Sanitation system updates and maintenance

[ttmott]

This fall the sanitation hoses will be replaced on my boat. It's obvious SR didn't consider these hoses as a maintenance item because (at least in my boat) are nearly impossible to access. The hoses were placed before the solon flooring was installed. I intend on replacing the hose with rigid PVC pipe and fittings with short sections of hose to the hard-mounted things.
Regardless, I was perusing to find tips and tricks on using PVC pipe and getting the hose out / pipe in and found this great guide on these systems. Thought I'd share it.
https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/SanitationSysPBB162AugSep2016.pdf

 

[bahamabreisus]

I know we have a different boat, but probably similar. We replaced our long hose that ran from galley area all the way to the tank, which is located starboard rear corner of bilge. Sea Ray had a tube that it ran thru. We put a double barbed hose connector between old and new. One person pushed the new and one pulled the old from the bilge. Was not to bad.

 

[ttmott]

I know we have a different boat, but probably similar. We replaced our long hose that ran from galley area all the way to the tank, which is located starboard rear corner of bilge. Sea Ray had a tube that it ran thru. We put a double barbed hose connector between old and new. One person pushed the new and one pulled the old from the bilge. Was not to bad.

The hoses in the engine room / lazzerette won't be as difficult but the two under the floor in the forward areas are another story. I sketched where they are and obviously tied to the stringers every several feet.

 

[Strecker25]

The hard pvc is a great idea and probably a wonderful upgrade. Keep us posted

 

[Skybolt]

Tom, You will love this once you get this done. The PO started this project and I completed it. Ultimately the hard PVC pipe was used to replace all long runs of hose, including bilge pump runs. I used EPDM hose to complete the connections, great stuff, a little more rigid then the PVC, but no more smell of anything.

Some of the long runs of hose had to be "Yanked" out, literally. Not the best approach, but wasn't going to pull up the salon floor to replace the hose. There were no wires going up that run so I thought I was safe to approach it that way. Worked out well for me, probably just got lucky, but happy none the less.

Great article you posted.

 

[Shaps]

When my hoses were replaced there was a point where SR caulked the sanitation hose in the rigid PVC pipe that ran from the ER to the Salon... Very kind of them.

 

[bfernald0]

The hard pvc is a great idea and probably a wonderful upgrade. Keep us posted

Wouldn't hard PVC be prone to cracking due to the flexing of the hull?

 

[ttmott]

Wouldn't hard PVC be prone to cracking due to the flexing of the hull?

I've looked at a lot of boats in the last couple of years considering moving up. The Nordhavn's, Vicem's, Viking's, Grand Banks and others all were plumbed with PVC, ABS, copper, or other rigid piping for the sanitation drains. Many of these boats with chiller-based HVAC systems were routed using copper pipe and tube for the chilled water. So, I think that provided it is properly supported there will be no issues.

 

[bfernald0]

I've looked at a lot of boats in the last couple of years considering moving up. The Nordhavn's, Vicem's, Viking's, Grand Banks and others all were plumbed with PVC, ABS, copper, or other rigid piping for the sanitation drains. Many of these boats with chiller-based HVAC systems were routed using copper pipe and tube for the chilled water. So, I think that provided it is properly supported there will be no issues.

Very interesting. Had no idea.

 

[ttmott]

Tom, You will love this once you get this done. The PO started this project and I completed it. Ultimately the hard PVC pipe was used to replace all long runs of hose, including bilge pump runs. I used EPDM hose to complete the connections, great stuff, a little more rigid then the PVC, but no more smell of anything.

Some of the long runs of hose had to be "Yanked" out, literally. Not the best approach, but wasn't going to pull up the salon floor to replace the hose. There were no wires going up that run so I thought I was safe to approach it that way. Worked out well for me, probably just got lucky, but happy none the less.

Great article you posted.

Here are a couple of pics I took going over how to remove and install. None of these areas are really accessable. Not shown is the line on the outside of the port stringer which routes under the mid-stateroom bed and the floor the bed is on then through the ER bulkhead on the port side; there are some hatches I can reach in and barely touch the hose. The mostly empty clamps in the tunnel are where I pulled the galley sink drain out to reroute it to the common drain then installed the HDMI feeds for the MSR television. So, I've found ways... That step-down in the tunnel is under the mid-stateroom so you get an idea of how tight this is.
Also there are a lot of low points in the system which I'd like to reduce.

