After reading about a hundred threads on cleaning, polishing, and waxing im afraid to touch it!! I have a 2011 185sp and would like to get her ready for summer. This WAS my plan. I was going give it a good wash(as I always do) with some starbrite boat wash. I have some minor scratches at the bow from the original roller I was going to use some 3m compound on. I have some Starbrite polish and wax products and a Meguires "all in one"(#20 I think.) Not sure which of these is best, time will tell I guess. Did not think detailing a boat would be so intimidating! Probably over thinking it all, just don't want to destroy my gel coat.
Officially terrified to wax boat now!
- Thread starter Shaun77
- Start date
Paulie Walnuts
New Member
I just waxed my 1983 SRV210CC. The gelcoat was getting chalky. The key is to make sure it's clean with just soap and water with a good rinse. I need a few gelcoat repairs that are minor. After research I've determined Gelcoat is not a paint but more like a thin bondo that is polishible. I really don't think you will hurt it. Just do the polish early in the morning or later in the afternoon when the sun is going down. Do it in sections at a time. The first coat is the hardest just like painting. It will get easier from there.
If I can do it on an 86 then your not going to have any problems.
If I can do it on an 86 then your not going to have any problems.
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magstang1
Active Member
Has anyone ever actually seen gelcoat damaged by waxing?
I think it's a myth started by companies selling orbital buffers.
If I can wheel away with a single axis high speed polisher and rubbing compound, I'll bet money that you are going to be just fine.
I think it's a myth started by companies selling orbital buffers.
If I can wheel away with a single axis high speed polisher and rubbing compound, I'll bet money that you are going to be just fine.
Paulie Walnuts
New Member
I was watching Counting cars the other night. From what I can tell its extremely absorbent and the only way to screw it up is to try and paint over it. The more wax and buffing you do the better it will shine.
Most of the bad experiences I've been reading about sounded like there was heavy compounding involved trying to "bring back" that 'ole shine. Paulie, you mentioned that gelcoat is absorbent, I read some reviews on waxes that the gelcoat did just that and absorbed like a thick layer of wax. I have no oxidation or hazing, just some fine scuff marks here and there. So if I dumb this down for me I would just do a light compound on the the areas that needed it, then polish, then wax? The Meguires I mentioned was #50. Any experience with "all in ones"? Still waiting on my polisher but a couple different pads for the job, a shady carport, a full YETI and I'm good to go?
ziekman@cox.net
Active Member
Shaun sounds like you have a good handle on it. Follow the instructions on the labels of your products and go for it. You will be fine. Your boat is still pretty new, and unless you have some serious issues to begin with, you don't need to reinvent the process. Go for it, and send pics of your shining hull please!!
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
KC_Sundancer
Active Member
- Sep 8, 2009
- 1,341
- Boat Info
- 1985 270DA Sundancer,Simrad 4G Radar,Lowrance Gen2 GPS/Sonar/Structure Scan,F350 7.3l Diesel, tri-ax
- Engines
- twin Mercruiser 185R's (v6's) w/SE106 drives, "High Five" stainless props, Mercury 280 RIB w/9.9 Mer
I'll second that - go for it.
The Pachanga we had was horrible with the dark blue gelcoat around the perimeter of the deck. It had to be polished every 6 months and was done for 10 years with no problems, even wet sanded a few times.
Only issue I ever had was once trying a Mequires Carnauba auto wax on the final step and had difficulty getting a nice glossy finish. Had to polish it out and start over.
On our 270DA, now that the years of chalk have been removed I just use the starbrite polish wax with good results.
Like everyone's saying it's very durable - have fun :thumbsup:
Alegria
Well-Known Member
I agree with Mustang. I have been doing my rather old circa 1997 boat for several season and I can use a wool pad and a rotary wheel and not see any thing close to an issue, the boat takes on a shine and you stop. Most of the marine products that you see are are I believe they call a diminishing compound meaning the heat and friction of the wheel break down the compound and make it less abrasive leaving you much less chance for damage. Take is slow at first and you will be fine. I really like the Mequiers #67.
Bob & Sue
Active Member
I just re bedded all the portlights the PO had a ring of about 1" caulk all around them that wouldn't come off with acetone or any other remover, I spoke to Mecguiars the said to use a 3000 grit sanding pad first then goto their deep cut compound. Sanding it then going to the deep cut was scary but it worked great I had to get really aggressive with it that gelcoat will take a lot.
kaz911
Active Member
I like the 3M products 
and did my boat this year with a Makita polisher. And what a difference it made from my RO polisher results. After 5 years in florida - the gelcoat looks brand new. And it was first time using a "real" polishing machine. My dad helped for a part of it - and he liked the Makita so much he confiscated it.
First for your scratches - 3M rubbing compound if they are deep.
And since rest of boat is possibly still very nice - a very quick run over with 3M Finesse IT II to get the factory shine back
And then a polish of your choice. I like 3M Ultra Performance wax - easy on - and residue comes off very easy.
