Official Cummins 6cta 450C thread

Just replaced my port alternator on 400DB (the easy one to get to). Started overcharging erratically between 14-16v. It was a 10 year old $450 sbmar (Seaboard Marine) part purchased new. Local shop says total salt air corrosion failure internally. Had to be scrapped. Replaced with $163 spare bought new 7 years ago. Shop told me I wasn’t too bright to pay $450 for something they could get three of for me at that price.
 
ZZ13 said:
Just replaced my port alternator on 400DB (the easy one to get to). Started overcharging erratically between 14-16v. It was a 10 year old $450 sbmar (Seaboard Marine) part purchased new. Local shop says total salt air corrosion failure internally. Had to be scrapped. Replaced with $163 spare bought new 7 years ago. Shop told me I wasn’t too bright to pay $450 for something they could get three of for me at that price.
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There is the issue with substandard (like Chinese) parts used in third party knockoffs and rebuilds. Things like bearings, brushes, regulators, and rectifiers have less than stellar quality and reliability.
If, on the other hand, your supplier is offering an OEM Delco alternator then that's another story. A little paint and you're there.
Battery banks are expensive as well as marine electronics - no sense in my mind putting them at risk.
 
ttmott said:
There is the issue with substandard (like Chinese) parts used in third party knockoffs and rebuilds. Things like bearings, brushes, regulators, and rectifiers have less than stellar quality and reliability.
If, on the other hand, your supplier is offering an OEM Delco alternator then that's another story. A little paint and you're there.
Battery banks are expensive as well as marine electronics - no sense in my mind putting them at risk.
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Does painting the alternator do anything to protect the guts? I never painted this one.
 
ZZ13 said:
Just replaced my port alternator on 400DB (the easy one to get to). Started overcharging erratically between 14-16v. It was a 10 year old $450 sbmar (Seaboard Marine) part purchased new. Local shop says total salt air corrosion failure internally. Had to be scrapped. Replaced with $163 spare bought new 7 years ago. Shop told me I wasn’t too bright to pay $450 for something they could get three of for me at that price.
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I couldn’t see why Seaboard sells them for so much. The bless they last longer. I think they are double that now. Granted my 2 less than 2 year old $180 160 amp ones both died. I was still able to get them fixed for under $200.
 
Irie308 said:
I couldn’t see why Seaboard sells them for so much. The bless they last longer. I think they are double that now. Granted my 2 less than 2 year old $180 160 amp ones both died. I was still able to get them fixed for under $200.
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Yup. But I’m not complaining that I got ten years out of it in this coastal environment. Just about everything on my boat seems to go at 10 years.
 
Irie308 said:
I couldn’t see why Seaboard sells them for so much. The bless they last longer. I think they are double that now. Granted my 2 less than 2 year old $180 160 amp ones both died. I was still able to get them fixed for under $200.
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He’s selling the 160a 22si (same one I bought) for $995 now. My local guy will sell me four for that price and I’d have $100 left over.
 
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ZZ13 said:
Well, I went hunting. I found everything but the overtemp switch. I found oil pressure sender, oil pressure alarm switch (both right behind aftercooler), temp sender (just aft of alternator) and tach pickup (on top of bell housing). But not that darn overtemp switch. Looks like I have to take off the belt guard and see if it’s somewhere near the t-stats, although I don’t see any wires coming out of that area. .
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I finally found that coolant overtemp switch. It’s just forward of the starter. A filter bracket blocks my view of it.
 
Hey Guys, not sure if this has been discussed before but how often do you change your water filters? Is there a time (i.e. annually) or number of hours? If you do change them do you get a water analysis first? Any info would be greatly appreciated. My boat is a 2001 with the 450 hp 6CTA's.

Thanks!
 
Captain Brian said:
Hey Guys, not sure if this has been discussed before but how often do you change your water filters? Is there a time (i.e. annually) or number of hours? If you do change them do you get a water analysis first? Any info would be greatly appreciated. My boat is a 2001 with the 450 hp 6CTA's.

Thanks!
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Water filter?
 
Captain Brian said:
Hey Guys, not sure if this has been discussed before but how often do you change your water filters? Is there a time (i.e. annually) or number of hours? If you do change them do you get a water analysis first? Any info would be greatly appreciated. My boat is a 2001 with the 450 hp 6CTA's.

Thanks!
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I don’t remember hours but it’s in the manual if you are talking coolant filters
 
Blueone said:
I don’t remember hours but it’s in the manual if you are talking coolant filters
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I test the coolant annually with the test strip and change the coolant filter based on the test results. If the results say the current filter is fine I will run it a second year. But never a third year.
 
ZZ13 said:
I test the coolant annually with the test strip and change the coolant filter based on the test results. If the results say the current filter is fine I will run it a second year. But never a third year.
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If I recall there are different filters that either add additive and others that don’t….. but what ever check the coolant with the strips regularly
 
Yes, coolant filter. Where do you get the test strips?
 
Hi guys - here's an interesting one.
I have 2 x 480ce's installed. Have just had valve adjustments done (all good) / fuel filters replaced, air filters cleaned and all belts replaced. Service was done approx 5 months ago and boat was put back in water 2 weeks ago after paint / prop speed.
Idled out to open water - oil pressures / engine temps all good. Powered up, Port engine spooled up to 2,200 nicely... strbd would only get to 1,600ish and no further. Plenty of black smoke from strbd exhaust, no discernable turbo whine. Dropped both back to approx 1,200rpm and ran at 10 knots. Have checked cruise button and this is off. Any places I can get my mechanic to start looking?
Thanks
 
Clinton Skinner said:
Hi guys - here's an interesting one.
I have 2 x 480ce's installed. Have just had valve adjustments done (all good) / fuel filters replaced, air filters cleaned and all belts replaced. Service was done approx 5 months ago and boat was put back in water 2 weeks ago after paint / prop speed.
Idled out to open water - oil pressures / engine temps all good. Powered up, Port engine spooled up to 2,200 nicely... strbd would only get to 1,600ish and no further. Plenty of black smoke from strbd exhaust, no discernable turbo whine. Dropped both back to approx 1,200rpm and ran at 10 knots. Have checked cruise button and this is off. Any places I can get my mechanic to start looking?
Thanks
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Black smoke is unburned fuel in your exhaust - usually it means not enough air is getting into cause combustion. The likely culprit is restricted airflow. I would start with the filters, of course. Make sure they are clean. Make sure they are installed properly. Was any other part of the air flow taken apart during the service? Check all the hoses and the clamps to make sure no leaks. Leaks reduce air pressure and result in lower air into the engine. Make sure there are no blockages in the intake vents or hoses.

Next, check your exhaust. If your boat was out of the water for the winter, is it possible a critter built a nest in your exhaust? Excessive back pressure due to a blocked exhaust can also cause black smoke and reduced performance.

You said the turbo didn't spin up. I don't remember at what rpm the turbo kicks in, so if you aren't getting there check the belt and make sure it is installed and routed correctly. If you are getting high enough RPMs and it's not turning on, it's may be a bad turbo.

Those are just a couple easy things to check. Like you, I like to understand what's going on, too. But your mechanic will know all of this and more. If he doesn't know how to diagnose black smoke from a diesel, get a new mechanic.
 
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