The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

Dennis you may be right because there are a ton of wires running from port to starboard...
I will be installing a transom mounted drive tilt switch this weekend and may take some additional pictures.
This is from in front of the engine looking towards the engine bay front bulkhead starboard side. Who knows what's in the two looms?
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If you've never done a transom tilt switch... wait until you see how easy it is:grin:. If you don't already have the switch, all you need to know is whether you have a round connector at the pump or a square/flat connector. Those are the only two styles.

Pictures are much easier to understand than my typing! :smt001
 
Lazy Daze said:
If you've never done a transom tilt switch... wait until you see how easy it is:grin:. If you don't already have the switch, all you need to know is whether you have a round connector at the pump or a square/flat connector. Those are the only two styles.

Pictures are much easier to understand than my typing! :smt001
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Yeah the problem is the switch they sold me is the opposite of the new pump I have so I'll have to splice it I fear.
 
Yeah guys, I put that transom mounted switch in earlier this year. As Dennis said - very easy install. Finding the right mounting location took me longer than anything else. My only problem with it is that after installing it as designed - I still have to climb up in the boat to turn the main battery switch off after I park the trailer in the shed and drop the lower unit. I am thinking about re-wiring the power supply side of the switch directly to one of my battery banks.
 
Nehalennia said:
Yeah the problem is the switch they sold me is the opposite of the new pump I have so I'll have to splice it I fear.
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Is the Merc dealer too far away from you to go get the other one? Not that splicing is bad, but obviously if you can avoid it, that's better.
 
rabyers1 said:
Yeah guys, I put that transom mounted switch in earlier this year. As Dennis said - very easy install. Finding the right mounting location took me longer than anything else. My only problem with it is that after installing it as designed - I still have to climb up in the boat to turn the main battery switch off after I park the trailer in the shed and drop the lower unit. I am thinking about re-wiring the power supply side of the switch directly to one of my battery banks.
Click to expand...

Would that cause anything else to become "live", as well? Just a thought - I don't know, myself.
 
I am going to mount it on the vertical ridge that is below the entry to the transom door but off to the port side so it's less likely to be stepped on.
 
Went out to check the progress on my 383 MAG install this afternoon. Really went to do some final bilge cleaning before the motor actually gets dropped in as the install has been delayed waiting on exhaust system parts. The motor came with the new style exhaust manifolds, which had a lower amount of rise than those on my old 5.7 by about an inch. So, had to wait for 1" spacers to be shipped. The good news is that those new style manifolds and risers don't have the water jackets surrounding the exhaust ports inside the casting. Instead they use external hoses to route the cooling water for the exhaust components. I guess this takes away those gasket failure points where manifold meets riser and riser meets elbow.
 
rabyers1 said:
Went out to check the progress on my 383 MAG install this afternoon. Really went to do some final bilge cleaning before the motor actually gets dropped in as the install has been delayed waiting on exhaust system parts. The motor came with the new style exhaust manifolds, which had a lower amount of rise than those on my old 5.7 by about an inch. So, had to wait for 1" spacers to be shipped. The good news is that those new style manifolds and risers don't have the water jackets surrounding the exhaust ports inside the casting. Instead they use external hoses to route the cooling water for the exhaust components. I guess this takes away those gasket failure points where manifold meets riser and riser meets elbow.
Click to expand...

You have to take and post more pictures!
 
Would that cause anything else to become "live", as well? Just a thought - I don't know, myself.
Click to expand...

I don't think so, but that is certainly something to keep in mind.
 
rabyers1 said:
Went out to check the progress on my 383 MAG install this afternoon.
Click to expand...

I no longer like you.... :grin:

Just kidding, of course. Actually, I'm very jealous!

In all honesty, I hope the install goes well. Good luck!
 
Oh, RAB, while you're in there - don't forget to check the condition of the grounding wire on the garboard drain plug.
 
Todd - you are right. Unfortunately the Admiral left our camera in the stroller and tried to fold it up at the fair in the dark a couple of weeks back and - crush! So, we just got a new body for it today. Pictures coming soon.
 
rabyers1 said:
Todd - you are right. Unfortunately the Admiral left our camera in the stroller and tried to fold it up at the fair in the dark a couple of weeks back and - crush! So, we just got a new body for it today. Pictures coming soon.
Click to expand...

Excuses excuses.... you know we need to see the step by step of the flaming air shroud being installed.
 
Dennis, I rigged up a new seat tensioner as well. It's only a temporary one. I couldn't use the rest of the rod/knob I had because the rod is too short and knob is too big so it hits the seat. So I used a plastic knob with 5/16 threaded insert and a 5/16 bolt. I cut the bolt pretty short so the new knob doesn't extend to the appolstery portion of the seat at all. The knob, as made, was too big so I made it smaller on a belt sander by grinding off the ends until it would fit. It's not pretty, but a good prototype for a final design. I can't imagine leaving a knob like the original one sticking out. I would have black and blue shins all of the time given how much I bump into things.

