The great Amberjack Anchor mystery

2001amberjack29

New Member
Jan 5, 2013
14
Dana Point, CA
Boat Info
2001 Amberjack 29'
Engines
Mercruiser 5L EFIs
Hi All

Excuse the newbieness. As my username implies, I'm the proud new owner of a 29' 2001 AJ. It's in pretty good shape aft of the anchor locker, but a real mess therein. Clearly that function wasn't used much. The first sign was the detached anchor was in the anchor locker. The rhode had a horrible splice, that wouldn't fit through the panama canal, let alone a windlass. I had that redone professionally and it now fits through the gypsy great. The next finding was no power on the windlass motor(Lofrans Marlin), after some detective work, I concluded it's the ground pin that broke from the armature (probably due to the anchor hitting the cables). I removed that whole assembly from the anchor box (a real PITA), and a few $$ later that is now running like a champ. When I finally attached the anchor, I realized my struggle is still not over: the anchor is I got with the boat is too big !!

The previous owner admitted to having bought the boat without an anchor, and adding his own (the white one pictured). anchor small.jpg

The problem is when fully retracted on the chain the tip of the anchor hits the bow's fiberglass. At 30kts this is bound to do some damage. It almost seems as if the "anchor guide" (my name for the stainless channel with two rollers) is just too short to make it work with typical anchors for a 30' boat.

Looking at a couple 27' and 29' Sundancers moored right next to me, the odd thing is their anchors and anchor guides are near identical pieces, except in one detail; the angle. On the Amberjack the deck is practically horizontal, and the anchor guide is mounted a little recessed. On the Sundancers, the decks are slanted, and the anchor guide sticks out more over the tip of the bow. Anchors are basically similar sizes and shapes. But they have at least 4" clearance, where I have none. The top of the anchor (where the chain attaches) also seems to ride up on mine, whereas it lies flat on the others.

I tried 4 anchors, they all have the same problem: the tip contacts my bow before the anchor is secured against the front bow roller. I've tried three plows from 15lb to 35lbs, as well as an aluminum fluke - all within the recommend size for ~24-30ft yachts. Although I can see with some modification to the anchor guide how I can make them all fit, I feel it's wrong to change the boat to match the anchor. But for the life of me I can't seem to find any anchor in the recommended size that works on this assembly.

So what's the secret ? What is the original anchor on the 2001 AJ 29' ? And can I still find it ?

More pics at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xvs4le6w5pb9ukl/1U2MWsjoD6. Couldn't figure out how to post more to this thread yet.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Nicol
 
The OEM Anchor is a Kodiak, that being said there is a thread where people have had success with the stainless anchors on ebay.
 
Here is the original brochure with a pretty good picture of what its supposed to look like. Hard to tell without some sort of scale, but either your anchor is too big, you chute too short, or the chute is installed too far aft.

http://searay.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/company1731/8484_f.pdf

Looks to me like the chute is too short compared to the one in Sea Ray's pic.
 
Search for Kodiak. I went through anchor replacement on my 290DA almost two years ago. I have a thread or post with the phone number for Kodiak and, by looking online at the SR manuals, you can get the original part number, and then call Kodiak for the correct anchor. Let me know if you can't find it.
 
Thanks all for the feedback. I searched the archive here and found the phone number etc for Kodiak. I'll quote. I also found several threads where guys replaced the Kodiak with other brands, notably a stainless anchor e.g. http://www.marinepartdepot.com/wibeshau28.html (also sold on http://www.ebay.com/usr/marine_parts_depot) for about $300 (1/3rd of Kodiak's SS price), which is actually local to me in SoCal. Although all the threads lauded the bling value and low price of the SS anchor above, it wasn't very clear if the fit the chute's roller well or if the ride up and connect the bow like the ones I tried.

Can anyone with a SS anchor from Marinepartdepot please confirm it fit's the OEM Kodiak chutes well ?

Thanks much
 
just by looking that launcher looks more like one for a fortress style anchor than for a plow.
it's very short and the angle just looks low.
 
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I prefer the Danforth anchors over the plow where I boat... I don't believe a Danforth anchor's design would not give you and interference problems with your boat... For your boat a 25 lb Danforth would hold well up 60 knot winds. I would cost about $130.

00002337.jpg


.


Regarding you question, I can't imagine why anyone would have changed your anchor rollers to a shorter one... .
 
I prefer the Danforth anchors over the plow where I boat... I don't believe a Danforth anchor's design would not give you and interference problems with your boat... For your boat a 25 lb Danforth would hold well up 60 knot winds. I would cost about $130.

00002337.jpg


.


Regarding you question, I can't imagine why anyone would have changed your anchor rollers to a shorter one... .
that is the same style I was referring to
I have a Fortress FX-11 and the angle of the flukes can be changed also... for different bottom conditions

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10391|33872|10392&id=66198
 
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My Dad's 290 Amberjack has that same chute as yours. You just need the right anchor. Not all plow anchors will work. It may be worth it to try the S/S anchor.
 
I tried the Defender FX-11 - that was the fluke I said didn't fit. Two little nicks on the gelcoat just for trying, since the tips on the Aluminum FX-11 that West Marine sells are so damn sharp. Skolbe is right. The AJ has limited choices since the chute is recessed and flat. Still hoping to hear from someone that succeeded w/o a Kodiak.
 
When I bought my 410, I removed the plow and replaced it with a Fortress. The only way it would work and sit nice was to remove the center guide roller. That allows the
shank to sit lower and keep the flukes from hitting the bow. The shank does rest on the stainless but has not caused an issue.
 

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