Sea trial Friday on a 1989 340 DA, looking for input!

nickdcj7

Member
Jan 5, 2014
234
Bass River, NJ
Boat Info
1986 390 EC
Engines
Twin 454 Mercruisers
So the 2-foot-itis apparently has a virulent strain known as 9-foot-itis, and i caught it. I just put a deposit last night on a 1989 340 Dancer. Coming from a 1991 250, there's a lot I don't know about twin inboards and all the systems, and I'd like to be sure I don't miss anything. Any insight I can get on things to check and look for would be appreciated. I'm also curious about what WOT speed and rpm i should be looking for, as well as best cruise speed and rpm, so I can look for that on Friday. It's more of a test drive than a sea trial, as the dealer hasn't finalized their sale of a new boat to the current owner, and I can't do anything "official" until then.

Thanks guys!
 
I'd say before you do anything "official" I'd have a good surveyor go through it and then be on it as well during the sea trial.

Mike
 
Nick, if you have the time, blast through the thread that Jim (moparlvr4406) just posted above. It has the good the bad and the ugly of being a 340 owner.
After your ride, post to that thread anything that might be 340 specific.

We will help where we can

-Mike

PS: +1 on the survey when it starts getting serious
 
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Nick, if you have the time, blast through the thread that Jim (moparlvr4406) just posted above. It has the good the bad and the ugly of being a 340 owner.
After your ride, post to that thread anything that might be 340 specific.

We will help where we can

-Mike

PS: +1 on the survey when it starts getting serious

Thanks Mike.

I have been slowly working my way through that thread. I have a surveyor that was recommended to me, I'm just waiting to make sure I'm not wasting my time before I waste his time and my money. This boat is a bit of a fixer-upper, mostly cosmetic, but everything I checked out yesterday was in working order. It appears to be mechanically sound, and that's my main concern besides obviously if it's structurally sound. The engines show 1100 hours on the meters, but the dealer says they've already had some major overhaul work done but the salesman couldn't say what, and I plan to ask their mechanic for more info on Friday. I did notice all new(ish) risers. The generator shows 300 hours, and they claim it won't start and they suspect its from lack of use as the owner says he hadn't used it for some time. The canvas and cockpit seats are in excellent condition, not so much for the interior.

The impression I got was that the dealer is basically taking this boat on trade for a 2000 460DA to appease the buyer, but they don't really want to be bothered with making it pretty. they were asking 9900 but accepted my offer of $7k. I figure the engines and transmissions are worth more than that alone. I just don't want to get slapped with a big surprise if I overlook something big.
 
Thanks Mike.

I have been slowly working my way through that thread. I have a surveyor that was recommended to me, I'm just waiting to make sure I'm not wasting my time before I waste his time and my money. This boat is a bit of a fixer-upper, mostly cosmetic, but everything I checked out yesterday was in working order. It appears to be mechanically sound, and that's my main concern besides obviously if it's structurally sound. The engines show 1100 hours on the meters, but the dealer says they've already had some major overhaul work done but the salesman couldn't say what, and I plan to ask their mechanic for more info on Friday. I did notice all new(ish) risers. The generator shows 300 hours, and they claim it won't start and they suspect its from lack of use as the owner says he hadn't used it for some time. The canvas and cockpit seats are in excellent condition, not so much for the interior.

The impression I got was that the dealer is basically taking this boat on trade for a 2000 460DA to appease the buyer, but they don't really want to be bothered with making it pretty. they were asking 9900 but accepted my offer of $7k. I figure the engines and transmissions are worth more than that alone. I just don't want to get slapped with a big surprise if I overlook something big.



Nick, if the moisture readings in the hull transom and stringers comeback 'reasonable' getting it for 7K sounds pretty good.
Everything that the surveyor finds you can use to reduce that 7K. Go through the thing first yourself with a fine tooth comb (sounds like this is your plan already).
Ask to go for a ride and have them throttle her all the way up for just a bit then cruise for a while (you might have to buy the gas). Have them run the trim tabs up and down to see if she hops up on plane. Look at the arch mounting points - yank on the arch. After the run, if you are mechanically inclined, pull the dipsticks on the engines and transmissions - pink tranny fluid and light brown oil is what you looking for. If you have light brown tranny fluid and dark brown oil........
Try to get service records - be assertive with this, you are about to drop some money and you want to know what you are getting.

If you get through this and dont have any serious resevations - set up the survey.
If the survey goes well hire a mechanic to go over the engines, transmissions and running gear. At 1100 hours on the engines, I'd do this.

One thing that really helped me generate questions for the surveyor and mechanic is taking pictures and lots of them - Good luck, keep us up to date.

BTW: WHO RECOMMENDED THE SURVEYOR???

