The official '99-'04 260DA Sundancer thread

Practice carefully driving on. It really saves time and as long as you've lined up level your good to go. Get the top of the front fender on your trailer just level with the surface of the water. I cut the winch post down to about 6" of the winch. It's hard to tell with Luke standing there, but the post is below his shoulder.
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GREAT! I'm already jealous about the 383, now I'm jealous about that huge boat shed! Mine's in my driveway - with about 2 feet to spare to the street. I'd like to someday at least move it to the side of my house and build a covered car port for it. Do you think my kids won't mind not going to college?:smt001

Todd, what else do you keep in there? Or, is it just that big in anticipation of the next boat?
 
Lazy Daze said:
GREAT! .....Todd, what else do you keep in there? Or, is it just that big in anticipation of the next boat?
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Nothing right now. I was considering making a loft above it with one of those fold down attic ladder, but front to back she only has about 6" to clear. It's about 5 minutes from home and has worked out very well. I have power there but no water, so all of the clean up happens at home and then I take her there, plug in power so the batter charger is on and tuck her in and I'm back home in 5 minutes.
 
rabyers1 said:
Terri,

I have taken my anchor off the rode and keep it stowed with my stern anchor except when in use. ...... That is why I have purchased a Powerwinch. I will report the results after I get it mounted in a couple of weeks.
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Yea, I was thinking of this (removing anchor) but Chris has told me each time he's got it,....as the anchor clinks and clanks... so far no damage to the anchor but I worry about ripping the roller guide off the boat. :smt009

On the winch, interested to hear how this works. One thing I would worry about is ripping the eye out of the boat because you don't know the pressure being applied? Like your situation, the sounds is dreadful.
 
Theresamarie11 said:
One thing I would worry about is ripping the eye out of the boat because you don't know the pressure being applied? Like your situation, the sounds is dreadful.
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Don't worry about the eye coming out. It won't.
 
This is probably part of our issue in loading. See the split bunks.. not very long in total. I assume you guys have full length solid bunks.

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Yeah, that's certainly not spreading the weight out very well. I have something very similar to what you have - but just up in the front (rollers in back). My bunks are little further forward, though. In my case, those are called "centering" bunks, but they do still take a lot of the weight.

It's not hard to redesign what you have. Without even getting new hardware, just get (4) long 2x10's, scabbard 2 together for each side and run them between the front and rear supports. You'd then have (1) long bunk on each side. You may need to cut an angle on the top of these new bunks to match your hull - depends on the angle that the hardware sits them at. Just get close, doesn't have to be as perfect as one might think.

Instead of carpet, attach some bunk glide-ons. Paint the wood black, if you want, just for looks.

ON EDIT: Although, I'd try and find some hardware to support the height of the 2x10's a little better. Even what you have, it looks as though the bunks aren't supported very well and they could bend/break/lean towards the center of the trailer. They should be supported higher up.

If you need help with hardware, let me know. I can help you with that. But, try Tie Down. If they don't have what you need, I can get pieces from my trailer suppliers. What you're looking for is hardware that goes further up the sides of the bunks.

This should explain it a little better: http://www.venturetrailers.com/bunk.html#
 
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I could be wrong Dennis, but the venture bunks (you're link) look like they're supported even less. So you think 2 2x10s scabbed together is the right size to bear the load better? Also, why did they do this articulating bunk system in the first place? Is a better solution to put a 3rd cross member and another (3rd) set of articulating bunks?
 
Terri, take a look at the VBT10800. On that one, there are (3) supports for each bunk. But, depending on the distance between your two crossmembers, (2) supports may be fine. If the distance is a bit longer, then I'd put (3) 2x10's together and not worry about needing (3) supports. If your trailer is correct for the boat, then it's already designed to hold the weight in (4) places, no reason to add a third crossmember. Be sure to use Grade 8 bolts for where the bolt that goes through the bunk. Probably doesn't need them, but better safe than sorry.

The main thing I showed you that link for was to point out how the bracket that attaches to the bunk is taller. It's hard to tell from that picture, but the bracket goes about half-way up the bunk. Maybe yours does, too - I couldn't tell from the pic.

But, yes, the 10" dimension of the 2x10 is plenty sufficient. Sure, it won't hurt to go to 2x12's, but that's just making the boat sit higher - which means backing the trailer even further into the water.

ON EDIT: Actually, upon looking at that pic a little better, you may be able to scrap that horizontal piece of metal and just use the upright.
 
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Dennis, thanks for the clarification. I think the bunks are supported pretty well, although I'm not sure they are currently 2x10s, they might be 2x8s. I was thinking there might be stacked 4x4s under the carpet but that probably doesn't make sense from a stability/strength standpoint once I think about it. Scabbed 2x8s are probably more likely. I'm going to do some measuring tonight and look at slides. I've seen two kinds of slides. One kind that comes in pieces, and another that comes in long continuous strips (white). I am not excited about either as they seem to have recessed bolts/screws (that will eventually work their way out and destory the boat bottom.
 
Theresamarie11 said:
Dennis, thanks for the clarification. I think the bunks are supported pretty well, although I'm not sure they are currently 2x10s, they might be 2x8s. I was thinking there might be stacked 4x4s under the carpet but that probably doesn't make sense from a stability/strength standpoint once I think about it. Scabbed 2x8s are probably more likely. I'm going to do some measuring tonight and look at slides. I've seen two kinds of slides. One kind that comes in pieces, and another that comes in long continuous strips (white). I am not excited about either as they seem to have recessed bolts/screws (that will eventually work their way out and destory the boat bottom.
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I guess what I meant about your current support is it looks like the 2x8's are only supported about 2" up from the bottom. But maybe the pic is deceiving.

