Teak on the Classics

[DKRanger22]

I'm curious to learn how the other Classic owners maintain their teak. On the 85' Amberjack, I have always scrubbed with a cleaner and then applied teak oil (typically Amazon products). However, I have always been tempted by the deep, rich, wet look of the varnishes (i.e. Seikens - Cetol), and might give this a go on the new 85' Weekender.

The oil sure is a lot of work, which looks good when completed. The only problem is that the wood needs to be oiled twice per season to maintain that rich look. As I understand it, the varnishes are much less maintaince, only requiring a light sanding and a light re-coat ever few seasons. Are there any disadvantages to moving to a varnish, such as Seikens / Cetol, that I am not aware of?

The teak on the 85' Weekender looks beautiful (no blemishes, very clean). However, the previous owner never treated it with an oil or a varnish - he simpley cleaned it twice per season with Amazon One Step Teak Cleaner.

Thanks in advance for the advice!

 

[ghuskin]

DKRanger,

I feel your pain! First year - cleaner/sealer/teak oil. looked good for a week, reoil. pita.

year two, cleaned/sanded/tropical teak sealer. looked ok lasted one season.

year three (this year) - cleaned/sanded/Cetol. teak looks absolutely beautiful. My daughter says, "dad, when did you put those rails on the bow?" moral - the teak pops! I need to get pics loaded. I hope it lasts two - three seasons as many predict.

Gregg

 

[BillyT0020]

Sikkens Natural Teak Stain followed by their topcoat gloss. A+++ IMO Oil is too much work and dosn't look as nice as varnish.

 

[DKRanger22]

Can someone provide some pictures of the various colors of Sikkens - Cetol:

I.E. standard cetol marine, marine light, marine natural teak, etc.

Also, those who finish with a gloss - is there a need to sand / touch up years down the road, or if you maintain each season with the gloss coat, would that simply preserve the finish?

 

[tobnpr]

I like a very deep, mirror gloss finish. 3 coats of West System epoxy with special clear hardener, then 6 coats of Epifanes varnish. Scuff and re-coat every six months or so in the South.

Try a search on this subject, a lot of info.

 

[David Morgan]

On my last boat with teak I ended up painting it a wood color. I got tired of the fuss.

 

[helms1200]

I feel your pain, Im driving myself crazy trying to decide what to do to my teak.

 

[WTP07]

This is what I did with my teak inserts this past fall:

Original:

After Cleaner:

After Whitener:

After 2 coats of oil:

I can post some updates as the season progresses showing wear.

Cheers,

Randy.

 

[CaptainH]

I use Cetrol natural, a medium brown color, not as amber as the regular. The new pieces I made and the pieces I have refinished were sanded, apply 3 coats of the natural, sand with 320, apply 3-4 light coats gloss also sanding between coats. The result is a high gloss glass finish in a warm brown color. The test of time is just underway but looks like a very durable system. I have purchased Starbrite teak cleaner/brightner and in the near future will be trying it on my platform inserts instead of the sanding. If it works it will make a lot easier job for the other teak that will be difficult to remove and sand.

 

[fxsales]

Minwax, Helmsman Spar Urethane, High gloss. Still doing the restore, 9 coats and counting. Will post pictures when done, but it looks like a mirror so far.

j

 

[CAGE RATTLER]

Instead of starting another thread ............. What is a good teak cleaner and brightner that i can use on teak trim without hurting gelcoat or anything else that its attached to?

The stuff i used on my bow pulpit and swim platform inserts worked great but is to strong to use on attached teak.

 

[DKRanger22]

I have always used Amazon one step teak cleaner, and have been happy with the results. All of the Amazon products have provided me with good results (cleaner, brightener, oil). Good products to use!

 

[helms1200]

---

 

[helms1200]

Is there much of a difference in some of the cheaper spar varnish v/s the more expensive ones? rustoleum has a marine spar varnish for $16 a qt. Has anyone used this brand before?

 

[pinkale]

As a woodworker I'd like to direct everyones attention to an article published in Fine Wood Working Magazine. The same question was asked with some interesting results. The results were in the June 2009 Number 205 In short in recommends Epifanes High Gloss Marine Varnish The best thing about it no sanding between coats and the best protection against the elements. It was tested in four different states in different climates I suggest reading the article before you coat your teak and good luck Andrew

 

[KRB64]

I guess I'm weird.

I like to pull up in a shady cove and spend an hour or so with a bourbon oiling the teak. Mindless work so it's a good time to think while looking over the boat real close.

I've been using Star Brite. I just take a little cup and foam brush and work my way over the boat. By the time it's all done, I come back with the foam brush and wipe off the spots that are still "wet" and hit again those that still look dry.

Only have to do that once maybe twice a season here in KY. But the boat is kept in a covered slip too.

The 240 has Cetol from the last owner. I don't like the orange tint and where its worn down it looks real bad. But I've done nothing to spruce it up either...

The traditionalist in me likes the teak and oil...

 

[AKBASSKING]

Here is what we use. WATCO Teak Oil finish. You can get this stuff at Lowes for about $8. We find that it holds up good to the weather. The admiral is in charge of the teak. She cleans it with deck cleaner, then sands it with 60, 120 and then 220gt paper.

You have to keep this stuff stirred up to keep the varnish mixed. She applies a thin coat with a good quality brush. Then let it fully dry, wet sand then reapply.

 

[brains06]

I like the look of the Sikkens natural. I sanded with 80 then 120 and finally 220 before applying and it looks great, see my thread "brains teak restoration" for some pics. I did it last year and the stuff that I took my time on still looks great. The parts that I rushed on are starting to show but it only takes a light scuffing before re-application. If I had to do all this twice a year like you would if you oiled it.....I'd probably burn the boat down.

 

[300 Ray]

I have a 1986 300 WE. Every year I pick a section of boat to remove the teak from and redo. So far the best look I have gotten is, with all exterior and back deck pieces is sanding bear then 220 then 10 coats epifanes high gloss. I thin the first 7 coats then full strength with final 3. The boat gets a ton of onlookers at any dock that we tie up to!! almost like its an old wooden boat or something! Well i guess it sortov is.LOL. All interior cabin work I still oil.

 

[AKBASSKING]

I have a 1986 300 WE. Every year I pick a section of boat to remove the teak from and redo. So far the best look I have gotten is, with all exterior and back deck pieces is sanding bear then 220 then 10 coats epifanes high gloss. I thin the first 7 coats then full strength with final 3. The boat gets a ton of onlookers at any dock that we tie up to!! almost like its an old wooden boat or something! Well i guess it sortov is.LOL. All interior cabin work I still oil.

Any pics?

I have an 86 300DB.