Rebuilding the Sanitation (Pooper) System

[AKBASSKING]

While I am waiting on a HWH, I decided to start on the sanitation system. A few weeks ago I couldn't get the head to pump any water. I received a rebuild kit and it was pretty much straight forward installation. I found out why it wasn't pumping. There was a screw in the pump mechanism. Ran a new hose for the suction side. I put a 5 gallon bucket full of water in the bilge and placed the hose in it and man it drained that bucket fast!

Replaced the Deck Fill. Found my arm can still be a little flexible, but it hurts a lot more.

Still need to replace the seacock.

I installed a new macerator pump. Ran into an issue, so please sound in here. The pump would not run when the Admiral turned the key switch in the head. I took my meter and I was only getting 10.5 to 11vdc. So I rigged a wire with a fuse and ran it straight to the pump. I touched the positive side of the battery and it worked great! So the ground connection is good.

What do you all think, a bad switch?:huh:

Boy that pump emptied the tank quick. I had filled it full of bleach water.

Noticed the tank level lights still on full, so oh boy I get to tear into the tank.:smt089

 

[mwph]

2 hours & no reply so I'll say it....Pull the switch out, clean up the contacts & give it a try. Is the tank level light on that same panel? Perhaps you could look at that while its out.

 

[AKBASSKING]

2 hours & no reply so I'll say it....Pull the switch out, clean up the contacts & give it a try. Is the tank level light on that same panel? Perhaps you could look at that while its out.

The switch is seperate and mounted in the head. I just bought a new switch at Advance Auto for $11. We will see.

The tank level is in the head too. There is a toggle switch for that.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Does your thru-hull seacock have any electrical wires going to it? If so, it is wired such that it won't allow the macerator to run without having the seacock open (closes the switch).

 

[AKBASSKING]

Does your thru-hull seacock have any electrical wires going to it? If so, it is wired such that it won't allow the macerator to run without having the seacock open (closes the switch).

No wires. When the switch is activated, I get 10-11vdc to the macerator. But I will double check.

Curious, why does the seacock have to be open in order to pump the tank?

 

[Lazy Daze]

No wires. When the switch is activated, I get 10-11vdc to the macerator. But I will double check.

Curious, why does the seacock have to be open in order to pump the tank?

Mis-understood your first post - thought you were testing voltage at the key (possibly on the wrong terminal).

Why does it have to be open? I'll, sarcastically :smt001, answer with a question. What could happen if you activated the macerator with the seacock closed? :grin:

 

[AKBASSKING]

Mis-understood your first post - thought you were testing voltage at the key (possibly on the wrong terminal).

Why does it have to be open? I'll, sarcastically :smt001, answer with a question. What could happen if you activated the macerator with the seacock closed? :grin:

Well the pump is designed to pump out the tank. I have a manual head. Yesterday when I ran a "test" wire the pump started and pumped my tank out. You could tell when the tank was nearing empty by the sound of the pump.

I replaced the switch and nothing. Then I started to notice, the wires to the switch are of a differant gage of wire than the ones on the motor.

Question: Could it be that SR installed a relay? All the switch would do is close the relay sending voltage to the motor. If the relay was faulty that would explain the low voltage at the motor when the switch is activated. If so I wonder where that little bugger is? I hate tracing wires.

Man I wish SR would keep schematics... It maybe easier to just rewire it and place the switch in the bilge near the macerator.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Maybe I wasn't being as clear as I should of. Sometimes it's tough explain your thoughts when you've only got words to deal with. Well, at least to be able to do it without writing a book.

If your seacock is closed, and you start to pump out, that poop has gotta go somewhere. I would assume that the hose clamps would hold everything back. But, I don't want to do that experiment on my boat, 'ya know?

Unless, are you saying your macerator is plumbed to an above deck fitting only?

I'm not sure about the relay. I don't think there is, but not positive. I've never heard a relay click when I've used mine, but I also wasn't exactly listening for either.

 

[AKBASSKING]

Maybe I wasn't being as clear as I should of. Sometimes it's tough explain your thoughts when you've only got words to deal with. Well, at least to be able to do it without writing a book.

If your seacock is closed, and you start to pump out, that poop has gotta go somewhere. I would assume that the hose clamps would hold everything back. But, I don't want to do that experiment on my boat, 'ya know?

Unless, are you saying your macerator is plumbed to an above deck fitting only?

I'm not sure about the relay. I don't think there is, but not positive. I've never heard a relay click when I've used mine, but I also wasn't exactly listening for either.

Yeah sometimes it is hard.

OK from the tank, a hose goes thru a "y" valve. One side of the valve is the pump, the other is the deck fill for a marina pump out. From the pump it goes thru the side of the boat and overboard.

