Soft Spot in Cabin Deck - 2000 260DA

Well since I'm already into the floor I figure that's the easiest place to look. I did read a post from several years back where someone looked in through the table base. I guess the thing is glued on for some reason. Gotta get that oscillating tool.
 
Glued on... you mean the table base? Maybe it's just stuck... try sticking the pole in there and rocking back and forth.
 
I haven't even tried yet. I was referring to a thread posted back in 2016. That was a dialog you had with a guy that had water in there on a 240. It was coming in through the bow eye. That guy noted that the base was glued in. I think someone hypothesized (or simply stated) that Searay sealed the whole box to prevent water intrusion in the event that a bow collision occurred. Maybe that was completely nonsense. I'll try getting the base out tomorrow. That hole through the floor that I mentioned has me a little puzzled.? Only someone that is digging through this type of thing would know if that was supposed to be there, or at least has seen it on their boat.
 
Where is this 3/4" hole? I'm not sure what area that you were referencing.
 
Will take another photo tomorrow that is clearer, but around the area circled.
 

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It's probably easier to see it in person, but... could it be a knot in the wood? Or, maybe someone dropped something on the floor - which could have fractured the fiberglass layer, as well.
 
Better photo of hole. Near tip of utility knife. I'm not certain but I think it may have been through the top layers as well.
 

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Hmm, well seems the hole is there for some reason. There's one on the other side too. The plug on the starboard side is still intact though. It is through all layers. Not the carpet though.
 

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Ah, OK. I was looking at something totally different in your earlier picture. Given the size and location (pretty much a mirror image of each other), I'd say your thought is probably the best.
 
Well, I learned something new about my boat then. Searay should've certaily used a better material to create these plugs though, IMHO.
 
As I'm looking into this there's good and bad. I don't see any evidence of stringers (or skeleton) in the forward hull.?? All contours in the outside hull have corresponding curves when looking inside the cabin. If you look inside any of the forward lockers I believe what I'm seeing is simply the backside of the hull fiberglass shell. The depth below those holes I showed on a previous post (under carpet) is only about 1.5 to 2 inches, with some foam. The deck appears to terminate at a forward bulkhead created by the elevated platform that the table mounts onto (BTW Lazy Daze the table post base is mostly covered by carpet so I'd need to mess that up to get it off. Deliberating if I want to do that). The curvy parts on either side of the deck in question here (galley deck) is the backside of the hull. In between is a deck platform that appears to have no structural significance.?? Just ~2x4 (untreated), plywood, and fiberglass. I have located rot in that 2x4 and the top layer of plywood. Please correct me, ANYONE, if my interpretation of this is not correct. Most of what I'm finding is bone dry so the rot is from previous owner(s). Worst case scenario though would be simply reconstructing the floor platform. Any wisdom to share here? I'm sure I'll learn more as I whittle away at this.
 
In regards to stringers or lack thereof... It's not important that there is a continuous stringer from back to front. Actually, the arrangement/build of the cabin adds structure. For example, the sidewalls of the galley floor (the vertical sections rising from the floor), in essence, are stringers.
 
I have no problem with it. I've never considered my 260DA to be anything other than a solid build. That's for sure. I love the thing. Actually I was relieved there wasn't more wood to rot. I think all I'm seeing here is rebuilding a platform to stand on. Hey, what foam material would you suggest to use under it? Just home depot minimal expansion spray foam in the aerosol can? Also, i thought about using a linoleum like product for on top as others have done. There may be benefit in something more breathable though.??
 
Table base... you could just cut the carpet around the edge, but if there's glue on the base, then you also need to remove that. With what you've found out, it's probably not even necessary to do this, now.

If you're only removing a little bit of foam, I wouldn't worry about. If you did feel the need to replace the foam, just make sure it's totally "closed cell" foam and won't absorb water.

I don't think there's any real concern for "breathability" with a new floor covering. Do the vinyl and don't look back.
 
Thanks Lazy Daze. Still waiting on the oscillating cutter to get to me. Once I get the fiberglass and wood out I'll see how that forward bulkhead (that appears to frame the box that the table base sets on) looks like. Feels solid with a screwdriver though. I'm actually surprised there aren't more threads on this forum dealing with this subject. Water in the area appears to be a common issue. Lots of causes (i.e. leaky plumbing, leaky shower, faulty sump, hatch or porthole leaks, bow eye leaks, etc..). Water must've gotten in there sometime in the past before I owned it and caused the decay I'm now removing. Since it's such a common issue and I'm not planning on re-glassing the floor I feel like I need to seal the new floor with something. This would hopefully be easy to apply. Any suggestions there. I want to make sure that any water that gets to that area in the future is held up where it is visible.
 
I guess the thing is that I hate having closed off *or encased) areas on boats. Especially ones with wood in them. I can't think of a way not to enclose this area, so I think I need to seal it really well. I'll probably get laughed at here, but I'm thinking maybe FlexSeal... ?
 
FishOn said:
Thanks Lazy Daze. Still waiting on the oscillating cutter to get to me. Once I get the fiberglass and wood out I'll see how that forward bulkhead (that appears to frame the box that the table base sets on) looks like. Feels solid with a screwdriver though. I'm actually surprised there aren't more threads on this forum dealing with this subject. Water in the area appears to be a common issue. Lots of causes (i.e. leaky plumbing, leaky shower, faulty sump, hatch or porthole leaks, bow eye leaks, etc..). Water must've gotten in there sometime in the past before I owned it and caused the decay I'm now removing. Since it's such a common issue and I'm not planning on re-glassing the floor I feel like I need to seal the new floor with something. This would hopefully be easy to apply. Any suggestions there. I want to make sure that any water that gets to that area in the future is held up where it is visible.
Click to expand...

Here can you se how it looks under the table bas in my boat
http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/installing-bow-thruster-260-sundancer.101899/
 
"Common problem". Leaking portlights and such are certainly not uncommon - but that's true of any boat or manufacturer. However, to the extent that it rots a floor in the Sundancers, as I mentioned above, is VERY much a rarity. As you noticed, the floor is basically waterproof so the water run down into that sump area below the steps. In your case, I'm guessing there was damage to the floor which broke the "waterproof" seal.

Yes, definitely seal the wood again... no, don't use Flexseal :) If you're not going to use some lightweight mat and resin, then at least use the resin, either poly or epoxy. Coat the wood with the resin and let it soak in for about 10 minutes. Coat it again. Keep doing this till it no longer soaks in - probably at least 3 or 4 applications. Essentially, you will no have a layer of plastic on the top of the wood.

Once you rip the carpet up, if you feel you need to seal the edge/perimeter of the floor, you can thicken the resin mixture into a thick paste consistency and squish it into any gaps. But, I really think you'll be fine with just repairing the part you cut out.
 
Lazy Daze, all good points. Thanks. Would sealing it that way be strong enough, or would it crack? Should I learn how to apply fiberglass? Oh, and you may or may not be taking it this way but don't think that any of my comments are searay bashing. I love my boat and have dreamed of owning a searay for many years before I finally got this one. I'm just trying to post what I'm seeing.
 
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