I just used Finesse IT II on mine plus the 3M wax - and it looks almost new.
and did my boat this year with a Makita polisher. And what a difference it made from my RO polisher results. After 5 years in florida - the gelcoat looks brand new. And it was first time using a "real" polishing machine. My dad helped for a part of it - and he liked the Makita so much he confiscated it.First for your scratches - 3M rubbing compound if they are deep.
And since rest of boat is possibly still very nice - a very quick run over with 3M Finesse IT II to get the factory shine back
And then a polish of your choice. I like 3M Ultra Performance wax - easy on - and residue comes off very easy.
I just used Finesse IT II on mine plus the 3M wax - and it looks almost new.
Regardless of which products you use, you can find some very good how to tips on You Tube. Watching someone polish a boat first (via the videos) is very helpful. Shurhold Industries has a lot of how to videos on their web site as well. http://shurhold.com/
Dave
Dave
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
Absolutely. It can be done easily on fiberglass if not paying attention. Normally it's because there is build up material on a wool pad on a rotary buffer. Staying in one spot too long causes the fiberglass to get too hot and burn. The other potential problem is using an aggressive compound and not minding how aggressive you're being. It can go through the gel coat.
It's really not that hard if you pay attention and as mentioned above, follow the instructions.
To the OP, I really think the thread I started a couple years ago has the best advice that many others chimed in on. I have changed what products I used. I use my Makita Rotary 9227C with 3M Super Duty compound on any oxidized areas, followed by 3M Finesse it II on the same machine but dedicated synthetic wool pad (use new pads for each different product). I use Starbrite Polish with PTEF on a Porter Cable 9424 random orbital with a foam polishing pad. I remove all of these different products with a terry bonnet (again dedicated to the product so as to not cross contaminate; you want to keep the shine you're working towards) over the foam pad.
The following is a long thread but worth it if you're looking for good content about polishing. If you could have seen my boat when I bought it compared to now, you'd understand. It was an amazing and satisfying transformation.
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.ph...nd-After?highlight=Polishing+before+and+after
Paulie Walnuts
New Member
I used this last week. It's a polish but it did pretty good considering the oxidation I had.
I just bought some 3M step 1 rubbing compound and wax and I'm going to get a buffing wheel and try this next week. The 3M is much cheaper than the Miguires. After I used the 3M I may hit it with the polish again.
I just bought some 3M step 1 rubbing compound and wax and I'm going to get a buffing wheel and try this next week. The 3M is much cheaper than the Miguires. After I used the 3M I may hit it with the polish again.
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Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
I think you'd be really happy if you try some 3M Finesse it II on a rotary buffer then to Flagship and and random orbital.
I did this '87 Seville last summer for a friend. It turned out amazing.
Paulie Walnuts
New Member
I think you'd be really happy if you try some 3M Finesse it II on a rotary buffer then to Flagship and and random orbital.
I did this '87 Seville last summer for a friend. It turned out amazing.
The Fenesse it 11, is that a Polish? I'll have to look for it next time I'm at the boat store.
The Boat above looks brand new. Nice Job!
SteveRuss
Member
- Jan 25, 2011
- 191
- Boat Info
- 2000 280 Sunsport
- Engines
- Twin 5.7L EFI w/Bravo I Drives
The 3m restorer & wax is an exceptional product but I doubt you need it on a 2 year old boat. I used it with a wool pad on a rotary buffer on a 10yr old 215EC that showed some oxidation. Afterward, you could shave in the refelection it gave off. Flagship is great on newer gel coat as it contains less abrasive polishes and colonite fleet wax is also very good. I keep a paint stirrer handy when I use the rotary and every once in a while clean off the build up on the pad. I also hand apply the polish or wax and use the wheel to polish and remove. never more than 3500 rpms and never stop moving.
Nehalennia
Well-Known Member
- Aug 22, 2007
- 10,006
- Boat Info
- 2001 310DA twin 350 MAGs, Westerbeke 4.5KW
- Engines
- Twin 350 MAG V-drives
It is an intermediate compound with diminishing abrasives. This means it starts out more aggressive and the abrasives will break down as you're using it yielding a great shine. Then next step would be a polish, then your Flagship wax.
If you have more serious oxidation (like the boat I pictured did) start with 3M Super Duty compound as the first step before the Finesse It II.
dpmulvey
Active Member
- Dec 19, 2007
- 4,188
- Boat Info
- 1999/2007 330 Sundancer Hardtop.
- Engines
- 6.2 Merc Horixons
1.5:1 Velvet Drives
My personal choices. First, Aurora Products. Next Buff Magic followed by either Pro Polish or Rejex or both.
ZZ13
Well-Known Member
On a boat that new I would first do the whole boat with only a good cleaner wax, like Meguiar's Flagship Cleaner wax. That should take out whatever oxidation you have an make it sparkle like new, especially if you are keeping the boat out of the water and covered (heck, my 2009 175 is garage kept and I have never waxed it - I just hose it down real good and wipe it dry and stick it back in the garage - gelcoat still looks brand new). If you have spots after that which you aren't happy with, then go to more aggressive stuff in those areas. I personally follow the "better is the evil of good enough" philosophy on gelcoat. Others prefer to go at it until its better than show room shiny.
