Stumped on trim tab electrical issue

[Gunn]

I have been troubleshooting my trim tab issues and have now figured out a problem...but have no idea how to fix it. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated!

I completely disconnected the Bennett trim tab motor/pump. In the ER behind the port engine, I have 5 wires...black (ground) and four to control the pump:

- green (starboard side trim tab solenoid valve)
- red (port side trim tab solenoid valve)
- blue (trim tab motor forward)
- yellow (trim tab motor reverse)

I hooked up my multimeter to the black ground wire and then to each of the colored wires to see if I was getting +12V from the wires when the trim tab buttons at the help port side control pad were working as expected. Green are buttons that pass the test as expected. Red is the problem.

- starboard bow down button (+12V on red valve wire and +12V on blue motor forward wire)
- starboard bow up button (+12V on red valve wire and +12V on yellow motor reverse wire)
- port bow down button (+12V on green valve wire and +12V on blue motor forward wire)
- port bow up button (momentary +12V, then 0V on green valve wire, momentary +12V and then 0V on yellow motor reverse wire)

With each button press tested, there is a clicking sound coming from behind the breaker box in the port side of the ER (where the trim tab circuit breaker is located, among other things). But for the problem button, there is a click and then another immediate click less than a second later. This clicking sound correlates to seeing +12V (first click), followed clicking by the second click, which then I see +0V.

This issue prevents me from retracting the starboard side trim tab. What might be happening here? And what can I do to fix it? I'm assuming this is a Sea Ray issue and not a Bennett trim tab issue at this point. But I'm stumped as to how to proceed...

Thanks, :smt009

Tom

 

[Saverio]

Maybe the wire got nicked and is shorted. Discconect the wire from the switch and pump side. Than take ur meter and measure between ground and the wire. it should be open or no resistance. if your reading something follow and inspect the wire maybe theres a screw in it

 

[k-nutz]

Maybe the wire got nicked and is shorted. Discconect the wire from the switch and pump side. Than take ur meter and measure between ground and the wire. it should be open or no resistance. if your reading something follow and inspect the wire maybe theres a screw in it

**edited after I reread the last post**

I would say the clicking you are hearing is from some sort of relay, so there is always the possibility that a relay may be going bad. I would probably shoot a PM to tabbman and see what he has to say, from what I have read on his thread responses for trim tab items he is top notch with his knowledge and customer service...

 

[Gunn]

Thanks guys. Good info on relays...I may need to find a Sea Ray expert on this one. I'll shoot Tabman a message too.

the problem with this setup is Sea Ray used these fancy control pads in boats of my era. A bunch of switches, with only 3-4 wires coming out the back. So no way to trace a wire directly.

I've completely removed the trim pump from the boat so the end wires are disconnected. But the wires at the switch are meaningless...

Tom

 

[Tabman]

I have been troubleshooting my trim tab issues and have now figured out a problem...but have no idea how to fix it. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated!

I completely disconnected the Bennett trim tab motor/pump. In the ER behind the port engine, I have 5 wires...black (ground) and four to control the pump:

- green (starboard side trim tab solenoid valve)
- red (port side trim tab solenoid valve)
- blue (trim tab motor forward)
- yellow (trim tab motor reverse)

I hooked up my multimeter to the black ground wire and then to each of the colored wires to see if I was getting +12V from the wires when the trim tab buttons at the help port side control pad were working as expected. Green are buttons that pass the test as expected. Red is the problem.

- starboard bow down button (+12V on red valve wire and +12V on blue motor forward wire)
- starboard bow up button (+12V on red valve wire and +12V on yellow motor reverse wire)
- port bow down button (+12V on green valve wire and +12V on blue motor forward wire)
- port bow up button (momentary +12V, then 0V on green valve wire, momentary +12V and then 0V on yellow motor reverse wire)

With each button press tested, there is a clicking sound coming from behind the breaker box in the port side of the ER (where the trim tab circuit breaker is located, among other things). But for the problem button, there is a click and then another immediate click less than a second later. This clicking sound correlates to seeing +12V (first click), followed clicking by the second click, which then I see +0V.

This issue prevents me from retracting the starboard side trim tab. What might be happening here? And what can I do to fix it? I'm assuming this is a Sea Ray issue and not a Bennett trim tab issue at this point. But I'm stumped as to how to proceed...

Thanks, :smt009

Tom

I am assuming that the switch for the Trim Tabs is not from Bennett, but rather one provided by SeaRay. It's likely a micro switch that relies on relays (that's what you hear clicking) to get the power to the pump. Green and yellow need to be powered to bring the starboard Trim Tab up. So if power is not being delivered it is probably a faulty switch or relay.

Is there a small relay back by the pump? It would be white with black potting and about 1 foot from the pump? If so try bypassing it. as it would be there just to prevent blowing the fuse if you push one Tab up and the other down at the same time. If it is not there, than the fault lies in the SeaRay relays or switch and unfortunately I can't help with that.

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine

 

[Gunn]

Right, green to open the starboard valve, yellow to spin the pump in reverse...

There is no relay close to the pump.

Does anyone know how Searay converts the control pad switches to voltage to the pump? Is there a relay for each button? Are these relays built into the ER EIM? That's where I hear the clicking coming from.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[Gunn]

In my relentless search to fix this issue, I came across this post last year from member 'jkim1990': http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/59117-One-tab-won-t-go-down

It's the same problem! I have the same helm electric control pad that goes to the engine room Electronics Interface Module (EIM). The included wiring diagram is helpful as I haven't seen that before:

The only minor difference is that when I press and hold my port bow up trim button, I get a momentary clicking of a relay in the ER EIM, accompanied by a momentary +12V to the green and yellow Bennett HPU wires.

Would this still point to the switchpad going bad as in jkim1990's solution? Or could it be a relay in the EIM? TabMan thought that since the other 3 tab buttons work on jkim1990's boat, then the relays were ok...which they were.

$400.00....ouch! :smt089

 

[jkim1990]

Tom,

Your issue sounds just like mine... For the "problem" button, when I pressed it, could sometimes hear a momentary click but then almost an immediate click as relay was released. The helm controller could no hold 12V open.

Unlike Bennett tabs which uses the straight 5 wires between helm an motor, Sea Ray uses a proprietary signal (at least that was the way it was explained to me).

Only way to know if the helm controls are the issue is to have a replacement (bought or borrowed). As you know, the helm control was my issue.

I got your PM and might be better discussion than post, PM again with a contact number and I can call you.

 

[Gunn]

Wow, I just realized I never followed up on this post (I hate when people do that!). So I ended up having to replace BOTH the port side control pad at the helm, AND the Bennett trim tab pump/motor unit to solve this problem. I had completely removed the trim pump and bench tested it; the starboard valve failed its test. And the port side control pad was exacerbating the issue. I also had other issues with that pad; the bilge pump switch would no longer work, and the green bilge blower indicator light wouldn't light. What a mess.

All has been working fine since!