Swim Platform ReFixing - Need the definative method

Nassau Weekender

New Member
Apr 13, 2009
76
Nassau, Bahamas
Boat Info
1988 300 Weekender
Engines
Merc 350 FWC, Borg Warner Velvet Drives, Straight Shafts, Onan 4KW
Guys

I need to haul to refix swim platform. Please give me the low down on how to do this properly. I dont want to do it again. The thought of water ingress scares the C**P out of me.

It is totaly standard at the moment - just three braces with 2 screws each into the transom.

Maybe bolt and seal straight through enlarging one hole in each support to say 3/8" - Dont think there is enough metal to enlarge both holes.

Thought ideas greatly appreciated. I just get a little nervous doing things below the water line.

Thanks
 
If they are pulling out you may have soft wood in the transom at those areas. Could be a bigger problem than expected.

Here is what I did with all fasteners through the transom on ours - pics below. The platform itself is also bolted through. Outside hole sizes stayed the same. Using the fiberglass tubing liner, should water ever get in it will not damage the wood in the transom. Done from the inside during transom replacement but same thing could be done with an existing transom.
Tubing:
Antenna Sample Pack - assortment of 6 inch long fiberglass sleeves

From: Max-Gain Systems, Inc., 221 Greencrest Ct., Marietta, GA 30068

TR_REP_11.jpg

Holes cut for the trim tab hydraulic supply line and fasteners.

TR_matl_5.jpg

Fiberglass tubing samples. Cut to be flush with inside surface as needed and epoxied in place.

TR_REP_16.jpg

Finished trim tab holes
 
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Not pulled out - Someone jumped on the platform and broke the heads off a couple of screws - but whats left sticking out does kinda look a little rusty where the screw head was. Not top quality stainless I suspect.

Transom seems solid with no soft spots or loose fasteners, cracking etc. Stringers are good no bulges. I did some pilot holes into the stringers for a new genny platform and what came out looked good i.e. mid brown "peelings" not wet, just looked old.

KC nice job man - A little more involved than I was planing for the time being.
 
I'm glad to hear everything seems solid and they were not pulling out.
You should be safe with opening them up a bit and using a good sealant.
Be sure you use 316 stainless bolts and NOT 304.
Have fun !
 
Thanks KC

Just deliberating about the modified bolt through with ss washers and 5200FC both sides or the standard screw method.

I think I am going to go bolt through, using a single 3/8" bolt on each support.

Unless someone tells me different.
 
Imo ...larger bolts all the way through with large washers and nuts on the inside in the top position would make it much more solid
 
Thanks, thats what I am going to do.

Anyone know how thick my transom is ? 1-1/2" maybe ?
 
Our 270 is 1 1/2"

I agree - bolt through but be sure you are using 316 stainless as I mentioned before.
 
I am thinking about glassing epoxied wood blocks to the transom and attaching the struts to them. Doing this will prevent any water from getting to the tansom core. I'm scared to drill thru the transom in six spots below the waterline for fear of future leakage.
 
I'm scared to drill thru the transom in six spots below the waterline for fear of future leakage.

I know exactly what you mean bro.

KC - Yeh but dont you have I/O's - Transom will be different - I think ? or maybe not...
 
KC - Yeh but dont you have I/O's - Transom will be different - I think ? or maybe not...

True - may be different. :smt017
I would triple check the hole locations to be sure you have access to the holes after drilling through.
Don't want to drill into a closed cavity or anything else for that matter.
 

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