Also, thanks for more clues. I have all of the original and downloaded wiring diagrams too, but they don't show were every single wire goes. I think you're right about the remote wire going into the bilge area. I also think I'm going to need an extension as 20' isn't going to cut it with that route.... sigh...

I tell you that this boat is a pleasure to work on though. The speaker wires had little number labels on them that corresponded to the wiring diagrams.. so there was zero confusion on what wires went to what speakers. Made installing the head unit a piece of cake.

I guess next thing I'll do is attack the dash while I wait for an extension cable. The original remote for the clarion only had a 2" hole and this one needs a 3". There is room in the area so it shouldn't be an issue. I think I'll have to take off the wood grain trim, and figure out how to cut it separately (so as not to damage it) from the underlying plywood frame.
 
Theresamarie11 said:
Dennis, I rigged up a new seat tensioner as well. It's only a temporary one. I couldn't use the rest of the rod/knob I had because the rod is too short and knob is too big so it hits the seat. So I used a plastic knob with 5/16 threaded insert and a 5/16 bolt. I cut the bolt pretty short so the new knob doesn't extend to the appolstery portion of the seat at all. The knob, as made, was too big so I made it smaller on a belt sander by grinding off the ends until it would fit. It's not pretty, but a good prototype for a final design. I can't imagine leaving a knob like the original one sticking out. I would have black and blue shins all of the time given how much I bump into things.

Also, thanks for more clues. I have all of the original and downloaded wiring diagrams too, but they don't show were every single wire goes. I think you're right about the remote wire going into the bilge area. I also think I'm going to need an extension as 20' isn't going to cut it with that route.... sigh...

I tell you that this boat is a pleasure to work on though. The speaker wires had little number labels on them that corresponded to the wiring diagrams.. so there was zero confusion on what wires went to what speakers. Made installing the head unit a piece of cake.

I guess next thing I'll do is attack the dash while I wait for an extension cable. The original remote for the clarion only had a 2" hole and this one needs a 3". There is room in the area so it shouldn't be an issue. I think I'll have to take off the wood grain trim, and figure out how to cut it separately (so as not to damage it) from the underlying plywood frame.
Click to expand...

Take pictures too
 
Is the transom tilt switch to make loading the boat on a trailer easier?

Joe and I are currently enjoying lounging on our 260 while slipped at our marina (still having some engine issues). Have to love the 1999-2004 cockpit layout!

Nehalennia said:
Dennis you may be right because there are a ton of wires running from port to starboard...
I will be installing a transom mounted drive tilt switch this weekend and may take some additional pictures.
This is from in front of the engine looking towards the engine bay front bulkhead starboard side. Who knows what's in the two looms?
Click to expand...
 
Our Serenity said:
Is the transom tilt switch to make loading the boat on a trailer easier?

Joe and I are currently enjoying lounging on our 260 while slipped at our marina (still having some engine issues). Have to love the 1999-2004 cockpit layout!
Click to expand...

It has a couple of uses. A few that I can think of off the top of my head:

When trailering, I use those "trailering clips" or "spacers" - they snap onto the trim cylinder rams to prevent the drive from falling should the hydraulic lines give out while trailering. Ideally, you should tilt the drive all the way up (which you would have done after loading onto the trailer), then clip these on, then snug the drive down a bit to keep the clips from coming off. It's kind of pain to do by yourself if you have to keep jumping in and out of the boat. Even if using two people it's a pain -- "A little more, a little more... STOP!... OK, a little more..."

If you're doing drive maintenance while on the trailer.

If you're in the water and you realize you want the drive up or down - you don't have to get all the way back in the boat.
 
Improved Seat Tensioner

OK, here's my attempt at a better knob. It's not pretty, but it'll do. Besides, it's hidden away pretty good.

I used a 1-1/2" hole saw to cut a plug that ended up being approx 1-1/4" out of some 1/2" Starboard. I cut the black knob completely off the original tensioner and cut threads to about 2-1/4". The little "ridges" (albeit, poorly done) were done with a Dremel cut-off tool. The hole in the middle of the new knob is slightly undersized so that it threads onto the brass rod. Then, I just sandwiched it tightly with two SS nuts. Locking nuts would be better - just didn't have any on hand.

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Easy peasy - get's the job done. Black Starboard would be nicer as it won't show dirt. Oh well, wasn't about to buy a piece just for that. :smt001

Maybe I'll put a cap nut (acorn) on the end - just to make it look a little nicer.
 
Dennis I'd be worried that exposed thread will make a nice slice in someone's leg. I ordered a new one when mine wasn't in place when I bought the boat.


On the transom switch, I want to have one because when I need to back the boat into the garage I need to drop the leg so it fits inside. Climbing in to do that get's old.

I didn't get that done this weekend as I got caught up in the football games. UW(my team) over USC and right now the Seahawks playing S.F.
 
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