TEFLON after compound and wax?
- Thread starter rhoudini
- Start date
NautyDog
New Member
- Feb 23, 2009
- 153
- Boat Info
- 280 Sundancer 2005
- Engines
- Twin 5.0's w/ Bravo III Drives
You shouldn't apply anything after a regular (i.e. carnuba) wax. A wax will degrade after a several weeks (up to a month or two), and anything applied on top of them will come off with the wax.
Synthetic waxes (i.e. Meguiars Flagship) use other compounds and can last many months depending on the product, number of coats, etc. The best thing to do with these is to just add several coats for greater protection.
If you like the look of organic wax, put it on AFTER a synthetic wax (i.e. Teflon, Meguiars Flagship, etc). I've read that you shouldn't combine synthetic waxes as they are meant to bond to either the gelcoat or themselves (i.e. multiple coats). So if you put teflon on top of a polymer, then the top coat (i.e. teflon) won't adhere to the bottom coat (i.e. the polymer) and it's a waste of time.
There are plenty of threads on detailing boats that can provide better information than my $0.02
Synthetic waxes (i.e. Meguiars Flagship) use other compounds and can last many months depending on the product, number of coats, etc. The best thing to do with these is to just add several coats for greater protection.
If you like the look of organic wax, put it on AFTER a synthetic wax (i.e. Teflon, Meguiars Flagship, etc). I've read that you shouldn't combine synthetic waxes as they are meant to bond to either the gelcoat or themselves (i.e. multiple coats). So if you put teflon on top of a polymer, then the top coat (i.e. teflon) won't adhere to the bottom coat (i.e. the polymer) and it's a waste of time.
There are plenty of threads on detailing boats that can provide better information than my $0.02
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Teflon may not stick to wax.
I think the wax would be your final finish. I would go over it with something of the same brand in a finishing spray to protect the wax finish from all the washing you will be doing over the season. Finishing sprays are a simple quick detail for a prepared surface and will wash off first before you start washing wax off. Most finishing solutions have some UV protection as well. Also good to protect the wax finish.
I use no wax at all. I have found best finish and long lasting protection from one of the many synthetic products available. My favorite is Zaino for its optical clarity and its simple application. I use Zaino Grand Finale throughout the season. I try to avoid heavy soap throughout season.
If you chose to use wax, and there are many who do, I would suggest compound, polish, wax in that order. No need to start over but hopefully you have enough protection that compounding may be a step not needed mid or season end when you refinish.
I think the wax would be your final finish. I would go over it with something of the same brand in a finishing spray to protect the wax finish from all the washing you will be doing over the season. Finishing sprays are a simple quick detail for a prepared surface and will wash off first before you start washing wax off. Most finishing solutions have some UV protection as well. Also good to protect the wax finish.
I use no wax at all. I have found best finish and long lasting protection from one of the many synthetic products available. My favorite is Zaino for its optical clarity and its simple application. I use Zaino Grand Finale throughout the season. I try to avoid heavy soap throughout season.
If you chose to use wax, and there are many who do, I would suggest compound, polish, wax in that order. No need to start over but hopefully you have enough protection that compounding may be a step not needed mid or season end when you refinish.
- Oct 6, 2006
- 12,155
- Boat Info
- 1996 450DA
- Engines
- 3116 Caterpillars
We had a "snake oil salesman" come around the marina a couple of years ago promising a one year warranty on his "Proprietary Teflon Finisher" in Florida. I decided to find out what I could about the product before trying it out. I spoke to 3-4 different technical guys at various wax/polish/compound makers and discovered that there are 2 basic types of finish.....wax and acrylic sealer. The acrylic sealer doesn't seal or last as long as wax unless you burnish it into the gelcoat, very much like compounding where you keep the buffer on the surface until you get it warm and you get a shine.
Every company I talked to offered a Teflon finish, but they all said Teflon can add nothing to the end result, it only makes the application and finishing easier for the guy applying it. Teflon can also cause subsequent coats of anything to fail to adhere if any residue is left remaining on the gelcoat.
For what its worth............... oh, I use an automotive clear coat safe pre-cleaner and Collinite wax on my boat - 3X a year.
Every company I talked to offered a Teflon finish, but they all said Teflon can add nothing to the end result, it only makes the application and finishing easier for the guy applying it. Teflon can also cause subsequent coats of anything to fail to adhere if any residue is left remaining on the gelcoat.
For what its worth............... oh, I use an automotive clear coat safe pre-cleaner and Collinite wax on my boat - 3X a year.
fwebster:Thanks for your review im thinking about "Collinite Fleet Wax #885 PASTE" after Fini****. I have a blue hull.
what do you think about this.. I am located at south Florida!
"your boat is a dark colored hull and kept bellow the Carolina's you should consider a sealant! Carnuba's melt at about 145 to 150 degrees.."
what do you think about this.. I am located at south Florida!
"your boat is a dark colored hull and kept bellow the Carolina's you should consider a sealant! Carnuba's melt at about 145 to 150 degrees.."
- Oct 6, 2006
- 12,155
- Boat Info
- 1996 450DA
- Engines
- 3116 Caterpillars
I can't offer a lot of help on the colored hulls except to tell you what we are seeing in NW Fla.
Those that look good are always clean and are de-oxidized and waxed at least every three months. Owners who wait longer that that have a huge chore to ever bring the hulls back. Sun and salt are both your enemy........you need to wash the salt off the hull every time you use the boat and weekly if you don't use it. Try to protect the hull from the sun if there is any way you can.
As far as actual chemicals for hull care, the guy who taught me about fiberglass care lives in Miami now and he is using a precleaner, like a clear coat safe polishing compound, followed by an acrylic sealer that is burnished on with an orbital buffer. I'm having good luck with Collinite Insulator wax where we are and I doubt the temperatures at the hull level off the water are that much different in the summer. The key to any final wax or polish working, looking good and lasting is to remove all the existing oxidation before applying the final finish.
Good luck ............
Those that look good are always clean and are de-oxidized and waxed at least every three months. Owners who wait longer that that have a huge chore to ever bring the hulls back. Sun and salt are both your enemy........you need to wash the salt off the hull every time you use the boat and weekly if you don't use it. Try to protect the hull from the sun if there is any way you can.
As far as actual chemicals for hull care, the guy who taught me about fiberglass care lives in Miami now and he is using a precleaner, like a clear coat safe polishing compound, followed by an acrylic sealer that is burnished on with an orbital buffer. I'm having good luck with Collinite Insulator wax where we are and I doubt the temperatures at the hull level off the water are that much different in the summer. The key to any final wax or polish working, looking good and lasting is to remove all the existing oxidation before applying the final finish.
Good luck ............
