Sewing with Tenara Thread - Is it Really That Hard?

I did everything that you have done, no luck, still occasional skip. I noticed a correlation between skip and speed so i put a servo control on it and slowed the machine just a bit. Voila. No more skips.
 
I'm a novice's novice..... It's different and kind of fun but frustrating as all heck getting things to work right.
Part of the problem is sewing in June! When the weather is nice, I have no interest in even looking at the sewing machine.

January-February-March….that’s a different story.
 
Right on, that’s another consideration. I was thinking zipper foot attachment but having the ability to shift is great.

With the LSZ-1 sometimes you may need both the needle shift and the proper zipper foot.

-Kevin
 
Well when you get good, let us know. I can stitch up stuff that you could stitch into upholstery. Like "Your Name Here" in the seat back.
40 bucks got my boat name embroidered on to helm seat back panel
 

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40 bucks got my boat name embroidered on to hel seat back panel

While it's always a personal decision we usual recommend not embroidering anything personal that may impact the resale value if you may be considering selling the boat down the road.

If a potential new owner want to change the name then they are looking at having to pay to undo the "personalization" added before.

-Kevin
 
For 20 bucks the same guy made me a matching sea ray panel too, that was a concern I had too. Easy enough to pull remove vinyl re staple. And reapply

As long as the panel is not sew in it is not a problem ;)

-Kevin
 
I've actually been wrestling with the Tenara thread for some time. I made this Phifertex windshield cover (one of my first sewing projects) using Tenara thread and it has a host of skipped stitches and seams I had to do over -
IMG_4425.jpg
 
40 bucks got my boat name embroidered on to helm seat back panel

I guess he got paid. Something that size and font should only be about $15 to $20. And half being digitizing.. Most folks only charge $1 per 1000 stitches.
 
I guess he got paid. Something that size and font should only be about $15 to $20. And half being digitizing.. Most folks only charge $1 per 1000 stitches.
I was happy to pay him, not having access to that equipment I prob would have paid double.:cool:
 
I was happy to pay him, not having access to that equipment I prob would have paid double.:cool:
I just don't like when folks over change a customer. This is something talked about on the sewing forums a lot.

I have only had one person complain about pricing. He wanted a custom one off design stitched up on a Columbia fleece jacket. I got the $60 jacket for $15 with two personal coupons and the design was 250k stitches. I charged him $20 for the jacket and $.65 per 100 and he flipped out on the cost. That one jacket back took 12 hours to stitch. Oh well. He has been back for a lot of company stuff. He is a SEAT pilot flying on fires.
 
I just don't like when folks over change a customer. This is something talked about on the sewing forums a lot.

I have only had one person complain about pricing. He wanted a custom one off design stitched up on a Columbia fleece jacket. I got the $60 jacket for $15 with two personal coupons and the design was 250k stitches. I charged him $20 for the jacket and $.65 per 100 and he flipped out on the cost. That one jacket back took 12 hours to stitch. Oh well. He has been back for a lot of company stuff. He is a SEAT pilot flying on fires.
I get your point but after three months of learning to sew, and completing the project, the back placard piece was an easy expenditure. That same guy had done my buddy’s sea ray 310 seats and canvas for a ridiculous low price but they had a familial/cultural relationship. I was happy to pay it.
 
This morning I put together a couple of sample panels using the Sailrite thread with the DI needle. No other settings were changed on the machine. All looks good so I'll probably not use Tenara any longer and stick with this thread; it seems to have corrected the issues -
This is four layers of Sunbrella with 40 gauge O'Sea vinyl including binding over the four layers.
IMG_5697.jpg
 
I'm finishing up the bridge panels; this is the front just reinstalled. O-Sea 40ga. Larger zippered window using coiled #10 zipper. Sailrite PTFE thread with #18 needle on the LSZ-1 machine. The Sailrite PTFE thread has corrected the skipped stitch issues the Tenera thread had but it also has issues; the thread tends to fray as it goes through the needle and that fraying will ball up against the needle eventually breaking the thread. So, using that thread needs a lighter than normal tension and watch for the fraying.
I use seam-stick tape to hold things together and aid in waterproofing.
The issue is when sewing through the seam-stick the machine really gets gummed up quickly and after about every pass I need to tear it apart and clean it up; the hook and needle gets to a point it won't stitch correctly.
Is there anything that I can put on the needle and hook to help prevent the issue?
IMG_6453.jpg
 
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Can you use a smaller/thinner seamstick so you dont have to sew through it? Guess it all depends in the pattern/layout.
 
Can you use a smaller/thinner seamstick so you dont have to sew through it? Guess it all depends in the pattern/layout.

You actually want to sew through the seam stick. As the seam stick warms in the sun it will help to fill the stitch holes.

-Kevin
 
I'm finishing up the bridge panels; this is the front just reinstalled. O-Sea 40ga. Larger zippered window using coiled #10 zipper. Sailrite PTFE thread with #18 needle on the LSZ-1 machine. The Sailrite PTFE thread has corrected the skipped stitch issues the Tenera thread had but it also has issues; the thread tends to fray as it goes through the needle and that fraying will ball up against the needle eventually breaking the thread. So, using that thread needs a lighter than normal tension and watch for the fraying.
I use seam-stick tape to hold things together and aid in waterproofing.
The issue is when sewing through the seam-stick the machine really gets gummed up quickly and after about every pass I need to tear it apart and clean it up; the hook and needle gets to a point it won't stitch correctly.
Is there anything that I can put on the needle and hook to help prevent the issue?
View attachment 122943

The thread fraying may be related to the size of the needle and the hole getting gummed up. Maybe step up a hole size, readjust tension and see if that helps. I also notice that some threads always seem to fray worse than others even from the same vendor. Same vendor, weight and all anti-wick.

I will clean off the needle as I work with a little goo gone and a q-tip and wipe it down with a paper towel to keep it from getting too bad as I sew.

-Kevin
 
I was watching one of the episodes were they were adding solar panels. The guy recommended pulling the bobbin, bobbin cage and another part and wiping down with oil to help keep clean and avoid build up
 

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