Swapped cabin lights to LED

You would have to take one out. If it's a halogen bi-pin, it's G4.
BTW, all my LEDs are still working! I don't know what happened to Robski97! Bad batch??
 
Changed all my interior bulbs to Marinebeam warm whites. Love the fact that they generate no heat and draw little current. Well worth the investment.
 
Can you post a couple pics when you have time?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Swapped them out and I have lights .. IDK but that was really bad experiment . They didn't even want them back and refunded a full credit no issue . I have really bad luck !

Rob
 
I'm looking at the Marinebeam.com site and there are SO MANY options for these G4 interior bulbs that it's overwhelming. I like the idea of a softer white bulb. Can someone post a specific marinebeam part number or link that they used for a boat of about my 2005 vintage?
 
Havana Shamrock said:
I've heard all the stories about cheapo LED's and I agree . However I found this store and thought I'd try them since I needed a lot of G4's they seem well made and so far all season have been flawless. My full amp draw (only lights on ) before was 29 amps now with led's it's 4 amps here's a link if so one wants to try them out.
https://www.hero-led.com/backpin-tower-t3-jc-g4-led-bulb-15-watts-15w-equivalent-5pack-p-5248.html
Click to expand...

Thanks for this. Did you do the warm or daylight white light option?
 
copb8tx said:
I'm looking at the Marinebeam.com site and there are SO MANY options for these G4 interior bulbs that it's overwhelming. I like the idea of a softer white bulb. Can someone post a specific marinebeam part number or link that they used for a boat of about my 2005 vintage?
Click to expand...

All of the G4's in my boat are Marinebeam BP-G4-06 warm white or BP-G4-10 warm white. The 10's are brighter however for almost all of the fixtures the 06's put out plenty of light. Note also these lamps are non-polarity and dimmable. The Marinebeam lamps are AYBC compliant which may be of interest from an insurance perspective...
These lamps have the pins on the back and emit light from the pins out. Some G4 fixtures have pins going in from the side which is a different lamp.

A lot of folks are very happy with http://Superbrightleds.com - Here would be the comparable - https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...att-equivalent-bi-pin-led-disc-white-hh/1634/
 
Last edited:
Robski97 said:
Wayne,
I have 75 % failure rate on those bulbs .... 2 didn't even work out of the box ... rest blew out during the course of the first nite.

NOT GOOD .. sending them all back


I'm now looking at Marinebeam.com

Rob
Click to expand...

Rob, mine are starting to fail now. I've lost 2 so far. I'll just eat the cost at this point and order better ones in the spring.
 
I bought that set of LED bulbs on Amazon, but when I tried to put them in the ceiling fixtures they are too long. Does anybody know of a G4 10W-equivalent LED that is smaller than these Rayhoo bulbs?
 
Joel_MD said:
I bought that set of LED bulbs on Amazon, but when I tried to put them in the ceiling fixtures they are too long. Does anybody know of a G4 10W-equivalent LED that is smaller than these Rayhoo bulbs?
Click to expand...
Mine fit just fine. Different fixture, maybe.
 
wayne0 said:
Rob, mine are starting to fail now. I've lost 2 so far. I'll just eat the cost at this point and order better ones in the spring.
Click to expand...

The ones that are failing are in the fixtures with the AC bulbs. I think the heat of those bulbs kills the LEDs. All my dedicated DC LEDs are fine.
 
Just don't ever use your AC bulbs. I took mine out.
 
Anyone have interference from the Constant Current supplies built into the LED's?

I lose TV reception when the hard top LED's are on!

I didn't have time to track down if it was noise in the DC side or RF interference but will sort it in the spring.
 
AFD said:
Just don't ever use your AC bulbs. I took mine out.
Click to expand...


Hope I'm not being dense here, but how do you know if you have AC fixtures? I was under the impression that 100% of the lighting units (on my boats anyways) were DC circuits. Currently I have 1999 380 DA.

I just bought a bunch 'o Chinese LEDs and replaced about 4 cabin bulbs so far. She's sadly gone in for hibernation so I won't be able to tell how reliable they are. But before I get my fingers "mousetrapped" 18 more times I thought I'd drop this question.

BTW - regardless of where you grab them, those mousetrap fixtures WILL snap on your fingers - it's like they have a 6th sense
 
Island Time Buffalo said:
Hope I'm not being dense here, but how do you know if you have AC fixtures? I was under the impression that 100% of the lighting units (on my boats anyways) were DC circuits. Currently I have 1999 380 DA.

I just bought a bunch 'o Chinese LEDs and replaced about 4 cabin bulbs so far. She's sadly gone in for hibernation so I won't be able to tell how reliable they are. But before I get my fingers "mousetrapped" 18 more times I thought I'd drop this question.

BTW - regardless of where you grab them, those mousetrap fixtures WILL snap on your fingers - it's like they have a 6th sense
Click to expand...
A multimeter will do the job, but my easy test was to disconnect shore power, leave the generator off, and flip switches/push buttons: AC items won't operate.

In mine, only 1 set of bulbs is AC--2 of 4 in a dual voltage Perko fixture in the galley. It has two push button switches, one marked "high" (120v) and one marked "low" (12v). On shore power, both switches work--we can turn on all 4 bulbs if we wish. While on ship power with no generator, the low switch pair of bulbs illuminates but the other pair doesn't.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,182
Messages
1,428,056
Members
61,088
Latest member
SGT LAT
Back
Top