 

[Skybolt]

Here are a couple of pics I took going over how to remove and install. None of these areas are really accessable. Not shown is the line on the outside of the port stringer which routes under the mid-stateroom bed and the floor the bed is on then through the ER bulkhead on the port side; there are some hatches I can reach in and barely touch the hose. The mostly empty clamps in the tunnel are where I pulled the galley sink drain out to reroute it to the common drain then installed the HDMI feeds for the MSR television. So, I've found ways... That step-down in the tunnel is under the mid-stateroom so you get an idea of how tight this is.
Also there are a lot of low points in the system which I'd like to reduce.
View attachment 131997 View attachment 131998 View attachment 131999

Dam Tom, that is a tough one for sure. Mine was tight as well and more then half the run could not be seen. I put a 1/4" nylon line on the end of the hose when I yanked it out from the head through the sump area that has a hatch. I couldn't use a straight run of PVC it had to be cut in half then I coupled it back together.

What are thinking of doing for the outside of the port stringer run?

 

[ttmott]

I don't know, yet. I found on the mid-stateroom bed that if I remove the mattress there is a hatch near the engine room bulkhead on the bed, then, unbelievably, another hatch below that to access in that area next to the port stringer. It ain't a very big hatch but I can feel where the hose goes through the bulkhead. I knew about the hatch in the bed because that is where I store a spare starting motor and alternator.

 

[ocgrant]

I am so watching this as this might be my winter project also. I too have some impossible spots to get to to make proper connections if I go to PVC. Need to find a way is the plan.

 

[Havana Shamrock]

Our 500 had the pvc throughout the ER never a problem with cracking or movement in the 6 years we owned her. Great upgrade.

 

[Skybolt]

I attached a 1/4" line to the hose when that was pulled out, I tried pulling the PVC pipe with it but the PVC kept getting stuck. I then ran the the nylon line through the PVC and pulled it somewhat tight and that did the trick, I was able to bounce the PVC pipe a bit to get around the obstructions. Took a bit of persuading but finally got it.

 

[ttmott]

I was at the boat checking on it and looked in the hatches under the mid-stateroom bed. It now looks like the port hose replacement may just be easier which I thought would be the most difficult.... Some pics for the 52DB folks -

 

[ttmott]

Back on this project - I received the PVC fittings and 21 feet of the Raritan 1-1/2 inch hose. Also I have an idea on the PVC pipe routing. Here is the big issue - per this instruction manual https://www.leesan.com/uploaded_files/datasheets/VACUFLUSH INSTALLER'S GUIDE 11016.pdf , the holding tank must be located below the vacuum pumps which SR didn't do on my boat. The discharge from the vacuum pumps runs down and along the stringer next to the engine then up and into the holding tank located in the lazzerette. This means the pump is driving the effluent up to the holding tank and the hoses are always full. It looks like I need to raise the vacuum pumps up about 6 inches and run the discharge piping near the top of the fuel tank - somehow... Has anyone even attempted to correct this? In this pic the hose going down the the fitting is the starboard system and the hose along the bottom into the fitting is the port system. The hose running down the stringer goes to the lazzerette then up about three feet and into the holding tank. This is going to be a mess.

 

[NorCalRobert]

I have been replacing the sewage hoses on my 44DB and they are routed the same way down low and vac pumps are level with bottom of the holding tank and the discharge from vac pump has to go uphill to the top inlet of the holding tank.

 

[Carpediem44DB]

That is such a huge job. I have electric toilets on the Carver with individual macerator pumps that moves the waste down stream to the holding tanks. There are a few runs that are below the top of the holding tanks so I know my hoses retain waste. Luckily the one of the POs had all of the hose replaced and there is non of the black rubber hose on the boat. There are so few straight runs that PVC would be of little benefit for my application. I tend to use long flushes and sprinkle the poopy powder quite often to keep the lines clear and clean. I am considering installing second lift macerators above the tank level to keep the lines clear.

 

[bajturner]

I had all sanitation hoses replaced with Shields Poly X a few years ago. Supposed to be good stuff. Any traces of smell are completely gone.

The original routing was followed. There are PVC conduits under the floor and to the back of the engine room, which helped.

Maybe you can use it in combination with rigid pipe in some of the more difficult areas to route?