oh no! air condition pump died

sporters78

sporters78

Member
Aug 6, 2010
323
Stuart ,FL
Boat Info
2015 19 SPX
Engines
4.3 merc
on my 2004 340 da where can i get a new pump and what kind, the mounting brackets rusted out and the info sticker is gone:huh:
thanks
its 96 degrees today
 
I think mine is a "A.O.Smith" pump. But this is what I copied from my parts manual,
A/C COMP, PUMP SEAWATER 115V A/C COMP,

The part # is 956128 for the 115V model, so you can call Sea Ray with this and they should be able to help lead you to the right pump:thumbsup:
 
Thanks! but what about March pumps i can get those at west marine? marine max should carry the a.o smith one wounder what they are going to charge?
 

I had toreplace a raw water pump and it makes little difference about the manufacture.Just get one that you can power up on whatever power source ran the other one;I am sure that’s 110 Volt. The hoses aremost likely ¾ ID flex hoses. The raw water A/C pump is kind of a universal piece of kit. Make sureyou get a water cooled pump in that youhave a gas boat and have to cancel out electrical sparking. You can find several places over the internetwhich will help you out with advice and sell at very reasonable prices. You mightalso think about going up in pump capacity over the stock unit. Makes the A/C unit much more efficient.
 

They usually put in a 250 to 300 pump in a single A/C unit application.I would replace with at least a 500 capacity pump. Not that much more money and the hook ups willbe pretty much the same.

While you at it you might about adding a t-fitting in the flexhose a/c while you are at it. I set it up so I can do a muriatic acid flush in theinternal cooling plumbing of the a/c. That little procedure cost me over $150every time I get her done. I made a setup to do the job with no sweat or bother. Thirty minutes and it’s done. If anyone is interested I can try drawing up theplans for the wash out system and post them.
 

This a good place to get any kind of marine pump:

http://flagshipmarine.com/marinepumps.html
 
Thanks, right up the street from me. i'll take it out tomorrow in the am and send the wife to get one :)
 

and sendthe wife to get one

Damn!! Howdo you do that??
 
stephens013 said:

you might about adding a t-fitting in the flexhose a/c while you are at it. I set it up so I can do a muriatic acid flush in theinternal cooling plumbing of the a/c. That little procedure cost me over $150every time I get her done. I made a setup to do the job with no sweat or bother. Thirty minutes and it’s done. If anyone is interested I can try drawing up theplans for the wash out system and post them.
Click to expand...

Havent heard about this before. What does the flush do and under what conditions do you need to do it?

Jim
 

My boatis in salt water all the time. I usually have the A/C units on the dehumidifier setting. Means there is a lot of salt water gettingpumped through both A/C units. That leads to oyster and scale accumulating with in theA/C cooling system. Just like getting the boat bottom cleaned once a month; you have toclean out the strainers and the internal A/C plumbing every now and again. At leastonce a season my Air Conditioner dude hooks up a flush out system which forces muriaticacid though the internal A/C plumbing; dose not harm anything; just gets rid ofthe scaling. To do all this he has to disconnectone of the raw water flex houses somewhere short of the A/C unit; hook up the flushunit so the acid will be forced into the A/C cooling system; then flushed the acidinto the system; let the acid set in the A/C plumbing system for a minute or two;then flush it again until the water being discharged over board is clean. To make this undertaking a bunch easier I addeda T-fitting to my A/C raw water supply system. This allows me to simply hook awater hose from my flush unit to the boat’s A/C raw water supply. Easy and fastway to keep things cleaned out.

This is probablynot a big issue if you operate in fresh water; there is not a lot of water getting pumped throughthe A/C units or your units are relatively new. My last boat, 1997 Chaparral, hada single A/C unit; the raw water pumped failed while on a trip. First thing thelocal guy did was an acid flush on the A/C raw water system. The first thing I notice about needing an acidcleaning is how the glass one my A/C strainer looks. If it is supper cruddyand/or has oyster scales stuck to the inside glasses then I know it is past timeto do this procedure.
Ron

PS:
I apologizefor the strange spacing; or lack there of, on this posting. This is being submitted from an overseaslocation and there seems to be something strange going on between this sight andGerman satellites.
 
stephens013 said:

I apologizefor the strange spacing; or lack there of, on this posting. This is being submitted from an overseaslocation and there seems to be something strange going on between this sight andGerman satellites.
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Click to expand...


Thanks for the info. In brackish water here in the Chesapeake, so I'll keep an eye on my strainer to see how cruddy it becomes. Good info though.

P.S. Thats the Germans trying to tap into your engineering specs for the T-Fitting... They'll take the simple solution and then over-engineer it, and sell it for 3x as much!
 
easy repair except for the tight space, replaced the rusted out old one with a March 500gpm pump LC-3CP-MD 115v
 
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