Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

Senders are standard VDO temp (250*) and pressure (0-400 psi) senders. They were specific to my analog-digital converter, as they had a predefined calibration file.

My converter is a Seagauge G2 from Chetco Digital. This is definitely in the advanced category…it was a lot of work and a huge learning curve to get it all set up and calibrated. If doing just a few senders, I’d look at Maretron. They have a temperature module and a fluid pressure module.

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Maretron DSM410 showing Boost/EGT on top and transmission pressure and temps below. This is the port, and I’m usually about 255 psi on that side, hence the replacement pump/control valve.

*temp is indicating incorrectly in this pic, I had to update the calibration file. Now reading correctly.

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Sweet. The maretron converter looks like it does up to 6 sensors and the 0-1000psi sensor is pretty cheap. Maybe I’ll go that route.

Seems like good data to have on the dash
 
Strecker25 said:
Sweet. The maretron converter looks like it does up to 6 sensors and the 0-1000psi sensor is pretty cheap. Maybe I’ll go that route.

Seems like good data to have on the dash
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The 0-500 would work and cover the pressure range nicely. These things run around 360 psi. SBMar.com has a lot of info on adding these sensors, and you’ll want to get some thread sealant specifically for this application. I used loctite 592, but I also have some 545, and I think suitable as well.
 
mrsrobinson said:
@ttmott, interested is a side project this spring? ;-) I pay with beer, pizza and sarcasm.
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yobub said:
Would love to hear estimates of cost to pay a CAT tech to do this, and also cost for a non-CAT diesel mechanic. Is this $5k per engine?
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Who cares? Look, if you buy boats like these it is essential to make sure it's reliable and safe right? We don't buy these machines to have problems, they are acquired solely for enjoyment. Where is the confidence and enjoyment in something sub-par and questionable? There have been twenty posts on cost. Not comming down on you @yobub, but it seems just so idiotic that time after time folks throw this and that cost out on maintenance and repair for these boats. Either have fun and do the work yourself or pay a qualified company to do it. You are buying a used complex piece of machinery, invest to get it right.
 
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ttmott said:
Who cares? Look, if you buy boats like these it is essential to make sure it's reliable and safe right? We don't buy these machines to have problems when they are there solely for enjoyment. Where is the confidence and enjoyment in something sub-par and questionable? There has been twenty posts on cost. Not comming down on you @yobub, but it seems just so idiotic that time after time folks throw this and that cost out on these boats. Either have fun and do the work or pay a qualified company to do it; this isn't high order calculus.
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100% agreed. I liken it to not running a boat to save on fuel costs, as lots of folks do around us. I have never once sat on my couch in January wishing I spent less on fuel. I treat the maintenance the same way. Parts are suspect, they get swapped. If the job is beyond my abilities, I pay a pro. Our season is much too short and trouble-free days on the water can't be beat.

I also drag my young family across a very large body of water where we can lose complete sight of land so reliability and safety is super important
 
ttmott said:
Who cares? Look, if you buy boats like these it is essential to make sure it's reliable and safe right? We don't buy these machines to have problems, they are acquired solely for enjoyment. Where is the confidence and enjoyment in something sub-par and questionable? There have been twenty posts on cost. Not comming down on you @yobub, but it seems just so idiotic that time after time folks throw this and that cost out on maintenance and repair for these boats. Either have fun and do the work yourself or pay a qualified company to do it. You are buying a used complex piece of machinery, invest to get it right.
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Some of us have to live within a budget and plan our expenditures. Maybe others can spend money regardless of the amount. Congrats to those who are in that category - I'm not. I'm learning to do the things I can do, and also know my limitations and hire out when I need to. But I don't want to hire blindly, which is why I ask the question.

On 20 year old boats there is always work to be done but it can't all be done at once. I wasn't questioning the value, just trying to get an idea of cost.
 
yobub said:
Some of us have to live within a budget and plan our expenditures. Maybe others can spend money regardless of the amount. Congrats to those who are in that category - I'm not. I'm learning to do the things I can do, and also know my limitations and hire out when I need to. But I don't want to hire blindly, which is why I ask the question.

On 20 year old boats there is always work to be done but it can't all be done at once. I wasn't questioning the value, just trying to get an idea of cost.
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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

There are BOATERS and there are PEOPLE WHO OWN BOATS.

Seems to me most of us on CSR are actually Boaters, hence our enthusiasm as evidenced by our being here.

The majority of us are not running the latest, greatest new boats, and we're doing a lot of our own wrenching.

Someone who buys a 25 year old boat who brings no mechanical skill or background to the table likely won't be keeping the boat too long.

Age, physical ability, budget, knowledge and background are all part of the mix for us all, and in different degrees.

But WOW - I thought we had a great FORUM over at trojanboat.net, but CSR is above and beyond - one outstanding resource that benefits us all.

Anyway, I believe it's safe to say we're all on some sort of budget, otherwise we'd be running new boats and having them serviced by the dealer.

BEST ,

RWS
 
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Well said by all. I am asking my questions for many reasons. One to make sure I am getting a good boat for a good/fair price. I also want to know "what I am getting into" and what the boat will need mechanically to get to baseline and I feel safe on open water during a long trip (6+ hours). Once it's "home" I will start digging in more, learning more, and feel safer. So I am excited, but a bit anxious about this purchase. I am also trying to learn what I can do myself, what I should turn over to a mechanic, what are the costs if I do as I may want to take that on myself. This boat is a 6 hour roundtrip car drive from my house to. So I am trying to figure out what I need to do now, before I move her, and what can wait. And if I plan to do it myself, what am I getting into.

