Sea water inlet hose

Dustin Brewer

Dustin Brewer

Member
Sep 14, 2020
52
Utah
Boat Info
1999 Sea Ray Sundancer 270
Engines
7.4 liter MPI, Bravo III
Hello all! I have a raw water cooled 1999 Sundancer 270DA with a single 7.4mpi. The lower water inlet hose leading to the impeller pump is leaking just before the nipple on the pump housing. I am going to try and cut the bad section off and reattach it. There is not alot of extra hose, and its quite stiff. I have 2 questions. The first being whats best to cut the hose with? I was thinking a hack saw? I am replacing the starboard manifold this weekend, was thinking it would be easier to access the hose with that out of the way..

Second question, if this doesn't work and I need to replace it, where does it connect to on the other side? I can follow it until it goes under some of the steering components aft of the engine and I loose it. Does it go into the upper part of the drive? Any help you can lend me would be amazing!
 
It's stiff because it's a reinforced hose since it's on the suction side of the pump. It connects at the inner transom plate. It may just need to have the clamp tightened... or maybe the clamp has broken - the band, itself, over time, corrodes away and sometimes you can't tell till you remove it. But, if you are positive that the leak is coming from the hose, and not just dripping backwards from where the hose mates to the nipple and appearing to come from the hose... do not try to repair - replace the whole thing.
 
Appreciate the advice! I will just replace it. What is the best way to access it on the inner transom plate?
 
I believe your raw water hoses should also be double-clamped. If not already, add that second clamp and see if it helps?
 
Dustin Brewer said:
Appreciate the advice! I will just replace it. What is the best way to access it on the inner transom plate?
Click to expand...
On the 280 with the 454’s bigger cousin the 496, laying across the top of the engine used to work for me. On the Bravo transom plate the raw water hose attaches to a plastic fitting that resembles a domed old fashion engine thermostat housing. If memory serves it is 1-¼” wire reinforced hose.

What ever you do, do not remove the housing from the transom. It is held on with stainless steel bolts and the transom assembly is aluminum. Given time the steel and aluminum react and the aluminum threads corrode. If you remove the housing you might also remove the threads. Let’s just say you don’t want that to deal with.
 
Those hoses are not meant to last forever. Dripping should be an sign that rotting has likely occurred. If it were my boat I'd have them all replaced. Otherwise you run the risk of an unexpected surprise.
 
Measure many times and get the supplier to cut it for you. There is a stainless steel wire in the hose and it is hard to cut. I replaced one of ours last year it was $10 a foot.
 
This might be a good time to consider changing the system to a crank-mounted raw water pump. Impeller changes become a 15 minute process and you don't need to see your chiropractor afterwards...
 
Awesome information! Does anyone know how long the hose needs to be on my to 270?
 
Lazy Daze said:
This might be a good time to consider changing the system to a crank-mounted raw water pump. Impeller changes become a 15 minute process and you don't need to see your chiropractor afterwards...
Click to expand...
I am 6'2", mad props to the techs that do this work every day!!!
 
Lol, Pirate Lady, of I had more money and time...definitely!! I got it all done this evening. Bought blue line marine hose at a local hose shop, and used bolt style T clamps....the transom side was a pain!!! All done, starboard manifold tomorrow!
 
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