I am having a hard time seeing where the seacock plays a role here other than to supply the head with water. The head pumps water thru the seacock to the bowl, then I manually pump that to the holding tank.

So where am I not getting you point. You may have something I don't know here. I am hard headed.:smt021

I am going to try and trace the wires and if I can't then I am just going to rebuild the circuit, with the switch back by the pump. Man I could use a schematic...

 

[Lazy Daze]

OK, now I understand where you're coming from. I was thinking your set-up was (for the macerator side): head--pump--seacock--hull bottom (underwater). Meaning it would discharge through the hull bottom. So, if that seacock was closed, it would have to back up somewhere.

You were trying to describe your system, I had a different system in my head.

I think I'm on the same page as you, now.

 

[AKBASSKING]

OK, now I understand where you're coming from. I was thinking your set-up was (for the macerator side): head--pump--seacock--hull bottom (underwater). Meaning it would discharge through the hull bottom. So, if that seacock was closed, it would have to back up somewhere.

You were trying to describe your system, I had a different system in my head.

I think I'm on the same page as you, now.

:smt038

Thanks Dennis!!!! Now what the heck is wrong I am going nuts!

Hey I am used to working on fighter jets, a little more complicated. The T-33, 1950 era had a sanitation system on them. A funnel with a hose overboard......

 

[AKBASSKING]

It looks like I have found part of the problem. I found the switch goes through a fuse strip. One was labeled Macerator. It has a 30amp fuse in it. It is located port side below the steering wheel. Didn't even know it was there.

The strip looks pretty bad and the wires are corroded. I plan to upgrade the fuse panel.

 

[JVM225]

I don't know if mine is the same, I have an 87 30' Sundancer, but here is how mine works: There is a toggle switch mounted near the key for my macerator. The toggle switch must be in the on position to send power to the key switch. The key switch is like an ignition switch and needs to be in what would be the start position to run the pump.
This is my third season with this boat and I have never really used mine because I don't go offshore and have fairly ready access to pump outs, but I have turned the key for a brief second or two each season to make sure it works.
BTW: MIne is a manual head too, so they sound pretty much the same.

 

[mwph]

Is that fuse panel original?

 

[Lazy Daze]

You mentioned you jumped 12v directly to the pump, but did you try jumping around the switch?

 

[AKBASSKING]

Is that fuse panel original?

I believe so. I just ordered an updated panel for it and will clean it up.

 

[AKBASSKING]

You mentioned you jumped 12v directly to the pump, but did you try jumping around the switch?

Not yet. Now that I have found the fuse panel, I think the key switch may complete a ground????

It doesn't make any sense the way SR has it set up, but that is part of the fun figuring out the puzzle. This is an 86 model, so I am assuming they got smart and changed it with the newer models.

 

[AKBASSKING]

I don't know if mine is the same, I have an 87 30' Sundancer, but here is how mine works: There is a toggle switch mounted near the key for my macerator. The toggle switch must be in the on position to send power to the key switch. The key switch is like an ignition switch and needs to be in what would be the start position to run the pump.
This is my third season with this boat and I have never really used mine because I don't go offshore and have fairly ready access to pump outs, but I have turned the key for a brief second or two each season to make sure it works.
BTW: MIne is a manual head too, so they sound pretty much the same.

In my head I have the key switch and 2 toggle switches. One for the bilge pump (center ship) and the other, when you flip it on shows the black tank level.


mmm, just thought of something. Could it be that the tank level switch must be in the "on" position in order for the pump to work?:huh:

Dang I am at work today and have to wait until tonight......

 

[AKBASSKING]

Well I don't know what happened, but I removed the fuse and tested it with my meter and it tested good. I took some fine sandpaper and went over the ends. Pushed the new starter button and bam it worked!

Must have been the combination between the new switch and resetting the fuse. I am replacing the fuse panel.

Today I worked on the last portion the seacocks. Man those things are expensive. The head seacock was froze open and was of the old design, rubber center. I prefer the SS ball seacocks. The other one is for the AC/Heater and it was also froze open, in fact I broke the handle trying to close it. It was not a seacock, rather, just a valve. I could have replaced it with a cheaper valve from Lowes, but based on what I have learned here on CSR I decided not to be a tight wad and do it right.

The head seacock was straight forward. A little Teflon tape and it screwed right on down. I replaced the end on the ground wire.

The A/C seacock was a little more difficult as the threaded pipe was too long so I had to cut it down. I also made a jumper wire or it.

So a little clean up and another system done! The Admiral just got in some new countertop material, so that will be the next project. She also had the boat measured for carpet. She is happy she finally gets to get into the cabin and do some decorating.

Thank you for all those that have assisted me in this project so far. Looking forward to splashing it this next spring...

 

[AKBASSKING]

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