Santa's Early Delivery - Some Assembly Required

[Windjammer]

Santa got off to an early start last week and delivered a new dock for our lake house. It's approximately 28' X 28' on the first level and has a 10' X 24' slip, cut outs for 2 jet skis, plus the upstairs area. It is also large enough that the 340DA could be tied up on the outside should we decide to bring her up from the marina.

Now the assembly part - naturally I will want to run electrical power and I'm thinking I should have the capacity for the 340DA if we want to leave it at the dock for a few days. It's right at 500 feet from the lake house breaker box to the new dock and wires must be run underground in conduit. Any EE's out there want to help calculate correct wire type/size? I've done some rough calculations and come up with either #1 or 1/0 copper to minimize voltage drop. 3% max ok? Not sure on the sleeving - THHN, EXAR, HYPALON, etc nor the correct size of conduit to use.

Thanks

 

[endless seas]

Pretty cool.

 

[BillK2632]

When we built our dock at Lake Tillery, the contractor wired lights receptacles etc, ran a new circuit from the panel in the house, same deal, had to be buried in coduit - I just needed lights and the lift powered, so they installed a new 20A circuit in the house panel. I liked that I could power down the dock from inside the house - not that we had problems, but now power, no lift, kept the boat safe. If I were in your spot, I think I would do two things:

1. Run power for a receptacles and lights etc.
2. Install a power pedestal like you see in marinas for your 340 and connect water to it (assuming you can do that).

Dock looks nice.

 

[dvx216]

What ever size for the amperage and voltage drop and if you can up size one wire size without a big cost do it.When you have the ditch open consider a water line and a extra 1" or bigger conduit with a nylon pull line installed for what ever down the road.Not sure what the scope of the job is but if you are having someone do the work for you make sure they don't run directly out to the dock without a junction box on shore .

 

[thegotoguyr]

In my work I often install sleeve and conduits. I agree, if your need one, put in two. It relatively cheap at the time. Once I had to field some complaints from the office that I was wasting money with 2. A few months later I got a call that they electrician couldn't get through for a gate under a concrete driveway. It got crushed. They were happy there was another one.
Recently finished a reno and installed potable water line and a power switch in the house for the dock.
Sorry, can't answer your questions, I would get specs from the electrician.

 

[Steve Craig]

Wire size required will depend on the connected load. A separate calculation is used for voltage drop.
Typically, at least here in Canada, a #1 conductor can be used for up to 130A, the 1/0 up to 150A.
Might pay to consider a direct buried cable with an armored jacket. Codes will be different in your area vs. mine.
That's a whole lot of boat to plug in.
What size & voltage is your shore power connection ?

 

[Gofirstclass]

Very cool. I'd beet you're going to have a TON of fun on that deck/dock setup.

 

[bahamabreisus]

Where's the water ?

 

[Windjammer]

Where's the water ?

We are on an Army Corps of Engineers flood control lake and they pull 15-18 vertical feet (which exposes a lot of shoreline) in the late fall/winter to make room for the spring rains. Apologize for the late responce but shortly after this thing was delivered, I was diagnosed with congestive heart failure. Followed by open heart surgery to replace the mitral valve - talk about something taking the wind out of your sails! I am currently in cardiac rehab three days a week, and hopefully will be back in action soon.

 

[wyrman]

Sorry to hear about your health problems, but glad to hear that you're on the mend.
I don't have a code book handy but figure out what your power needs are, that'll tell you the amperage then there's a calculation for voltage drop. Use copper with THHN insulation.
I found this online calculator that might help. http://www.southwire.com/support/voltage-drop-calculator.htm
I would highly recommend against direct burial cable, if you ever have a problem it is a pain to find the location and you'll be digging it up again.
If you have conduit and you have a problem, you just pull it out and replace it. Highly unlikely that you'll have problems with it in conduit.

 

[JC3]

Windjammer, Sorry to hear you have been a little under the weather. Glad you will be back in action soon and will say a prayer for you
tonight. You will be back boating soon and doing better than ever, JC

 

[Steve195]

................ Followed by open heart surgery to replace the mitral valve - talk about something taking the wind out of your sails! I am currently in cardiac rehab three days a week, and hopefully will be back in action soon.

Hang in there Jammer. I'm a little over two years out from 7 1/2 hours of open heart surgery to repair my mitral valve. Other than the scar, it's like it never really happened. You'll be back to 100% before you know it. And you can make up great stories about how you got the scar!!

 

[Windjammer]

Decided to contract out the steps and the riprap for stabilizing the shoreline, but with the fluctuating lake level, the generally miserable weather, the permit deadlines, and my weakened condition, there wasn't much choice. Having to rethink the electrical side. To stay within a 3% voltage drop over 560 feet, specs are calling for 3/0 or possibly 4/0 copper. A couple of quick price checks show about $3.00/ft, and for 120/240 60amp service, I'm looking at almost 7K in wire alone. Would probably require the local power company to install another drop as well. May just go with 120/20 amp service but drop another run of 3" pvc conduit.

 

[tdgard]

You could also price out two small transformers and step up/down to/from 480v. Looking at much smaller wire. Also no neutral for the long run.

 

[carterchapman]

Dave,

That looks really nice. Hope the recovery is progressing well...