Official Caterpillar3116/3126 Thread

[nealtrombley]

Mine were never more thn just warm to the couch by a bare hand so I wouldn't think Hi-Temp paint would be necessary…..this is for Caterpillar engines with 190˚ thermostats.

thank you

 

[mrsrobinson]

I was planning to do the 1000 hour service in phases. One reason is so I can do some of the work myself, learn and save some money.

Phase 1: all of the raw water marine side of things: heat exchangers, trans coolers, after coolers
Phase 2: valves and injectors
Phase 3: all fluids

I talked to the shop that did the engine surveys about this. He said in his opinion while he has everything off on the marine side/raw water 1 it makes sense to do everything else as i would be removing everything again. This makes sense to me, I don't know enough about these engines to say "that's right" though.

Is that right?

 

[ttmott]

New owner's CAT engine baseline -

• Remove all raw water components - service, test, and clean.
• Remove air charge cooler (aftercooler) - service, test, and clean.
• Inspect / clean turbocharger - verify turbine / compressor shaft play. There needs to be 0.010 maximum clearance between turbine blade ends and housing. Any sign of blade contact must immediately be rectified. Rebuild/replace as required.
• Flush engine coolant system.
• Replace thermostats
• Inspect engine coolant pump for leaks - replace as required. I would replace regardless as a part of the baseline process.
• Replace drive belts
• Inspect drive pulleys for corrosion and correct if required
• Inspect/replace raw water pump. Inspect drip hole if indication of leakage replace pump. Replace impeller, key and plates as a minimum.
• Replace all soft goods (hoses) and clamps.
• Inspect / replace drive pin on engine sync drive cables and re-align.
• Inspect hoses and clamps on exhaust system - replace as required.
• Set fuel rack and valve lash.
• Replace injection control unit check valves and vac diaphragm. Adjust control unit as required. there are five little tiny plastic check valves that will gum up over time and affect fuel management. They are cheap and easy to replace.
• Inspect throttle cable and verify full, smooth travel.
• Inspect and clean/replace air filter and crankcase vent filter.
• Inspect and clean crankcase oil separator
• Replace engine oil and filters. Must use single weight oils for 3116 and 3126 engines. This is the baseline to start oil analysis routine.
• If there is corrosion noted in engine cooling system, the engine oil cooler must be removed and inspected / replaced.
• Inspect and test alternator - replace as required.

 

[Strecker25]

Replace injection control unit check valves and vac diaphragm. Adjust control unit as required. there are five little tiny plastic check valves that will gum up over time and affect fuel management. They are cheap and easy to replace.

That is a great list. I've read this step mentioned more than once so I should probably take care of it this year. I'm looking through the service manual now but haven't been able to find the procedure. Any insight where they detail the steps, or do you know of a document available elsewhere?

 

[mrsrobinson]

It is a great list, thank you.

What I'd like to know if anyone knows is what does it make sense to do at the same time while one has parts removed, while all raw water components are removed so I am not doing "double removal" at a later date to perform more service. I don't know if the shop I have an estimate from is being salesy and inserting discomfort to keep themselves busy.

I asked them to do heat exchangers, oil coolers and after coolers only, that I would take care of the rest. The boat is 3 hours away so this will save me some time, and feels more critical to do right away.

They told me it makes mores sense to do all of the work while they have those components removed. Maybe they are right, maybe they are inserting discomfort to keep themselves busy.

 

[Shaps]

Why not ask for a quote assuming coolers are removed and another quote separate?

 

[mrsrobinson]

Why not ask for a quote assuming coolers are removed and another quote separate?

I did, that's when he called me and said he wants to do it all at the same time. He said I would have to remove everything he removed again to do the remaining service.

 

[Shaps]

I did, that's when he called me and said he wants to do it all at the same time.

Did he give you an estimate of what the cost difference is?

I had similar when I bought my boat. Baselined all systems and had a couple of, while "we are in there" type items.
I got 2 prices. wound up doing 1 of the 2 where the boat was (in Fla). The 2nd one i did mid season in NY. the cost difference was basically the same after the haulout. i priced that work up here so knew it to be the case.

