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You can check for voltage at small wires when pressing the button and verify voltage at large wire (always hot). Then, bypass/jump around the solenoid to verify they are the issue. Correct - replace in sets - they're only about $20 a piece, anyways.
Drive may not be going down because there is air in the system (especially since you have now disconnected the lines). Double check fluid level. There could also be internal damage of the hydraulic ram. Once everything is electrically working properly, the system will bleed itself after x-number of up/down cycles (if there's no internal damge, of course).
You can check for internal damage by removing lines from the rams (outside) and manually lifting/allowing drive to go down by itself.
Impossible to get to screws... first, make sure you are accessing the bracket hold-down screws (into the fiberglass). Those are easier. And, yes, sometimes things are done "by feel only" on a boat with certain combinations of extensions for the tool.
it`s stuck because it was stored in the up position and the end caps have swelled from corrosion, O rings dont like getting compressed
You dont hear up using the trim button because your out of range, trailer button to raise drive when out of trim range.
The mounting plate is held by 3 screws on each side. When it doubt, rip it out . Once you can work on it reverse the hyd lines at the pump. You have more pressure using trim up, reversing the lines give you that pressure to try and lower the drive using the trailer button.
Once repaired never store the drive in the up position, if necessary remove the drive if you cant lower it