Removing Water Heater
- Thread starter MichaelNJ
- Start date
MichaelNJ
New Member
Take a look at the middle picture. See the hose taht's disconnected? The nipple corrded and broke off. I thought I could pull it out and sweat a new nipple on to the copper tubing or else replace the whole unit. But I don't see how to get it out.
RonF
New Member
- Oct 4, 2006
- 410
- Boat Info
- 310 Sundancer 1999
- Engines
- Mercruiser Mag 350 MPI, V-drives
Yikes, Michael. I did this on a 310 but there was a removeable floorboard next to the engine and over the heater. From the first picture I can see the cockpit deck but can't determine if it's permanent or removeable.
Is that a fuel tank next to it? Can it be removed first? If none of these options work, then it looks like you have to take off the manifold and riser. Maybe a call to Sea Ray customer support would help.
Is that a fuel tank next to it? Can it be removed first? If none of these options work, then it looks like you have to take off the manifold and riser. Maybe a call to Sea Ray customer support would help.
Sea Ray 300
Senior Sea Ray Enthusiast
- Oct 12, 2006
- 612
- Boat Info
- 2005 300 Sundancer
- Engines
- Twin 5.0 liter with Bravo III drives.
Michael,
Not sure, but if that is the water line to and from the engine to provide heat from the engine, I would eliminate it from the water heater by looping the hose at the engine, and just use shore power for hot water.
Not sure, but if that is the water line to and from the engine to provide heat from the engine, I would eliminate it from the water heater by looping the hose at the engine, and just use shore power for hot water.
osd9
New Member
Sea Ray 300 said:
I second that thought.... :thumbsup:
MichaelNJ
New Member
Right now the raw water lines are bypassed at the engine. I really like getting hot water from the engine while underway. I don't run my generator all the time.
None of the cockpit sole is removable.
I can easily remove the risers but I don't think that will do it.
I really don't want to do anything with the fuel tank.
None of the cockpit sole is removable.
I can easily remove the risers but I don't think that will do it.
I really don't want to do anything with the fuel tank.
Sea Ray 300
Senior Sea Ray Enthusiast
- Oct 12, 2006
- 612
- Boat Info
- 2005 300 Sundancer
- Engines
- Twin 5.0 liter with Bravo III drives.
The water heater is a cylindrical tank mounted horizontally inside the sheet metal enclosure. If there is not enough clearance for the entire unit to be removed, then perhaps remove the enclosure, and the size of the actual heater should diminish substantially... :thumbsup:
The part remaining connected to the tank where the nipple corroded off should be a threaded fitting and removable/replaceable. I'm still not convinced that removing the entire water heater is the only option here.
I'm with you, though...I liked having the HW heater work off of the raw water heat from the engine on my 330DA. Lost this feature when I moved up to the 410DA.
** NOTE TO MODERATOR - Why is my signature not appearing on my posts? It is enabled correctly at my end. It is only this thread that it is left off.**
I'm with you, though...I liked having the HW heater work off of the raw water heat from the engine on my 330DA. Lost this feature when I moved up to the 410DA.
** NOTE TO MODERATOR - Why is my signature not appearing on my posts? It is enabled correctly at my end. It is only this thread that it is left off.**
tc410 said:
Whenever anyone adds a picture to a thread, such as Michael did above, it eliminates signatures and signature pictures from postings. It's a known bug but I have no idea when it will be fixed.
MichaelNJ
New Member
Sea Ray 300, TC,
Those are both good pieces of information and great news. If the part that corroded is threaded, and I can expose it by getting the fron panel off, this will be a relatively easy fix. I'll replace both sides.
But it will have to wait till spring. My boat is about to be shrink wrapped.
Those are both good pieces of information and great news. If the part that corroded is threaded, and I can expose it by getting the fron panel off, this will be a relatively easy fix. I'll replace both sides.
But it will have to wait till spring. My boat is about to be shrink wrapped.
Amberjack01
Member
I had this same problem with my 290AJ. Found the hose corroded off at the beginning of this season. I'm glad it didn't pop while underway :smt089 . Fortunately, there is very good access to the heater on outdrive Amberjacks. When I pulled the heater out it didn't appear as though there was any threaded fitting that could have been replaced so I replaced the heater. Also, if I remember correctly, the case was riveted on so removing the case to get to the internals would be difficult with your access. If these connectors are destined to fail in raw water cooled applications, it makes no sense that SeaRay would make removal so difficult! Hopefully "Customer Service" will have a good answer. Good Luck!
Dancin Dave
Active Member
That unit measures 15.75 " measure the head room over the engine less the riser, all you need is that space. I just did mine, it was a full 10 hour job. The units are very light once all water is removed. option, remove it in pieces and replace it with one of those small compact quick water heater.
MichaelNJ
New Member
I called Atwood and Sea Ray.
Per Atwood, the fitting is not threaded and the unit is not serviceable.
Per Sea Ray, the water heater is removable. They reimburse delaers for 1 1/2 hours of labor for warranty work. He said you can remove the riser.
Dave, why did it take 10 hours?
