Sanitation system updates and maintenance

OK, I spent the last three days pulling the old hose from the master head and getting the new PVC pipe installed. There is about 3 feet of hose and all else is Schedule 40 PVC pipe and fittings. Some of the minor bends on the pipe were done with a heat gun to eliminate glued fittings. This was in the "Really Hard Bag" of things to do. Some pics for those with the 52DB that would like a challenge.
From the Head down into the Tunnel -
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Through the Tunnel (the old hose was down on the floor, now the PVC is up along the ceiling)
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Up from the tunnel into the storage area under the galley
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Behind the Washer/Dryer -
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Through the engine room bulkhead. The open hole was for the old hose; it was in a really bad location, I still need to get it sealed up -
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To the Vacuum Generator in the Engine Room -
IMG_7048.jpg
 
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Tom which flex hose did you go with and why?
 
Tom,

If I understand your pics correctly, the 3rd from the top show 90 degree bend and one before the last pic (with an open hole) also looks like another 90 degree (to be added) bend. I don't know if there's an option, but I'd try avoiding 90 degree bends in the sewer plumbing.
 
Tom,

If I understand your pics correctly, the 3rd from the top show 90 degree bend and one before the last pic (with an open hole) also looks like another 90 degree (to be added) bend. I don't know if there's an option, but I'd try avoiding 90 degree bends in the sewer plumbing.
I wish but there are several 90's and 45's. All DWV fittings so they have long radius. When I pulled the hoses out they were kinked everywhere they went through a hole which would be even worse right?
 
I wish but there are several 90's and 45's. All DWV fittings so they have long radius. When I pulled the hoses out they were kinked everywhere they went through a hole which would be even worse right?

Ouch, I didn't expect that from SR.

It sounds like you're addressing this as best as it's possible, so I'm sure it'll be fine.
 
Ouch, I didn't expect that from SR.

It sounds like you're addressing this as best as it's possible, so I'm sure it'll be fine.
I'll be finishing up the installation today. The MSR head is up and running. It actually is working better than ever.
 
I'll be finishing up the installation today. The MSR head is up and running. It actually is working better than ever.
Tom - I didn't see it in your postings (or maybe I missed it) - what size PVC and Raritan hose did you use? Is it easy to couple them together?
 
Tom - I didn't see it in your postings (or maybe I missed it) - what size PVC and Raritan hose did you use? Is it easy to couple them together?
1-1/2 inch Schedule 40 PVC pipe, DWV PVC fittings and 1-1/2 inch hose. I used Dometic hose adapters (no barbs) which glues into any standard 1-1/2 inch fitting.
Today the project will be completed - thank god! I'll post some more photos later.
Hey, if you need four days of hard Yoga do this project.
 
Thank you for sharing your work. Well done.
I replaced my black hoses with Raitan five years ago on my sailboat which has one big low spot and have been very happy with it.
Should I need to do this project on my SR, I have one question. PVC is smooth and great to control odors but is it worth all the increase in transition joints that might leak? What have others experienced?
 
Thank you for sharing your work. Well done.
I replaced my black hoses with Raitan five years ago on my sailboat which has one big low spot and have been very happy with it.
Should I need to do this project on my SR, I have one question. PVC is smooth and great to control odors but is it worth all the increase in transition joints that might leak? What have others experienced?
Two things that comfort me on those joints and fittings. All of the large yachts I looked at had glued joints on rigid pipe.
Secondly, if a PVC joint is properly prepared and cemented that joint is as strong as the pipe and fitting - actually the primer and cement melts the components together so it's more or less homogenous. I took inordinate care on priming and gluing the fittings to the pipe. Plus, look at the systems that SR installed - there are quite a few glued PVC fittings in the system especially around the holding tank and under the toilets. The question to ask - is it worth the extra work even though considerably less costly to use ridged PVC pipe?
 
