Speaker Size

rootbeerfloat

New Member
Oct 21, 2007
63
Chicago, IL
Boat Info
2005 320 Sundancer
Engines
MX6.2 w/Bravo III
Buying some goodies for the boat over the winter as the deals come by, and am looking at some speakers. Found some good quality speakers at a good price, but here's the problem. The boat is in winter storage and is not close to home, so I can't easily just stop by and look, and I want to make sure I get the correct size speakers.

It's an '05 320 and I'm looking to replace the cockpit speakers. Are they 6-1/2" speakers?

Also, I don't want to sway any input so I won't tell you what I'm looking at, but I'm open to recommendations. We want to upgrade the stereo in general - head unit, amp, and speakers. What's everyone's recommendations? Not looking to go extremely high-end, but definitely an upgrade to factory. Would you keep the factory setup of the amp only powering the rear (cockpit) speakers? Do you think it's necessary to stick with a marine head unit? Do I have to stick with Clarion if I want to keep the cd changer? Etc, etc.

Thanks everyone...and Happy Holidays!!
 
I am 90 % sure they are 6.5" . I have some infinity on my 310 and am very pleased. A few years back I god rid of that crappy little 2 channel amp and replaced it with a four channel amp so that all four 6.5s on the arch and side panels are powered equally. This provides a good increase in sound now that they are all amplified. I hooked up the speakers in the cabin to the internal thumbnail sized amp on the clarion head unit because I don't need much power down there. I chose an Eclipse ten 4 channel amp which is rated at 60 watts each channel and produces clean power . This amp allows a comfortable listening level without utilizing its full power. With the exception of some higher priced amps ,this is the downfall of most , you have to resort to cranking the unit into parts of its power ability that are sloppy to get the volume you want. This amp is tunable to your needs and I find it to be a good comprimise between the cheap clarion stuff and really expensive gear. I still use the Clarion head an cd changer ,they work well .The real upgrade that you will notice is the power and speaker choices. The imputs are all compatable . The Clarion has outputs that you plug into an external amp and the speaker leads come out of the amp. All in all a very easy way to upgrade. I think the Clarion cd changer and head work well. The problem in capatability is when you try to match different heads with changers, but all amps are designed for any preamp output. One note : take care in wire choice for power . My head and amp are near the distribution panel and Searay used a good wire for power it is 12 gauge and for my power requirements it is fine. If you go to a very high powered set use a heavier wire. Good luck
 
I change mine to poly planners. The radar arch speakers holes are not to deep so ck your sizes. I used 5 1/2'" they fit without any modification. I also added to plate surface mount speakers to the radar arch top facing down. They have only a 1" profile and direct sound down. No matter what change the amp. Mine was located under the mid cabin berth locker and was only 20 watts. Change the amp will really give you the upgrade in sound. Its all just plug and play mods.
 
Top Gun , I noticed you swing 4 blade props how is speed and performance? I had to reprop due to ethanol and went to a 18"x19" three blade Nibral with a med cup and am still not satisfied with performance. What can you get out of your 350's w.o.t. rpms?
 
My wot is still 4950-5000 rpm @ 35- 36 mph. The benifit is the whole shot and getting on plane. I can't rave enough on what a difference and my local prop shop added the .75" cup. No matter what the load and I run heavy she pops up and runs also my cruise at 3600-3700rpm went up to 27 mph. 4 blades are smooth and the only way to go thats why I list my prop info on my signature inorder to get the word out on what works.
 
I am wondering if this is the fix for me? It was clesr that the 17"x20" were too aggressive and I re propped to allow my Mercs to run in an acceptable rpm range. I am sure the magnum engine has the power to swing four blades however I am concerned with the triple whammy performance killers we have here. I am in Texas ,fresh water that turns to pea soup in the summer with 90% humidity, 100 degree temps ,and the forced use of ethanol laced fuels. It is a gasoline engines nightmare. The only true comparison to your situation with the exception of salt water, is the ambient conditions right now . In this cool weather I can push 29kts(33.3mph) @4900rpm. The minute summer rolls around I am back to as low as 4600 the absolute bottom of whats needed. Add a little growth on the bottom(unavoidable here) and forget it. I am going to reinvestigate the four blade option at my prop shop, maybe there is something he can do . My main concern is proper cruising rpm. I like to cruise @ 21kts(24mph) and at this speed I burn 26 gph thanks to ethanol.They say there is magic in the propping of this I am sure , Thanks for your post.
 
topgun - since we have the same boat, and you already changed yours, do you know approximately how deep the arch is? I would like to buy during the off season like I mentioned, but don't want to be stuck with something I can't use. BTW, I have been looking at Polk speakers. Any input?

whiteglove - thanks for the info. I think mine must be wired differently than yours. If I turn on my head unit I can get sound in the cabin, but nothing in the cockpit. I have to turn the amplifier rocker switch on to get any sound in the cockpit. That would imply that all four speakers are on the amp, correct? I did speak to SeaRay right when we bought the boat regarding some other issues with the stereo, and they told me that they run the amp through the rear channel of the head unit. Does that mean they have the four speakers tied to two outputs?
 
you do run 4 speakers thru 2 outputs, simply put stereo (1 left/1 right channel) more speakers reduce power from the amp and do not add more channels. Also as far as the depth of the arch simply remove the exsisting speaker. remember the botoom of the hole is deaper than the top so take the minimum depth.
 