I agree about the slicks. The ones I used screw on from the sides because they wrap around. But, those are for 2x6's.

Did you look at Tie Down's site? I thought they had wrap arounds that are meant for 2x4's. Also, there are the ones that Venture has.
 
Thanks Dennis again for comments. I just measured the boards and they're not 2x8s which is why they look poorly supported. The stack is only 5-5.25 x 3.25 inches (I'm estimating the thickness of the carpet a bit). So my guess is that I have scabbed 2x6's in there and each section is only 4' long for a total of 8' of support. Doesn't sound good. For the 5" height, the stack is 50% supported at 2.5".
 
Theresamarie11 said:
For the 5" height, the stack is 50% supported at 2.5".
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Oh, OK. That sounds alright then. Tell 'ya what, though. Looking at that pic again, it appears as though there's a gap of about 4' between the two bunks. I keep coming back to putting (2) 2x10's (probably 12' would do it) together and eliminating that horizontal metal support. Just drop the 2x's right onto the crossmember. Add the bunk glides and I believe that trailer will load much easier.
 
Guys, on the factory installed trim tabs. They seem a bit undersized per the guidelines on the site.
Also, I've been trying to learn how to use them appropriately and I do notice when we're in quartering seas, I don't seem to have enough tab to level the boat out, or raise the side that's taking the wind.

I am wondering if anyone has made changes here and put on larger tabs and what improvement this makes.

In calm water, the tabs work fine, or going directly into the wind. In fact, in calm water we hardly use them except for very fine adjustment for loading.

I currently have 11" wide and 12" long bennett tabs.
 
Terri
I haven't measured mine but assume they're the same. I haven't enountered a situation where I've felt they're aren't effective. In rougher water I've left them relatively along except leveling the boat into the wind and haven't seen too much of an issue. I'm not sure I'd want to go bigger, just continue to practice what affects what with a combination of drive attitude and tabs postion.
 
Ditto to what Todd said.

According to the Bennett website, I think you're correct that they recommend larger tabs. But I really don't see the need - truthfully, I don't understand how the heck they come up with their recommendations.
 
Lazy Daze said:
Ditto to what Todd said.

According to the Bennett website, I think you're correct that they recommend larger tabs. But I really don't see the need - truthfully, I don't understand how the heck they come up with their recommendations.
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Thanks guys, what I think I need to do is check the deflection then. Maybe I'm not getting full deflection. Come to think of it, when I test drove a 2004 with mag, the trim tabs had a much more dramatic effect than i've ever felt on our boat.. Another mystery to solve.
 
OK - Finally the 383 is in and running! They finished the install, cleaned up the grease, got the boat in the water and took it for an initial test run during the day today. I was able to dash up there after work (stuck in a board meeting all afternoon - it was killing me) to get out for a very short run before darkness set in. I will be back up there tomorrow for a more thorough shakedown cruise and to bring the boat back home. My initial impression was - AWESOME. There is a definite difference in the response and the feel of the throttle. The boat literally flops on to plane, without any of the laboring sensation I had with the old motor. This was with about 70% throttle, lower unit down and tabs fully up. The 390 lbs of torque really pushes the boat thru the water.

We took it up to 5,000 RPM for just a brief moment and the GPS reading was 45.7 MPH. Ran it for a little longer period at 4,400 RPM and was getting a steady 40.9 MPH on the GPS there. Early impression is that I have added about 6 MPH to the top end with this motor. My mechanic says he thinks I may see a couple of ticks more as the motor loosens up a bit. Unfortunately I only had about twenty minutes on the water and lost about 5 of it in the no-wake zone, so I didn't have a chance to get much of a handle on the cruising characteristics. I will work on that tomorrow.
 
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rabyers1 said:
OK - Finally the 383 is in and running! They finished the install, cleaned up the grease, got the boat in the water and took it for an initial test run during the day today. I was able to dash up there after work (stuck in a board meeting all afternoon - it was killing me) to get out for a very short run before darkness set in. I will be back up there tomorrow for a more thorough shakedown cruise and to bring the boat back home. My initial impression was - AWESOME. There is a definite difference in the response and the feel of the throttle. The boat literally flops on to plane, without any of the laboring sensation I had with the old motor. This was with about 70% throttle, lower unit down and tabs fully up. The 390 lbs of torque really pushes the boat thru the water.

We took it up to 5,000 RPM for just a brief moment and the GPS reading was 45.7 MPH. Ran it for a little longer period at 4,400 RPM and was getting a steady 40.9 MPH on the GPS there. Early impression is that I have added about 6 MPH to the top end with this motor. My mechanic says he thinks I may see a couple of ticks more as the motor loosens up a bit. Unfortunately I only had about twenty minutes on the water and lost about 5 of it in the no-wake zone, so I didn't have a chance to get much of a handle on the cruising characteristics. I will work on that tomorrow.
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Awesome!:smt001 Sounds like it's all coming together nicely for you. Don't forget the new engine room pics!
 
rabyers1 said:
OK - Finally the 383 is in ....
We took it up to 5,000 RPM for just a brief moment and the GPS reading was 45.7 MPH. Ran it for a little longer period at 4,400 RPM and was getting a steady 40.9 MPH on the GPS there.
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Wow, this looks like a great replacement for the 7.4L with B3. I have been up to 45.x mph with ours (7.4) and feel there might be a bit more to go, but not much I suspect. Having RPM range to 5000 gets you a nice kicker.

I suspect you're using a 22 pitch prop? On the 7.4L we're using a 24p prop. I wonder what yours would do with the 24p?

Be interesting, once you've got it broken in, what kind of efficiency you get.
 
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