Per Atwood, the fitting is not threaded and the unit is not serviceable.
Per Sea Ray, the water heater is removable. They reimburse delaers for 1 1/2 hours of labor for warranty work. He said you can remove the riser.
Dave, why did it take 10 hours?
osd9
New Member
MichaelNJ said:
Hey Mike...did they mention how many hours they allow to put the new one back in ..... :grin:....just kidding....that's good news....now you have all winter to think about what else you're going to do while you're in there.....
Dancin Dave
Active Member
Hi Dom
my hwh is positioned as mikes is, however my access to the connections is restrictrd by dual racors and mounting, oil changer pump and lines and storage bin. to access the connections I had to crawl in and up and barely reach the connections. to access the mounting screws to the hwh 4 on each side to the hull floor I had to climb around the front of the motor and shimmy in behind the cat engine and almost lay on top of the hwh and the side of the cat, I also had to remove a portion of the exhaust tube and ss elbow, and there mounts. the rubber hoses which meld the bends on the exhaust have big ss hose clamps and have an adhesive used as a sealent, only by ever so tediously with a small dull screwdriver can you slowly probe around these 9" tubes, maybe 5" deep to free the seal without amaging the fiber glass exhaust tubes. the they need to be moved out of the way along with didconnecting grounding wires, throttle cables, etc for the removal passage of the hwh. draining the old unit to lighten it and then finally bringing the unit up to the ceiling and moving it up and out is quite a rubics cube challenge. no access over the engines. then doing all this in reverse.also there is a little head scratching involved figuratively and literally,ouch! clean up, and damage prevention, ladder removal, and so on.wire connections were very difficult as well. oh and then the fittings had to be swapped out on the old to new.
Short answer= limited access I actually only had the 16" of access for the 16" dimension of the hwh, and it was in a specific limited "airspace" area.
I dont wish this job on anyone. my engine room has mucho room and access, but I think they built the boat around the hwh.
thanks Frank Webster for the guidance.
oh Dom I'm sure I left something out.
:smt043
my hwh is positioned as mikes is, however my access to the connections is restrictrd by dual racors and mounting, oil changer pump and lines and storage bin. to access the connections I had to crawl in and up and barely reach the connections. to access the mounting screws to the hwh 4 on each side to the hull floor I had to climb around the front of the motor and shimmy in behind the cat engine and almost lay on top of the hwh and the side of the cat, I also had to remove a portion of the exhaust tube and ss elbow, and there mounts. the rubber hoses which meld the bends on the exhaust have big ss hose clamps and have an adhesive used as a sealent, only by ever so tediously with a small dull screwdriver can you slowly probe around these 9" tubes, maybe 5" deep to free the seal without amaging the fiber glass exhaust tubes. the they need to be moved out of the way along with didconnecting grounding wires, throttle cables, etc for the removal passage of the hwh. draining the old unit to lighten it and then finally bringing the unit up to the ceiling and moving it up and out is quite a rubics cube challenge. no access over the engines. then doing all this in reverse.also there is a little head scratching involved figuratively and literally,ouch! clean up, and damage prevention, ladder removal, and so on.wire connections were very difficult as well. oh and then the fittings had to be swapped out on the old to new.
Short answer= limited access I actually only had the 16" of access for the 16" dimension of the hwh, and it was in a specific limited "airspace" area.
I dont wish this job on anyone. my engine room has mucho room and access, but I think they built the boat around the hwh.
thanks Frank Webster for the guidance.
oh Dom I'm sure I left something out.
:smt043
- Oct 4, 2006
- 2,344
- Boat Info
- 2006 300DA Sundancer
- Engines
- 350 Mags / Bravo III
Mike, it would seem strange that the raw water connections would not be threaded...even if they are, I'm not sure you would have enough room to get at it anyway.
Dancin Dave
Active Member
stray cat,
the connections are for coolant lines , the hot coolant from the engine circulates thru the hot water heater heating the water with a heat exchanger.
DD
the connections are for coolant lines , the hot coolant from the engine circulates thru the hot water heater heating the water with a heat exchanger.
DD
Skip
Well-Known Member
- Oct 5, 2006
- 1,085
- Boat Info
- 07 58 DB
Truly Blessed IV
2010 Nautica 12' RIB, 40HP Yamaha
- Engines
- MAN CRM 900s
Man. Mike and Dave, I promise never to snivel again about getting to my gen set racor or the magnetic switch that controls the transom door/engine hatch interlock.
But I will still bitch about the lack of a day hatch above the engine room ladder in the cockpit deck. This oversight is just plain silly. My shrink wrap guy had to do some creative engineering with the shrink wrap at the stern to enable me to get the hatch open far enough to access the engine room.
Oh well.
Happy Thanksgiving, everybody!
Skip
But I will still bitch about the lack of a day hatch above the engine room ladder in the cockpit deck. This oversight is just plain silly. My shrink wrap guy had to do some creative engineering with the shrink wrap at the stern to enable me to get the hatch open far enough to access the engine room.
Oh well.
Happy Thanksgiving, everybody!
Skip
