got it out on the water today and noticed that the drive won't trim as far down as it used to. I have the stick in the aft position now which is the position indicated in the manual for a bravo III. I can't recall what position it was in when I removed it.

On the plus side the boat was perfect, no oil, water or coolant in the bilge after having it on the water all day.
 
Westie said:
For those of you that have ever removed their drives do you recall the position of the "celery" stick.
After having my engine removed I finally got it out on the water today and noticed that the drive won't trim as far down as it used to. I have the stick in the aft position now which is the position indicated in the manual for a bravo III. I can't recall what position it was in when I removed it.

On the plus side the boat was perfect, no oil, water or coolant in the bilge after having it on the water all day.
Click to expand...
That 'celery stick' or spacer is usually toward the rear of the oblong hole on B3, I don't know about the other Bravos right off hand.
 
Westie said:
For those of you that have ever removed their drives do you recall the position of the "celery" stick.
After having my engine removed I finally got it out on the water today and noticed that the drive won't trim as far down as it used to. I have the stick in the aft position now which is the position indicated in the manual for a bravo III. I can't recall what position it was in when I removed it.

On the plus side the boat was perfect, no oil, water or coolant in the bilge after having it on the water all day.
Click to expand...

Are you basing this strictly on what the gauge is telling you? The trim sender on the side on the side of the drive controls the gauge and you can easily adjust that in about 2 minutes.

But, with the stick in the fwd position, it will allow the drive to tuck in to it's maximum. Visually check the operation of the drive, too.

FYI, where the stick is positioned is 'typically' (or should be) determined more by the boat the drive is attached to, rather than the type of drive. You can put it in either position.
 
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It was based on the trim gauge that wasn't touched during the drive removal but also on the performance of the boat. While getting up on plane the bow was higher than normal.
I'm going to change it so the stick is in the forward position.

Thanks for the feedback.
 
Hey Todd...sink covers...did you get enough interest to make a run of these? If so, I'd be interested in one for my '01 260DA.

Dan
 
Westie said:
It was based on the trim gauge that wasn't touched during the drive removal but also on the performance of the boat. While getting up on plane the bow was higher than normal.
I'm going to change it so the stick is in the forward position.

Thanks for the feedback.
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Sounds like a plan, Stan! :smt001
 
The sink water goes go the sump?? Not on my '01 260DA. One of the first things I did after purchasing her was treat the fresh water holding tank and ran water into the intake with the sink valves open. All that funky sulpheric old water drained out through the through hull fitting overboard. What am I missing here??
 
Okay, nevermind. I've read all 64 pages now and I think this issue was settled. What a great resource for us newbies!
 
dannygodeep said:
Hey Todd...sink covers...did you get enough interest to make a run of these? If so, I'd be interested in one for my '01 260DA.

Dan
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I'd need to make at least 20 to make it worth it. I don't think I've heard anywhere close to that many interested.
 
Dave S said:
I'll still drop in here from time to time just to keep an eye on everyone. :wow::smt043
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Hey Dave,

It looks like you've been moving up. I was originally looking at a 240 but fell in love with the 260, and just bought a beautiful 2005 with only 140 freshwater hours. How do you think the two boats compare?
 
Any one add radar to their 260/ I'm thinking about putting in a Garmin GPS Map 1020xs with a GMR xHD Radome. This is the arch I'm thinking of adding http://www.fishonsports.com/140.html

The biggest issue is finding a good spot to mount the screen. The only place it really fits on on the dash. Mounting it there will block off the view of half the gauges so I would mount a second 8" HDMI monitor beside it and move all the gauge information to it. I'd use a beaglebone black board with my own cape to do the gauges. Once I wrote the software to do all the gauges on monitor I'd also write the software to add things like an anchor rode counter and a auto trim tab controller. I'll even add a NEMA interface and a can controller for future expansion capabilities.
 
Hi guys, I was wondering what line works best in our windless. Three strand twisted, braided, mega braid Etc. And how much you carry with you. Thanks for the help just getting ready for summer can't wait.
 
I have three strand on mine. I think it is the original that came with the boat. The only issue I've had with slipping is at the chain / rope splice. The swapped the rope end for end and redid the splice and the first time I did it I think I got it too tight and the slice was too stiff to go through the windless when bringing up the anchor. Once I redid it with a bit looser of a splice I haven't had any issues. I have about 30 feet of chain and 150 feet of rope. Most times I'm anchoring in 30 feet or less of water. I think there is more room in the locker if you needed to go longer than that.
One of the projects on my list is to make a rode counter so I know exactly how much rode I've got out.
 
Westie said:
I have three strand on mine. I think it is the original that came with the boat. The only issue I've had with slipping is at the chain / rope splice. The swapped the rope end for end and redid the splice and the first time I did it I think I got it too tight and the slice was too stiff to go through the windless when bringing up the anchor. Once I redid it with a bit looser of a splice I haven't had any issues. I have about 30 feet of chain and 150 feet of rope. Most times I'm anchoring in 30 feet or less of water. I think there is more room in the locker if you needed to go longer than that.
One of the projects on my list is to make a rode counter so I know exactly how much rode I've got out.
Click to expand...

That's what I have with the problem at the splice. I would like to carry around 250 300ft. A friend of mine says to use mega braid because it goes through the windless better and lays flat in the locker. It's pricy so want to do some research first.
 
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