Re bedding deck rails on 99 400 DA

peterkvs

peterkvs

Active Member
Nov 11, 2012
511
Guntersville, Alabama
Boat Info
400 Sundancer 1999
Engines
3116 Cats, 1000 hours
i was polishing the non skid today and noticed that when I push on the deck rails that they move slightly. I figure that can't be good and they need to be re bedded. It looks like the head liner has to come out to get to the bolts. Stupid design. So how the heck do you get the head liner out? Or is there some other way to do this?

Thanks.

Pete
 
I think you will find that most if not all of the stanchions are outside the headliner and accessible thru the cabinetry at the outer edge of the deck. I cN reach all but those behind the head module. I didn't say it was easy,just that it is possible.
 
If you are talking about the deck rails running down the middle of the deck - the fasteners are definitely above the headliner. Mine also move a bit and I calked around them on the deck but would also like to know an "easy" way to access the fasteners.
 
ttmott said:
If you are talking about the deck rails running down the middle of the deck - the fasteners are definitely above the headliner. Mine also move a bit and I calked around them on the deck but would also like to know an "easy" way to access the fasteners.
Click to expand...
We took the temporary caulk route as well, and even went so far as to tie our Zodiac on the front deck under a cover, but this job is on my list for next summer. If anyone beats me to it, please take pictures! It is not obvious how to remove headliner without making a much bigger project, and I assume we will want to beef up the backing plates somehow.
 
I'm intrigued to hear how much "play" your deck rails have. The deck rails on my '97 are solid as a rock, but if you guys find water damage when you get in there to re-bed them then I'll probably do the same.
 
Frank, I was talking about the center rails on either side of the cushion. They are only about 14" either side of the centerline of the deck. Looking at the thickness of the deck and headliner where the hatches are leads me to believe the the headliner is pretty much tight up against the underside of the deck. It looks like a nightmare to remove the headliner. Hopefully it's much easier and you can shed some light on the procedure.

Z, the deck rails always seemed to be solid, but I realize that when I push down in the middle of the rail between the two stanchions that the stanchions would creak and move where they attach to the deck. So while they are tight, if they move at all I suspect that they are not watertight.
 
On my 390MY the center rails are simply held in with large screws. There are wood blocks glassed in to provide strength.

You may be lucky and not have to drop the headliner.
 
Pete,

Sorry. I misunderstood.

Now that I am on the same page as you guys, you are right, the headliner has to come down to access the nuts behind the rail. I think this will be a critical repair because these decks are cored. If the fastener holes have been leaking, you could be facing a major core/fiberglass repair. Replacing the headliner looks to be a scary job, but it is really pretty easy for a decent canvas/ upholstery guy. This one won't wait............
 
So I was looking around at the headliner and pulled the speaker/light fixture down out of the ceiling to see what was up there. I could slide my hand between the fiberglass deck and the headliner. It was sopping wet in between. That can't be good.
 
peterkvs said:
So I was looking around at the headliner and pulled the speaker/light fixture down out of the ceiling to see what was up there. I could slide my hand between the fiberglass deck and the headliner. It was sopping wet in between. That can't be good.
Click to expand...

NOW you have my attention! Please continue to update the rest of us and TAKE PICTURES!! Show the rest of us how you remove the headliner and what you find under it please!!
 
So far the only thing I have done is put both A/C units into dehumidify mode for a week. This is accomplished by simultaneously pressing the Cool Heat and Fan buttons. HU is displayed on the screen. When I got back to the boat the next weekend it was bone dry between the headliner and roof. At least in the only spot I can access. I am thinking I can peel the headliner off from one side of the boat toward the middle until I can access the deck rail screws, then re-bed that one deck rail and glue the headliner back up into place. Then perform the same treatment from the other side of the boat. At least that's my present plan.
 
Possibly consider putting light fixtures or other feature (additional speakers) in the areas where the mid fasteners are. That way holes can be cut in the headliner and then covered with something functional. Or, do something like what the speakers are mounted on and cover with the vinyl. This ensures future access. The aft attach points should be able to be accessed through the speakers and the forward ones by removing the window hatch, that leaves only a couple of more. Pulling the cabinets down to pull the headliner down seems like an epic task.....
 
The gap between the headliner and deck stops just fwd of the speakers, but a push-on cover like the speaker/light bezel or the one on the ceiling of the midcabin is an appealing alternative to pulling down the entire headliner.
 
peterkvs....

Your mailbox is full and would not take my quick note....PM me a good number and time to call if you would like to have a discussion on the how-to's with deck railings.

Hope I can help.

Rusty
 
Rusty, I cleared out my inbox. I sent you a PM with my phone number should you have time to discuss.

Thanks

Pete
 
please keep us updated. I have a 1986 250 and noticed the front color strip on the port side along the wall was damp a couple of times this summer. I guess its either coming from the railing screws or the rub rail. been thinking about how to fix it the last few days. understand its a completely different boat but should give me a general idea of where to start
 
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