Stereo speaker wiring question

wakeup 19

wakeup 19

Member
Nov 14, 2008
678
(Medford)Boston Harbor to Cape Ann to Cape Cod and
Boat Info
1992 300 Sundancer, Quicksilver ding w/ 6hp merc 4 stroke, anchorlift windlass, extended swim platfo
Engines
t/ 350 merc's (carburated) alpha drives gen II
I have a 4 channel 300 watt alpine amp. currently using it to power 2 speakers and 1 sub (bridged). I want to add 2 more speakers to the arch as other speakers are down low and have to crank it up to high to hear while driving. My plan was to run wires from existing speakers in parallel to new speakers in arch. RMS rated for 50 watts/channel. Is a). this going to sound good and b). is this the right plan for doing this. I know its the easiest for me. I called Alpine and they said the amp was 2 ohm stable. Speakers are jl m650 and adding Polk db651's to arch.
Next season will probably add 5 channel amp which I know is the best way to do this long term.
thx Rob:huh:
 
You can wire the speakers in parallel as you will have 2 ohms which is ok for the amp. However, that is really not enough power to drive those speakers while you are driving the boat. I would consider buying a sub amp, like 700 watt single channel amp to drive the sub, then use the 4 channels on the amp you have to run your 4 speakers. If the amp or head unit has cross over controls, cut off any frequencies below 120 Hz and let the sub handle them. That will really improve your amps ability to drive the 6.5 inch speaker with clean signal and adequate headroom.

Pete
 
Just asking why is not a good idea to mix and match speakers?
Maybe I will just wait until next season and do it right w/5 ch and another set of jl speakers.
One other question, why does the stereo cut out on the higher volumes? this happens weather the amp is on or not. the stereo is otherwise just driving 2 speakers below.
Will be reading that article for Aftica tonight. Thanks Rob
 
Just a guess but your stereo is probably clipping. What's the head unit info?
 
Kenwood 492 I believe. Lights on stereo start dimming and pulsing then it goes blank and resets itself. I just need to turn it down a bit. sometimes at volume 28 sometimes higher (35 Max) wired directly to battery. thx Pyro
 
A couple things come to mind... how is the head unit powered? Sounds to me that you've got a corrosion issue on either the power or the ground causing resistance.

Option 2. How is the battery supplying power to the head unit? Is it weak? Is it very far of a run to the head unit and if it is far what gauge wire is run?

Option 3. Well your head unit is on its last legs and is ready to die. The internal components are giving up the ghost and it won't be long that it won't work at all.

Anyone of these in my mind could be a causing factor. The fact that the stereo dims and clips is tale tale power issue. Either externally or internally.
 
After looking up the radio... I'm going to guess it's time for a replacement. Is it the Kenwood x492? What I've searched for shows its no longer produced so it must be a few years old and it's a car receiver that was put in a boat. I would venture to guess you have some internal issues.
 
wakeup 19 said:
Just asking why is not a good idea to mix and match speakers?
Maybe I will just wait until next season and do it right w/5 ch and another set of jl speakers.
One other question, why does the stereo cut out on the higher volumes? this happens weather the amp is on or not. the stereo is otherwise just driving 2 speakers below.
Will be reading that article for Aftica tonight. Thanks Rob
Click to expand...
Someone may have a different reason but I would not mix brand speakers and I would also suggest not mixing within one brand. Different brand speakers have distinct differing sound signatures. I would say that two different JL speakers have differing sound signatures allthogh closer in likeness than a JL and a Kenwood or Alpine/JVC/Focal/Infiniti/JBL/Whatever. This holds true for any brand. The good, better, best by any brand has three different sound characteristics. With that said in a multi channel system or, as we run in our boats, a multi pair system it is best to have the same sound signature throughout. None off this matters if you don't have appreciation for great audio. And . . . as I mentioned earlier . . . sub drivers are excluded in the aforementioned. The Sub woofers are properly set in a frequency range your main speakers do not reproduce(75hz down) so they have their independent duty in the total system.

I suggest that you check your power and ground for your radio issue. If lights are dimming on radio face this is usually a power issue. This same performance issue would happen if you drained you battery to nothing. I don't think buying a new head unit will solve, but I may be wrong. If you have not yet I would invest in a large gauge pos/neg power run from battery to the radio. You will need this anyway as you spoke about upgrading.

You did not mention this was a new problem and I have not followed any of your stereo post for some time. The absolute easiest thing to do is pull radio and bench check it. This will help you know what you are working with and also help with budgeting for future upgrades.

