Replacing old stereo with a modern Bluetooth stereo. Need recommendations

[Scott Cunningham]

I have an old Clarion XMD2 Stereo thats beyond its useful life. I'm swapping it out for a newer, Bluetooth capable unit. Hope to use the existing speakers and amp. Does anyone have any recommendations on a good replacement head, or hints to getting it swapped out effectively?

Its on a 2003 SR 200BR, so that means the head is located in the glove box, with the amp mounted right behind. Looks like the head is connected to the amp by a wiring harness and attachment clip. I'm trying to figure out how the head is attached so I can get it out. Hoping for a replacement stereo head thats approx the same dimensions so I'm not cutting into the hull, and one that will work with the existing amp so I don't have to swap that out also.

A major issue is the wiring. On the old stereo it was impossible to operate with the engine running. It would create a massive electronic buzz that was directly linked to RPM. Rev the engine and the stereo buzz would rev as well. I'm thinking it is a grounding issue of some sort, but would like to ask others where who might know better than I. Not sure where to start on that one? Would I check grount at batter, the connection to the amp, somewhere else, etc.....

See pics below for the amp settings, the head front, and rear close ups. I can post addirional pics if necessary

 

[NespoJoe]

I installed a Fusion MS-BB100 and was able to keep my factory original amp. I also replaced all my cockpit speakers with Clarion 6.5" CMSP-651-SWG and sub with Clarion CMSP-101RGB (comes in 2ohm or 4ohm, so you'll have to determine which one you need). I've been quite happy.

 

[FootballFan]

Really like the Fusion we put in a couple of years ago.

 

[Scott Cunningham]

I installed a Fusion MS-BB100 and was able to keep my factory original amp. I also replaced all my cockpit speakers with Clarion 6.5" CMSP-651-SWG and sub with Clarion CMSP-101RGB (comes in 2ohm or 4ohm, so you'll have to determine which one you need). I've been quite happy.

I’ll have to research that unit.

Was the cable assembly from the amp to the stereo head compatible with the new unit?
Haven’t thought of new speakers. Just want to get the damn stereo operational first.

 

[dtfeld]

Get a Fusion, best marine head units around these days.

 

[Skybolt]

Get a Fusion, best marine head units around these days.

+1

 

[Ididntdoit]

Wet sounds makes a unit (ww-bt-rs) - it's literally the size of a rocker switch - it connects to your factory amp and speakers and connects via Bluetooth to your phone (or other Bluetooth device) to stream music - you lose a tuner, but who listens to the radio anyway? When I was contemplating the same thing, Wylie tunes pointed me in this direction...

 

[NespoJoe]

I’ll have to research that unit.

Was the cable assembly from the amp to the stereo head compatible with the new unit?
Haven’t thought of new speakers. Just want to get the damn stereo operational first.

A qualified yes...I had to enlist the help of a "techy guy" on my dock. I know we did not touch/change any of the cabling on the amp end. That being said, the wiring that came with the MS-BB100 was very well labeled, but I did not watch the final connections that were made.

 

[White Shadow]

If you’re just looking for Bluetooth then maybe try a Fusion MS-BT100 Bluetooth Module. It simply plugs into the RCA Aux Inputs and connect to a 12V power source, then you have Bluetooth connectivity on your stereo. They are about $80 (CDN). I added one to my XMD3 unit and it works great.

 

[Skybolt]

...Was the cable assembly from the amp to the stereo head compatible with the new unit?
Haven’t thought of new speakers. Just want to get the damn stereo operational first.

In general, there is a remote "Blue" wire from most head units that turn on the amps. Also two set's of RCA's that carry the audio signal to the amp, if line level is being used. If speaker level is being used then that will be the speaker outputs of the head unit to the amp's hi-level input(s). These are not proprietary cables at all. Anything new that is added should be done with line level inputs to the amp(s).

 

[The Bill Collector]

I pulled out my stock Clarion and replaced with a newer Clarion with Bluetooth. It was plug and play.