Plus, I do not know much about diesels, other than growing up with them as my dad operated Caterpillar bulldozers for a living. I ran a few myself, or at least tried to. I helped him work on them, but I was 8, 9, 10 years old then. I remember helping him pull the engine out of one in high school to take it to a diesel mechanic. I was more into girls and cars then though, not helping my dad work on a dozer :)
 
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yobub said:
Some of us have to live within a budget and plan our expenditures. Maybe others can spend money regardless of the amount. Congrats to those who are in that category - I'm not. I'm learning to do the things I can do, and also know my limitations and hire out when I need to. But I don't want to hire blindly, which is why I ask the question.

On 20 year old boats there is always work to be done but it can't all be done at once. I wasn't questioning the value, just trying to get an idea of cost.
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You are absolutely correct to budget for annual maintenance, upkeep, and unplanned work (as best as possible) on the boat; everyone has to do that. Heck, I ran my boat aground and by the time we had it straightened out I was into it for over $10K then the lightning strike which was another $25K out of my pocket all within a year all on top of the normal annual maintenance of around $6K. I was thinking Jeeze can I do this every year??
What I thought we were discussing, I could be wrong however, is purchasing a used out of warrantee boat and planning in that purchase budget to technically baseline the power plants and vessel. This is to make sure the vessel is seaworthy and safe, reduce risk of breakdowns and failures, make it as reliable as humanly possible, and enjoy the toy without too much worry.

So to your point, Let's say you have a major unplanned issue come up, and they do, and you need to evaluate what it's going to take to correct. The best way is to get values in service hours and parts rather than what someone paid for similar work. Marine service cost varies greatly depending upon where and who is doing the work. Now you are armed with an approximation the effort needed and can determine cost based upon in-shop rates and remote work rates. The shop can give you both their estimate in hours, their fully burdened labor rate, travel, and costs in parts and consumables. With this data the owner is more knowledgeable and has the tools to understand the effort required. Wouldn't you agree?
 
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ttmott said:
What I thought we were discussing, I could be wrong however, is purchasing a used out of warrantee boat and planning in that purchase budget to technically baseline the power plants and vessel.
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Thanks @ttmott and I probably wasn't clear in my response. I already have my boat and am a few years into it, so what I was really trying to say was "Wow Tom, that's a great list. I really need to look at having that baseline done to my engines and I want to provide a tech with that list. Since it's probably a 5 figure expenditure, I'm going to need to budget for it, because I can't spend that kind of money without researching and planning it. I don't really trust my local CAT dealer, and I know my local Skipper Buds will run up the tab if they have the chance, I'd like to get some price range on this so I know in advance if I'm getting any kind of a straight story from them on cost."

That's what I said in my head, even if it didn't come out that way in writing. o_O
 
For most of the items on that list for a pair of caterpillar 3126s, caterpillar estimated $18,000 and a local shop estimated $15,000 for me.
 
yobub said:
Thanks @ttmott and I probably wasn't clear in my response. I already have my boat and am a few years into it, so what I was really trying to say was "Wow Tom, that's a great list. I really need to look at having that baseline done to my engines and I want to provide a tech with that list. Since it's probably a 5 figure expenditure, I'm going to need to budget for it, because I can't spend that kind of money without researching and planning it. I don't really trust my local CAT dealer, and I know my local Skipper Buds will run up the tab if they have the chance, I'd like to get some price range on this so I know in advance if I'm getting any kind of a straight story from them on cost."

That's what I said in my head, even if it didn't come out that way in writing. o_O
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All good! And, there is the use factor - I routinely take my boat over a hundred miles from sight of land; I need it in top repair for these trips.
 
mrsrobinson said:
And a bottle on Woodford, 12 pack of Corona Light and pizza for friends.
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Count me in! Next time I'm in the area I'll stop by... Don't know anything about mechanics but I do know how to drink and smash a pizza!
 
Saverio said:
Is it ok to buy high quality Budweiser in the bottle form... than buy whatever motor oil 7-11 has on the shelf??

Asking for a friend
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Absolutely, tell your friend to buy plastic bottles though, not a good idea to have glass beer bottles on the boat ;-)

Wait, what? High quality Budweiser? Isn't that an oxymoron...
 
mrsrobinson said:
Absolutely, tell your friend to buy plastic bottles though, not a good idea to have glass beer bottles on the boat ;-)

Wait, what? High quality Budweiser? Isn't that an oxymoron...
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during the holidays I did see some bottles marked premium. I actually had to take a second look
 
The 3126 features a preheater (not glow plugs).

Couple of questions:

  • Please confirm that the preheater comes on with the solenoid click when the dash switch is turned on to the RUN position.
  • Does that solenoid operate on a timer or a temp sensor?
  • If on a timer, how long does the preheater run?
  • When starting engines cold, is it a "BEST PRACTICE" to leave the ignition ON and in the RUN position to energize the preheater for a few seconds before cranking over?
  • Would I be correct to assume the purpose of the preheater is to aid in starting in cold climates and reduce smoke at startup?
No problems here and not creating any, just seeking knowledge as I'm still learning the 3126.

BEST !

RWS
 
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