Tom, Great upgrade. It makes one wonder why Sea Ray did not use PVC to begin with since it would have been cheaper in materials and easy to install during manufacture. I am sure the answer is in the few hours of labor to cut and glue PVC segments is more than just laying and pulling hose sections throughout the system. Like you say, the higher end yachts use the rigid pipe where a few more hours of labor can be absorbed. I would imagine that if you hired a marine sanitation firm to do that project for you they would hand you a bill for $5000 min.
Cheers
 
Continuing - From the Port side head to the port vacuum generator in the engine room.
It's all up and running.
From the head to the outside of the port inner stringer
IMG_7075.jpg

Then along that stringer under the mid-berth floor to the bulkhead under the bed.
IMG_7074.jpg
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Then under the bed from the bulkhead to and through the engine room bulkhead
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Then into the Engine room and up to the port vacuum generator. I rotated the vacuum generator around 180 so the line could better interface. Pretty much everything on that wall needed to be removed and rerouted so it would all fit and work. The two corrugated hoses are from the forward bilge pumps and batteries are for the bow thruster.
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Then the discharge from the vacuum generators to the holding tank.
From and under the Port vacuum generator discharge then along the engine room forward bulkhead (the line under the bulkhead board) and under the starboard vacuum generator.
IMG_7066.jpg
IMG_7068.jpg
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Tie-in to the Starboard vacuum generator's discharge and aft along the starboard fuel tank/engine.
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Finally, up and tie-in to the holding tank.
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1-1/2 inch Schedule 40 PVC pipe, DWV PVC fittings and 1-1/2 inch hose. I used Dometic hose adapters (no barbs) which glues into any standard 1-1/2 inch fitting.
Today the project will be completed - thank god! I'll post some more photos later.
Hey, if you need four days of hard Yoga do this project.
I think you said you sold your company - I guess you had to to accomplish this task!!!

What a great job!
 
Yes, this is a great upgrade. The cost of the barbed hose is worth upgrading to the PVC when the time comes. Curious, you mentioned the system is working as good or better than ever. How many seconds does it take the accumulator take to go from flush Red Light to Green Light on each head?
 
Yes, this is a great upgrade. The cost of the barbed hose is worth upgrading to the PVC when the time comes. Curious, you mentioned the system is working as good or better than ever. How many seconds does it take the accumulator take to go from flush Red Light to Green Light on each head?
It appears nearly the same time to pump back down maybe a bit longer; IDK because there have been issues with the systems since I got the boat. What works better is it really evacuates the effluent. I can hear the pump running through the head which alludes the piping is clear. Maybe a lot the better performance is due to getting rid of all the kinks in the hose.
 
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It appears nearly the same time to pump back down maybe a bit longer; IDK because there have been issues with the systems since I got the boat. What works better is it really evacuates the effluent better I think. I can hear the pump running through the head which alludes the piping is clear. Maybe a lot the better performance is due to getting rid of all the kinks in the hose.

Just for reference my guest head works well, holds pressure for days it seems without cycling. That one takes 6-8 seconds to recharge after a flush. The Master head use to take 12 seconds or so when it was working well. Chasing issues with the Master not holding pressure for more than 30min or so. I plan to rebuild the toilet gaskets and hope that does it. If not the next step will be the hose/pvc upgrades.
 
Just for reference my guest head works well, holds pressure for days it seems without cycling. That one takes 6-8 seconds to recharge after a flush. The Master head use to take 12 seconds or so when it was working well. Chasing issues with the Master not holding pressure for more than 30min or so. I plan to rebuild the toilet gaskets and hope that does it. If not the next step will be the hose/pvc upgrades.
I wanted to follow up with you on leaks. It seems to me the number one leak point is the O-Ring between the pump housing and the vacuum tank on the VG4 vacuum generators like you and I have. Those four bolts that attach the pump housing to the tank must not only compress and seal that O-Ring but also both of the lower duckbill valves. The O-Ring takes a set and deforms preventing it from sealing very well. P/N 385311213
 

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