-Mike
 
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Nick, if the moisture readings in the hull transom and stringers comeback 'reasonable' getting it for 7K sounds pretty good.
Everything that the surveyor finds you can use to reduce that 7K. Go through the thing first yourself with a fine tooth comb (sounds like this is your plan already).
Ask to go for a ride and have them throttle her all the way up for just a bit then cruise for a while (you might have to buy the gas). Have them run the trim tabs up and down to see if she hops up on plane. Look at the arch mounting points - yank on the arch. After the run, if you are mechanically inclined, pull the dipsticks on the engines and transmissions - pink tranny fluid and light brown oil is what you looking for. If you have light brown tranny fluid and dark brown oil........
Try to get service records - be assertive with this, you are about to drop some money and you want to know what you are getting.

If you get through this and dont have any serious resevations - set up the survey.
If the survey goes well hire a mechanic to go over the engines, transmissions and running gear. At 1100 hours on the engines, I'd do this.

One thing that really helped me generate questions for the surveyor and mechanic is taking pictures and lots of them - Good luck, keep us up to date.

BTW: WHO RECOMMENDED THE SURVEYOR???

-Mike

I did have the opportunity to run the engines for about half an hour at the dock. The oil looked nice and clean afterwards. I didn't check the transmissions, but i would assume it's better to do that after actually running the boat anyway. I don't think they're going to be giving back anything on the $7k regardless of what is found, it'll probably be take it or leave it.

And the surveyor was recommended by my uncle who just used him for purchasing a 2000 460da.
 
I agree with what has been said on what to look for. These are great roomy boats and we loved ours. There have been times I wished we still had it. Moving from a 250 will seem like going from a tent to a mansion.

For a price of $7000 it would be well worth spending whatever surveys and inspections will cost.
 
As a boatless shopper I agree w previous posts with one additional point you should expect.
It seems given your budget that you may be under estimating the ongoing costs as well as slip/storage costs for moving to this size and vintage.

Some times, not all, paying more for newer year ends up costing less. Not to mention less down time.

Im having this dilemma right now. My vision of boating is different than my wife's. She still wants to do the water sports thing, trailering around to different lakes, not camping or slipping. Thinks our youngest spawn will enjoy tubing - even though there's only little more than 2 months he's not on the ice w hockey.

My preference at this point is a 330 twin engine, V drives or straight inboards vs I/O's. Slippin and long cruising across Great Lakes, and hangin on the hook , cooking/grilling, sleeping, swimming/diving. And I'd like to transport to treasure coast Florida for winters so I can cruise Abaco, Bimini and keys.

Sooo I haven't pulled the trigger. But I have computed the real incremental costs of this size boat and I've got five thumbs so I'm not a wrench. Meaning I'll be depending on services/mechanic for most repairs and maintenance.

So my strategy is buy nothing now and hope son and wife come around to my way of things and buy newer more reliable rig and spend less in maintenance/repairs/updating on older gal.

I am referring to the boat ;)
 
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... But I have computed the real incremental costs of this size boat and I've got five thumbs so I'm not a wrench. Meaning I'll be depending on services/mechanic for most repairs and maintenance.

El Capitan brings up a great point here. There is almost nothing that I am not able to do on this boat as far as the mechanical and electrical goes.
I started screwing around with small engines and electronics when I was about 8 so I'm very comfortable (and enjoy for the most part) doing this stuff

That being said, the labor (had a professional done it) for upgrades, maintenance and modifications that I've done for the 3 plus years we have owned her I'm guessing would be over the 5 digit mark. Just be realistic in what you can (and you are willing to) handle as you make your decisions.

Let us know how things go!

-Mike

BTW: With a clean bottom, stock props, some well tuned engines and good conditions, at WOT I get about 34-36 mph @ 4200 RPM.
There is a guy on the 340 forum (who shall remain nameless) with Crusaders (20 extra hp) and no arch (still trying to convince him to buy one) that has hit 42 :wow:
 
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El Capitan brings up a great point here. There is almost nothing that I am not able to do on this boat as far as the mechanical and electrical goes.
I started screwing around with small engines and electronics when I was about 8 so I'm very comfortable (and enjoy for the most part) doing this stuff

That being said, the labor (had a professional done it) for upgrades, maintenance and modifications that I've done for the 3 plus years we have owned her I'm guessing would be over the 5 digit mark. Just be realistic in what you can (and you are willing to) handle as you make your decisions.

Let us know how things go!

-Mike

BTW: With a clean bottom, stock props, some well tuned engines and good conditions, at WOT I get about 34-36 mph @ 4200 RPM.
There is a guy on the 340 forum (who shall remain nameless) with Crusaders (20 extra hp) and no arch (still trying to convince him to by one) that has hit 42 :wow:

Same here and agreed. Being realistic, for $7k, the boat will need work. If you have to call a mechanic for every issue, you might go newer, or spend the $25k+ it would take to get one of these boats in better shape. Boats are just a lot of work, no matter what - if you want to keep them in good operating order. I think that point is underestimated, even by more experienced boaters. That said, we love our '89 340 and are really missing it this season since our lake is flooded.

