Still need offseason maintenance?

Scotto97

Member
Feb 26, 2009
95
Las Vegas
Boat Info
"Wench & Rum" 2007 260 Sundancer, Gen with A/C
Engines
350 Mag
I store my boat in dry storage next to Lake Mead in a spot that will never get below freezing. If I'm taking the boat onto the lake every 2 months or so in the winter, do I still need some type of winterizing done? (I've added Marine Sta-bil & a solar panel battery charger)

I've only put around 60 hours on her in 2 seasons (MarineMax Dealer swears complete maintenance was done before I bought her as a Certified Pre-owned in Feb, 2009 with 56 hours),

What would you recommend for service besides changing the oil at this point?

Thanks
 
scott; unless you are in heated dry storage. drain that puppy when you get her off the lake. it dosnt happen very often down there but boats can freeze.
i know personaly of 3 boats that have cracked blocks there, the last few years. one at callvile bay on a lift, one at lake mead marina on a lift and one at boulder on a trailer.
once you figure out where every thing is, it dosnt take long. dont forget the gen set and ac system

it has been my experience, a boat out of water is much more vulnerable than one in the water. unless you have completely enclosed storage.
merry christmas and take in the parade of lights, if it hasnt all ready happened, this year for me
chears garry

 
It would not hurt to put a float charge through your on board charger, and add some Stabolizer to the fuel... I have plug in dehumidifier in my cabin, that would not be a bad thing to have on your boat...
 
It would not hurt to put a float charge through your on board charger, and add some Stabolizer to the fuel... I have plug in dehumidifier in my cabin, that would not be a bad thing to have on your boat...

netcht; he said he added sta bil. would the solar charger work in place of a float charger? i know they use a lot of them down here for that.

the relative humidly here in the desert is so low that dehumidifiers aren't realy useful.
 
In addition to whatever you do for winterization, oil change, etc, you should also have the outdrive removed and serviced. That allows the mechanic to inspect the bellows, check the alignment of the engine to transom assy. and lubricate the coupler.

We don't want to see your thread in another year about the $3500 cost of replacing a bad coupler.
 
Can't comment on the freeze warning above, but I would keep the fuel on the low side and try to carry only what the planned use is. Stabilizer is a good idea as you have already noted. If you do not use e10, the amount of fuel is perhaps not as important. Still there is no value in carrying a lot of fuel that will not be used for a long time.
 
In addition to whatever you do for winterization, oil change, etc, you should also have the outdrive removed and serviced. That allows the mechanic to inspect the bellows, check the alignment of the engine to transom assy. and lubricate the coupler.

We don't want to see your thread in another year about the $3500 cost of replacing a bad coupler.


Like me.:smt021
 
In addition to whatever you do for winterization, oil change, etc, you should also have the outdrive removed and serviced. That allows the mechanic to inspect the bellows, check the alignment of the engine to transom assy. and lubricate the coupler.

We don't want to see your thread in another year about the $3500 cost of replacing a bad coupler.
good idea frank w; the sun there is harder on the rubber parts than a lot of places.

gary at lake mead marina did all the rubber, lower shift cables, and all 4 trim sending units, new gimbal bearings, gen impeller, and duck bill valves on gerry's 310 this spring for under 2500.
if you need help get a hold of him. good guy.
as you know, there is no longer a marine max dealer in
clark county.
 
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If you do not know when the engine and genny impellers were last changed, I would add those to the list as well along with an oil/filter change for the genny.

BTW, I am a graduate of Coupler University as well. Splines on the coupler and shaft were fine. However, mine developed a slgiht wobble after eleven seasons. Our SR Dealer checked the tolerance by turning over the engine with the alignment tool in place and could see the wobble. So I authorized the engine pull and coupler replacment. Frank W's advice was appreciated.
 
I would ask for documentation on what full maintenance is - I had that "pitch" and also asked when I bought the boat that the drive be serviced - but made the mistake of not clarifying what I thought full service was. A year later - I was buying a new coupler. Do not take the dealerships "service" at face value. While my coupler was not shot - the mechanic said it would probably not last another season - so I went ahead and replaced it.
 
Thanks for all the great advice.

Sounds like I'll have the drive split this year and change its oil along with checking alignment and bellows.

I always change the genny's oil and filter before Spring and keep a spare impeller onboard at all times.

Regarding freeze concerns, if I take her out in the winter, how do I drain the engine quickly if I'm going out again every few weeks? - And I assume we mean draining water that could remain in the block, right?
 
yes the block. i cant help much on that new engine. i haven had gerry's 310 any where i needed to drain it yet (its in a covered slip now).

on my 230 it is a simple matter. there are 2 pet cocks low on the block about in the middle. then 4 pet cocks, one on each corner of the exhaust manifolds. one on the oil cooler on the port side of the engine by the oil pan. the lowest hose on the water pump loose and that would do. i would need to rod out the petcocks with a stiff wire to get the rust chips out.

when i changed from the alpha drive to the bravo i had to include pulling the big red suction hose from the sea water pump.
the 230 has a fresh water tank and lake pump also, but i drained these in the fall and didn't use in the winter.
i never realy winterize, as like you, was in and out of the water all winter.
 

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