I understand right and left channel. However, the comment was made by whiteglove that he replaced the two channel amp so that all four speakers would be powered by the amp. My response was simply that my amp already powers all four speakers, and I'm supprised that they would run four speakers off two outputs (assuming they simply tied the wires toghether). Not the best set-up.

I realize I can pull my speakers out. As stated in my original post, it's the middle of winter here and the boat is in storage several hours away. Just looking for info from someone who has already had them out.

Thanks.
 
I think they may be using two amps and wiring for two sets of speakers through a selector switch. The only way to tell for sure is to look. If you have twa small amps by clarion for all the work ,I would suggest getting a four channel for the work on deck where the power is needed and use your little amp for the speakers downstairs. My friends 340 came with one two channel amp to run four speakers upstairs which is turned on with that switch you mentioned. The downstairs has the same arrangement. We removed the small amp for the up and replaced with a proper 4 channel and used the old two channel for the cabin.This had very good results.
 
I am 90 % sure they are 6.5" . I have some infinity on my 310 and am very pleased. A few years back I god rid of that crappy little 2 channel amp and replaced it with a four channel amp so that all four 6.5s on the arch and side panels are powered equally. This provides a good increase in sound now that they are all amplified. I hooked up the speakers in the cabin to the internal thumbnail sized amp on the clarion head unit because I don't need much power down there. I chose an Eclipse ten 4 channel amp which is rated at 60 watts each channel and produces clean power . This amp allows a comfortable listening level without utilizing its full power. With the exception of some higher priced amps ,this is the downfall of most , you have to resort to cranking the unit into parts of its power ability that are sloppy to get the volume you want. This amp is tunable to your needs and I find it to be a good comprimise between the cheap clarion stuff and really expensive gear. I still use the Clarion head an cd changer ,they work well .The real upgrade that you will notice is the power and speaker choices. The imputs are all compatable . The Clarion has outputs that you plug into an external amp and the speaker leads come out of the amp. All in all a very easy way to upgrade. I think the Clarion cd changer and head work well. The problem in capatability is when you try to match different heads with changers, but all amps are designed for any preamp output. One note : take care in wire choice for power . My head and amp are near the distribution panel and Searay used a good wire for power it is 12 gauge and for my power requirements it is fine. If you go to a very high powered set use a heavier wire. Good luck

Some good info here. I think this is what I may do as well.

Is this the model amp you have? where did you mount the amp?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...n&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SonicElectronix

Thanks.
 
I only have one amp - it's a very small amp located under the couch in the salon. My understanding is that it powers all four cockpit speakers (turn off amp switch and all cockpit sound is gone), and the head unit powers the speakers in the cabin. It sounds exactly like your friends 340. I like your idea, though, about powering the cabin with the small two channel amp and getting the four channel for the cockpit. That would be perfect. Did you put the four channel on the amp rocker switch? How did you power the two channel then?

Have any of you had static problems with your factory stereo? I will be listening to radio/Ipod/cd (doesn't matter) and all of a sudden I get really bad buzzing, like interference. If I turn the unit off and back on it goes away. I've checked the wiring and can't find a bad ground or anything. (?) That's part of the reason I thought about replacing the head unit. Figure it's going bad.

Any thoughts on where to put a sub on a 320?
 
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I am a product of 1960 and was brought up on two channel stereo and graphic equalizers. It suffices to say that the way I adjusted the amp and the head units bass and treble controls ,I am quite pleased with the bass response. The enclosures on the arch and side panels provide a sturdy sound box ,and with some power behind them avery good bass response. I didn't feel I needed to go with a sub and another amp. My amp is an Eclipse by Fujitsu Ten model #ea3422. The power wires are in place to run the amps and the amps go on with the head unit . The head unit has a blue wire leading to the amp for this purpose. If you wish you can keep the power hook up through the switches ,What I would do is this: I would run a 12ga or bigger wire from the distribution panel to the amps ,and use the blue wire to have them switched on whenever the head is switched on. You can fade front or back with the head unit depending on where you are listening. I installed the amp in the cabinet next to the stereo cabinet . I attached it with screws to the lumber bracing behind the vinyl. This made for a very short run for the imput cables from the head unit. It is hard to determine where noise comes from on a boat regarding stereos .You may find a new clean installation may even fix your problem. check the ground and the antenna wires first.I have a Clarion head and seperate 6 disc changer that haven't ever made any noise. They were new with the boat in2001. If you feel the need for a sub I would use a seat enclosure as they are usually part of a laminated structure which makes for a good sturdy mounting point as well as a sound box.
 