You've come to the right place though, lots of good people here with a ton of relevant information for almost any issue. Please let us know how it goes!
 
Thanks guys. I am aware that the boat will wind up needing stuff, that's why I'm getting the survey to make sure I'm not missing anything major. I'm no stranger to doing my own work, and everything that's been done on my current boat was done by me, occasionally with some help. I've also built custom jeeps before so mechanical work is no problem. If I was calling a mechanic for everything, I'd be in big trouble with all the work on my current boat over the last 2 years. I'll definitely post the outcome of tomorrow's test drive. The whole family is really excited about moving up to a 340!
 
El Capitan brings up a great point here. There is almost nothing that I am not able to do on this boat as far as the mechanical and electrical goes.
I started screwing around with small engines and electronics when I was about 8 so I'm very comfortable (and enjoy for the most part) doing this stuff

That being said, the labor (had a professional done it) for upgrades, maintenance and modifications that I've done for the 3 plus years we have owned her I'm guessing would be over the 5 digit mark. Just be realistic in what you can (and you are willing to) handle as you make your decisions.

Let us know how things go!

-Mike

BTW: With a clean bottom, stock props, some well tuned engines and good conditions, at WOT I get about 34-36 mph @ 4200 RPM.
There is a guy on the 340 forum (who shall remain nameless) with Crusaders (20 extra hp) and no arch (still trying to convince him to buy one) that has hit 42 :wow:
:grin:
 
Just got done our demo ride. We didn't get to do everyth I ng like test wot. Everything went well though. We were doing 22 ph at 3000 rpm, 27 at 3500. It had a little vibration that was attributed to the props, but I was the only one who even noticed it. What made my day was the mechanic telling me that both engines had already been replaced. One was done 5 years ago and the other 3 years ago. What sucks is I have to wait until they close on the trade in on Thursday before we can schedule the survey.
 
Just got done our demo ride. We didn't get to do everyth I ng like test wot. Everything went well though. We were doing 22 ph at 3000 rpm, 27 at 3500. It had a little vibration that was attributed to the props, but I was the only one who even noticed it. What made my day was the mechanic telling me that both engines had already been replaced. One was done 5 years ago and the other 3 years ago. What sucks is I have to wait until they close on the trade in on Thursday before we can schedule the survey.
:thumbsup:
 
Just got done our demo ride. We didn't get to do everyth I ng like test wot. Everything went well though. We were doing 22 ph at 3000 rpm, 27 at 3500. It had a little vibration that was attributed to the props, but I was the only one who even noticed it. What made my day was the mechanic telling me that both engines had already been replaced. One was done 5 years ago and the other 3 years ago. What sucks is I have to wait until they close on the trade in on Thursday before we can schedule the survey.

Glad you got your ride in Nick. The numbers sound a bit off to me but not too far. The secondaries open on those motors at about 3000-3200 and I always tried to stay out of them for fuel savings. Were you getting you speed from a GPS? Also these tachs can get a bit funky and mis-read so I think the numbers are rally close. Sounds like the props may need to go into a shop. A Prop-Scan shop can dial them in and that may make all the difference. Good luck with everything.

Shawn
 
Glad you got your ride in Nick. The numbers sound a bit off to me but not too far. The secondaries open on those motors at about 3000-3200 and I always tried to stay out of them for fuel savings. Were you getting you speed from a GPS? Also these tachs can get a bit funky and mis-read so I think the numbers are rally close. Sounds like the props may need to go into a shop. A Prop-Scan shop can dial them in and that may make all the difference. Good luck with everything.

Shawn

The speeds were from my phone GPS. The unit in the boat doesn't work. I did notice the starboard tach go wacky at one point. It jumped up to 4000 with no change in throttle position or engine sound, then eventually went back to 3000 where it had been.

Regarding the prop scan, what does that normally cost? I'll start looking for a local shop unless there's a best place to send them somewhere else I should be looking for.

The whole family is really excited to get this boat and start doing some weekending instead of the short day trips we've been doing.
 
Hey Nick - Glad to hear that it is all progressing well so far.

I've had your tach problem before. On the back of the tach is a 4, 6, 8 cylinder selection switch (pot) - if you are lucky it's just dirty.
Just run it through all three positions about 10 times and then recenter it on the 8 cylinder position.

-Mike
 
Well, the survey didn't go so well today. He found moisture in the stringers, and he said the boat looks like it had been submerged, but the dealer denies that it ever was. He also said everything he touched was rusted out and all the electrical connections in the engine room were corroded and would need attention. The electrical stuff was not as much a concern to me as I could easily fix it, but wet stringers are a no-go.

So I guess the search continues.
 

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