 

[dtfeld]

The buzzing does sound like a possible ground issue, but I had that exact same amp/buzzing, and I think the capacitor were going bad. I ran new ground wires and tried various filters, but in the end I swapped to a new amp and had perfect sound again.

If looking to update to something more modern, you don't need to spend a fortune. A new head unit and a new amp will go a long way. All in less than $500.

I just installed a Kenwood marine amp 4 x 45W for $110.

 

[Skybolt]

The buzzing may be able to be controlled with these, one for each set of RCA's: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LP4RMG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[mrsrobinson]

I replaced all of my previous in the cabin stereos with car stereos, not marine, and saved a lot of money, and never had an issue. Exterior speakers, yes, marine. I still do not understand why I must go with a marine head unit when my head unit is in the cabin. Salt air/water/environment you say? How is this any different than a head unit in a car that's in a beach environment 24 X 7? The Fusions look great, and I am sure they are all that, but why do I need "all that" for that much money when it's installed inside, in the cabin. For ~$200 I can get a nice Kenwood Head Unit that on first glance has all of the same features as a high end marine one.

Waiting for the rebuttals... and "Greg, you are an idiot"

And for those who run their stereo with the engines on, how and why? I can barely hear my own voice while on plane, yet alone a stereo. And I want to hear alarms, boat noises, bumps and creaks, and the like, not blaring music.

If you want a plug and plug marina swap out, I think this should do it for you: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_020M608/Clarion-M608.html

 

[Skybolt]

... I still do not understand why I must go with a marine head unit when my head unit is in the cabin. ... The Fusions look great, and I am sure they are all that, but why do I need "all that" for that much money when it's installed inside, in the cabin. ...

Waiting for the rebuttals... and "Greg, you are an idiot"

And for those who run their stereo with the engines on, how and why? I can barely hear my own voice while on plane, yet alone a stereo. ...

So the first part, the top end marine stereo's are zoned and also interface with today's MFD's and are basically setup for a boat or large RV. Where as a car stereo will not have or do that.

I am not going to say it, but ...

With the right amps, it is very easy to hear your stereo over the engines. I sometimes cruise ~10mph with the stereo on and I hear it just fine. And my engines are two cycle Detroit's, pretty much the loudest things that can power a boat and like you I am an Express.

When at cruise, I don't play the stereo, that's when I want to hear the engines and any alarms etc. Even though my dash will light up like a xmas tree.

 

[mrsrobinson]

Agreed to zones, +1 for marine. Agreed to interfacing with your MFD, for added cable running/labor and costs, +1 for marine. What If I do not need/want zones or an interface with my MFD?

 

[Skybolt]

Agreed to zones, +1 for marine. Agreed to interfacing with your MFD, for added cable running/labor and costs, +1 for marine. What If I do not need/want zones or an interface with my MFD?

I think they still make Boss Audio stereo's ...

But you still need a remote and/or a way to operate it if your head unit is in the cabin. I get you use BT, but even then how do you change the volume? And few car stereos have wired remotes.

 

[mrsrobinson]

I think they still make Boss Audio stereo's ...

But you still need a remote and/or a way to operate it if your head unit is in the cabin. I get you use BT, but even then how do you change the volume? And few car stereos have wired remotes.

+1 again

 

[techmitch]

Agreed to zones, +1 for marine. Agreed to interfacing with your MFD, for added cable running/labor and costs, +1 for marine. What If I do not need/want zones or an interface with my MFD?

I think they still make Boss Audio stereo's ...

But you still need a remote and/or a way to operate it if your head unit is in the cabin. I get you use BT, but even then how do you change the volume? And few car stereos have wired remotes.

+1 again

Let's not forget about the album artwork(+) on your MFD. So that's 4 +'s in favor of a 'good' marine head unit. So figure about $100.00 per + on top of the cost of your Boss or Kenwood head unit.

 

[mrsrobinson]

Why do I need to see Album artwork when listening to music? For another $100? Alpine and Kenwood would be my first choices, not Boss, or Pioneer

I am playing devils advocate of course, but I hope you get my point. $400 for a "marine" radio that's installed in my cabin doesn't make a lot of sense to the average Joe boater IMO.