Check this thread out, its for a 340DA but theres alot similiar to the 320.

http://www.clubsearay.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4092&highlight=stereo

If your just looking to add new speakers and a sub, look into kicker, JL or MB quart. Polk DB series is also good but the MoMo line does not fit the stock cut outs. For an amp for the cockpit speakers, take a look at the Kicker ZX700.5 amp if you are planning to add one subwoofer.
To reuse your CD changer, you will need to stick with clarion head unit. You could go with a non marine unit but most likely you will loose the helm remote. I don't know of any auto units with remotes like the ones in boats. I'm guessing that in 05 you have a XMD3 head unit? If so, I believe its a simple pug and play install of a CMD5 head unit, the harnesses should be the same. You may need an adapter for the changer though, not sure.
SB
 
I have all JL 7.7s and they are beyond fantastic. I have also used the Alpine marine 6.5s. I may have made some slight Dremmel adjustments but few. Easy to install and sound loud and clear for the money. They also can handle BOAT loads of power! Stuff is cheap right now so I would splurge but mine sounds great already.
 
JL audio is the best speaker made for marine applications in my opinion, I have a very loud and powerfull system set up in a 460 DA (4) 10w7 subs powered by (2) 1000-1 amps. I am running (4) 7 Inch JL audio marine and (2) 5.5 inch in the arch. with that said I would not pick any other speaker at any price for the cockpit!!!

The JL's are apx 175.00 per set for the 7.7 inch 150.00 set 5.5 inch
( They run sales all the time buy 1 set get 1 set free )

4 deck speakers would do a great job apx 350.00 investment

Amp set up I would recomend you "Y" off 2 channels into a 4 channel amp and setup the balance to control 2 speakers in the arch and the other 2 mounted somewhere lower in the cockpit. It is important to control the arch speakers or you will not be able hear yourself think.

I use only JL amps because of there superior voltage regulation this is very important when you listen to your system all day in the bay and batteries start to run low, these amps handle voltage drops better than any on the market.

They also are reasonably priced when you consider you will never have to buy another amp look at a JL 300/4 you will be pleased!!

I would definetly add (1) sub this will be your best bang for your buck
This is whole topic to address if you go this way let me know and I will give you some suggestions

This set up may not be the cheapest but I guarantee it will give you the most for your money

If you have any questions PM me I will let you know what I have done in the past

Don't worry too much about the depth of the arch you can get some spacers made out of white starboard that look great in the arch with the white speakers.

PS if you really want to get crazy KVH just came out with the M1 satellite system 14 inch dia dome perfect for your boat. HD TV run thru your cockpit sound system and you will have the the most popular boat in your marina.

Remember when you start this sound system upgrade thing it seems to never end

Cheers BRB
 
you don't need to stick with a marine head unit if it is in the cabin unless you want a wire remote. I am taking out that crappy Clarion unit and putting in the Kenwood with the usb and aux port in front of head unit. I have already installed the infinity marine 602m (6 1/2) speakers in my boat. I have used these speakers before and that sound great. I am running a sonny xplod 5 ch amp. the Pioneer, Sony and Kenwood head units have some of the best noise ratio in the industry. The Kenwood is 105 db which is execellent. I believe the sony is 120 db, but doesn't have the features Kenwood has. The Kenwood I am buying is KDC-mp438umrcc. Do not confuse this unit with the KDC-mp438U (this one is the car unit without wired remote feature.)

Art
 
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Thanks for all the great feedback. And thanks for the link Newbie. Looks like I'm gonna do some homework and then do a little Christmas shopping!!
 
JL audio is the best speaker made for marine applications in my opinion, I have a very loud and powerfull system set up in a 460 DA (4) 10w7 subs powered by (2) 1000-1 amps. I am running (4) 7 Inch JL audio marine and (2) 5.5 inch in the arch. with that said I would not pick any other speaker at any price for the cockpit!!!

The JL's are apx 175.00 per set for the 7.7 inch 150.00 set 5.5 inch
( They run sales all the time buy 1 set get 1 set free )

4 deck speakers would do a great job apx 350.00 investment

Amp set up I would recomend you "Y" off 2 channels into a 4 channel amp and setup the balance to control 2 speakers in the arch and the other 2 mounted somewhere lower in the cockpit. It is important to control the arch speakers or you will not be able hear yourself think.

I use only JL amps because of there superior voltage regulation this is very important when you listen to your system all day in the bay and batteries start to run low, these amps handle voltage drops better than any on the market.

They also are reasonably priced when you consider you will never have to buy another amp look at a JL 300/4 you will be pleased!!
Trust me I agree with you regarding JL speakers. There is just no comparison. Polk does not even hold a note to them. JL speakers are just loud and crisp. They have no problems at any range of the sound spectrum with any style of music. I have the 7.7s separate system with one sealed pro 10w3v3 sub. I am the loudest clearest boat I heard all last year. But....I tried a 4 channel JL amp first and it just did not have the balls I was looking for. I wanted something that I could turn up and drown out the boat next to me. I went with 2 separate Rockford amps 300watts each. One for the sub and one for the separates. The results were so much more loud and clear. The Rockford can be pretty much cooked and shut off and then cooled and start back like nothing ever happened. IMO best BaBOOM for the buck. I have had about 10 Rockfords in other boats and cars and never had to replace one.
 

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