Power trim issues - 2001 215 Express cruiser

[PsyGrad]

Last year at the end of the season, I had difficulty with the power trim it wouldn't go up or down. Since it was the end of the season and it was up in the trailer position, I just left it alone, to tackle this spring. Well, here we are. Here's what I have seen thus far. I can get the power trim motor down to work intermittently (based upon hearing the pump, and taking off the fluid connections and watching it pump fluid), but it won't make the sterndrive go down at all (even when I stand on it to make it go down), I can't get anything for the up trim, I can't hear the motor work when I hit the switch nor see it pump fluid or move the drive. So, here my hypothesis. I figure at least the up solenoid on the pump is no good. So, I have to replace that. If I am doing that I might as well replace the down solenoid. Here's a couple of my questions: One, if the pump works in the drive down position when I hit the switch, why won't it actually put the drive down (which actually would be worse because then I couldn't get the drive up). Secondly, I can't seem to figure out how to pull the whole pump out of the engine compartment. the front two screws holding in place seem accessible enough, but the back one on the left seems almost impossible. Any thoughts or suggestions welcome. View attachment 69208

 

[Lazy Daze]

You can check for voltage at small wires when pressing the button and verify voltage at large wire (always hot). Then, bypass/jump around the solenoid to verify they are the issue. Correct - replace in sets - they're only about $20 a piece, anyways.

Drive may not be going down because there is air in the system (especially since you have now disconnected the lines). Double check fluid level. There could also be internal damage of the hydraulic ram. Once everything is electrically working properly, the system will bleed itself after x-number of up/down cycles (if there's no internal damge, of course).

You can check for internal damage by removing lines from the rams (outside) and manually lifting/allowing drive to go down by itself.

Impossible to get to screws... first, make sure you are accessing the bracket hold-down screws (into the fiberglass). Those are easier. And, yes, sometimes things are done "by feel only" on a boat with certain combinations of extensions for the tool.

 

[PsyGrad]

You can check for voltage at small wires when pressing the button and verify voltage at large wire (always hot). Then, bypass/jump around the solenoid to verify they are the issue. Correct - replace in sets - they're only about $20 a piece, anyways.

Drive may not be going down because there is air in the system (especially since you have now disconnected the lines). Double check fluid level. There could also be internal damage of the hydraulic ram. Once everything is electrically working properly, the system will bleed itself after x-number of up/down cycles (if there's no internal damge, of course).

You can check for internal damage by removing lines from the rams (outside) and manually lifting/allowing drive to go down by itself.

Impossible to get to screws... first, make sure you are accessing the bracket hold-down screws (into the fiberglass). Those are easier. And, yes, sometimes things are done "by feel only" on a boat with certain combinations of extensions for the tool.

Thank you! I appreciate the information and guidance!

 

[Bt Doctur]

it`s stuck because it was stored in the up position and the end caps have swelled from corrosion, O rings dont like getting compressed
You dont hear up using the trim button because your out of range, trailer button to raise drive when out of trim range.
The mounting plate is held by 3 screws on each side. When it doubt, rip it out . Once you can work on it reverse the hyd lines at the pump. You have more pressure using trim up, reversing the lines give you that pressure to try and lower the drive using the trailer button.
Once repaired never store the drive in the up position, if necessary remove the drive if you cant lower it

 

[Bt Doctur]

 

[PsyGrad]

it`s stuck because it was stored in the up position and the end caps have swelled from corrosion, O rings dont like getting compressed
You dont hear up using the trim button because your out of range, trailer button to raise drive when out of trim range.
The mounting plate is held by 3 screws on each side. When it doubt, rip it out . Once you can work on it reverse the hyd lines at the pump. You have more pressure using trim up, reversing the lines give you that pressure to try and lower the drive using the trailer button.
Once repaired never store the drive in the up position, if necessary remove the drive if you cant lower it

Thanks Bt Doctur. A couple of things that I want some more clarity on your post. You refer to "trailer" button. I don't know if I have that. I just have up or down. What does that mean? I reviewed the accompanying video, it would appear that the bracket in the video flanges outward, mine flanges inward, I only see 2 screws. Is it possible that I am not seeing some screws? or mine is different. But I definitely get ripping it out if needed.

If I disconnect the hydraulic lines from the ram, is possible to correct the stuck position? or would I have to replace the rams, or O rings?

Thanks for your help and feedback

 

[Bt Doctur]

On your control box are the switches for the trim/tilt. If the trim limit switch has gone bad and someone hard wired the up wiring the drive will raise all the way using the trim up button. Some boats use a seperate "trailer" button dash mounted
2 9/16 ths bolts hold the pump to the bracket, ususally 4 to 6 screws hold the bracket to the hull
Rams should be workable once you lower the drive and spray a lubricant on the cylinder rods.

 

[Bt Doctur]

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Techbk/97/97hs6.pdf

 

[PsyGrad]

Also, what's the likelihood it may be the trim limit switches gone bad? WOuld that prevent the drive from going up and down despite working solenoids/pump?