For me there is little that beats a great HiFi on a boat:)

Happy Listening
 
I think you maybe on to something with the gauge wires, I will check when I go down to boat later. I would guess 16 g. This in not a new issue and the battery that the stereo is hooked up to is new. I used to think it was the amp causing the shut down. when I would play something like "in the air at night" Phil collins it would operate fine on say 32 volume until the heavy bass would come on then die. "everyone would look at me and say WTF" then I just learned to keep it a little lower. HAHA
Anyway I am not after the studio quality sound just good reliable grade B sound system for now. I guess I assumed the wiring to stereo, which runs about 8' was not that impt. because a stereo does not draw "that much power" Seems like an easy fix to at least try to go to 14g wire. Stereo is down below so I don't think it is a problem with age or ready to die.
Lastly even though the sound of JL is better than Polk will it give me better overall sound by adding the polks to the arch at 2 ohm or will it be worse for all speakers because I am distributing power to 4 speakers? Spoke with Alpine rep and he said it is a 2ohm stable amp and the RMS would increase from 50-75. I am far from an expert so is this a good thing, sounded like it.
I hooked up a polk on one side and JL on the other in existing setup and the sound, although better with JL, wasn't a huge difference. Just thought having speakers high and low on boat would give me better area coverage.
Also saw an amp on ebay from MB Quart called -OA1100.5 not heard of MB amp before not sure if they were a good product.
Any thoughts on this? looks like a good name and great price? My amp is not exposed to the elements therefore I dont need marine. Also looked at Alpine MRXv70 for $260 as well any thoughts? thx again
thanks guys for the input. Rob
 
A quick search of the MB amp had good reviews. Do yourself a favor and if you have any hint it's the wire replace it with 4 ga Pure copper amp wire
That way you will be ready to wire the amp when you get it. No need to do the same work twice. By dropping the ohms the amp will work harder and produce more heat. It may handle it but it could shorten it's life.
 
I would bench check head unit to be sure it is good.

You mentioned an estimated 8 ft power run. You do not say if it is battery direct.

You are shopping for a new amp. Is this a replacement or addition?

I would have a battery direct minimum 4 ga battery run to a distribution block. With a distribution block in somewhat close proximity of down line components I would run a minimum 8 ga to head unit and minimum 8 ga to amp or each amp in the power/class level you are seeking. This is ALL important.

Because you already own the Polk's and JL's move forward.

MB Quart is a good Brand and better than many. There are many good amps to pick from and your budget is the only limitation.

You will never have too many amps on your boat. You will always have too few amps on your boat. That is my thought. Plan to add and properly power each pair of speakers using two channels of an amp to run one pair of speakers. That is my best advice.
 
HIFI said:
I would bench check head unit to be sure it is good.

You mentioned an estimated 8 ft power run. You do not say if it is battery direct.

You are shopping for a new amp. Is this a replacement or addition?

I would have a battery direct minimum 4 ga battery run to a distribution block. With a distribution block in somewhat close proximity of down line components I would run a minimum 8 ga to head unit and minimum 8 ga to amp or each amp in the power/class level you are seeking. This is ALL important.

Because you already own the Polk's and JL's move forward.

MB Quart is a good Brand and better than many. There are many good amps to pick from and your budget is the only limitation.

You will never have too many amps on your boat. You will always have too few amps on your boat. That is my thought. Plan to add and properly power each pair of speakers using two channels of an amp to run one pair of speakers. That is my best advice.
Click to expand...
Yes HIFI, the head unit is direct wired to battery. Same battery as amp now, that I think of it that maybe an issue. Amp drawing all the power from the battery for bass just when head unit is calling for it.
8 gauge to head unit sounds like a big hunk of wire? I am still contemplating making the move to 5 channel Alpine or MB quart and maybe I can sell current amp to someone in my club. Believe it or not we are looking at some snow tom. so not sure if I can do any work (currently laid off, doooo!) on the boat. I may try to switch head unit to one of the other batteries. Should I test for draw on the HUnit?? thanks Guys I appreciate your help, Rob
 
Pyrojodge said:
A quick search of the MB amp had good reviews. Do yourself a favor and if you have any hint it's the wire replace it with 4 ga Pure copper amp wire
That way you will be ready to wire the amp when you get it. No need to do the same work twice. By dropping the ohms the amp will work harder and produce more heat. It may handle it but it could shorten it's life.
Click to expand...

thanks good idea, will do regardless. MB looked good for $185.00. Want to get cover off but maybe snowing tomorrow! AGAIN
 
wakeup 19 said:
Yes HIFI, the head unit is direct wired to battery. Same battery as amp now, that I think of it that maybe an issue. Amp drawing all the power from the battery for bass just when head unit is calling for it.
8 gauge to head unit sounds like a big hunk of wire? I am still contemplating making the move to 5 channel Alpine or MB quart and maybe I can sell current amp to someone in my club. Believe it or not we are looking at some snow tom. so not sure if I can do any work (currently laid off, doooo!) on the boat. I may try to switch head unit to one of the other batteries. Should I test for draw on the HUnit?? thanks Guys I appreciate your help, Rob
Click to expand...
One battery will power a head unit and a couple amps the size you are discussing. Additionally you indicated you have the same head unit problem with your current amp turned off.
 
That is correct. But to make sure I will double check for sure. If that is the case then maybe increase the gauge wire to the stereo correct? thx Rob
 
wakeup 19 said:
That is correct. But to make sure I will double check for sure. If that is the case then maybe increase the gauge wire to the stereo correct? thx Rob
Click to expand...
I really think you should confirm head unit operation before you move forward with anything. At that point I would proceeding as I outlined earlier in this thread. That is my recommendation. I am not a professional installer. This is just hobby for me. Just my recommendation so you don't start chasing solutions that don't get you results.
 
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