 

[ttmott]

New Owner DC electrical system baseline -

• Replace the batteries - just do it.
• Inspect / replace primary positive cabling.
• Inspect / replace primary negative cabling
• Open main disconnect panel and inspect for corrosion and all terminations. Correct as necessary. The SR boats that have the main disconnect located in the aft of the boat cockpit suffer from water intrusion and corrosion.
• Look carefully at all primary and secondary wiring terminations and replace as necessary. If you see corrosion replace...
• Verify performance of battery charger/converter. Note the circuit breakers for the charger 12 volt side are behind the main disconnect panel. They can get corroded so inspect those also.
• Inspect the battery negative terminations on the engines and generator. I'd crimp new ends regardless. These are the most important electrical terminations.
• Disconnect all electrical connectors and inspect / clean and lubricate with di-electric grease.
• Go through the entire bonding system and service / replace anything that has corrosion visible.
• Purchase spare bosch style relays for the fuel solenoid. They are located in the engine electrical J-box.
• Verify engine alternators are supplying correct charge voltage.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

Did he give you an estimate of what the cost difference is?

I had similar when I bought my boat. Baselined all systems and had a couple of, while "we are in there" type items.
I got 2 prices. wound up doing 1 of the 2 where the boat was (in Fla). The 2nd one i did mid season in NY. the cost difference was basically the same after the haulout. i priced that work up here so knew it to be the case.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I am taking the advice of an active and well-known contributor here on CSR to also replace, rather than service the 25 year old transmission coolers on my 3126's which have likely never been touched since new.

RWS

 

[mrsrobinson]

New Owner DC electrical system baseline -

• Replace the batteries - just do it.
• Inspect / replace primary positive cabling.
• Inspect / replace primary negative cabling
• Open main disconnect panel and inspect for corrosion and all terminations. Correct as necessary. The SR boats that have the main disconnect located in the aft of the boat cockpit suffer from water intrusion and corrosion.
• Look carefully at all primary and secondary wiring terminations and replace as necessary. If you see corrosion replace...
• Verify performance of battery charger/converter. Note the circuit breakers for the charger 12 volt side are behind the main disconnect panel. They can get corroded so inspect those also.
• Inspect the battery negative terminations on the engines and generator. I'd crimp new ends regardless. These are the most important electrical terminations.
• Disconnect all electrical connectors and inspect / clean and lubricate with di-electric grease.
• Go through the entire bonding system and service / replace anything that has corrosion visible.
• Purchase spare bosch style relays for the fuel solenoid. They are located in the engine electrical J-box.
• Verify engine alternators are supplying correct charge voltage.

@ttmott, interested is a side project this spring? ;-) I pay with beer, pizza and sarcasm.

 

[The Bill Collector]

Purchase spare bosch style relays for the fuel solenoid. They are located in the engine electrical J-box.

BWD R3112 12v Relay is what I got when I took my old Bosch into O'Reilly's Auto Parts...

 

[yobub]

New owner's CAT engine baseline -

• Remove all raw water components - service, test, and clean.
• Remove air charge cooler (aftercooler) - service, test, and clean.
• Inspect / clean turbocharger - verify turbine / compressor shaft play. There needs to be 0.010 maximum clearance between turbine blade ends and housing. Any sign of blade contact must immediately be rectified. Rebuild/replace as required.
• Flush engine coolant system.
• Replace thermostats
• Inspect engine coolant pump for leaks - replace as required. I would replace regardless as a part of the baseline process.
• Replace drive belts
• Inspect drive pulleys for corrosion and correct if required
• Inspect/replace raw water pump. Inspect drip hole if indication of leakage replace pump. Replace impeller, key and plates as a minimum.
• Replace all soft goods (hoses) and clamps.
• Inspect / replace drive pin on engine sync drive cables and re-align.
• Inspect hoses and clamps on exhaust system - replace as required.
• Set fuel rack and valve lash.
• Replace injection control unit check valves and vac diaphragm. Adjust control unit as required. there are five little tiny plastic check valves that will gum up over time and affect fuel management. They are cheap and easy to replace.
• Inspect throttle cable and verify full, smooth travel.
• Inspect and clean/replace air filter and crankcase vent filter.
• Inspect and clean crankcase oil separator
• Replace engine oil and filters. Must use single weight oils for 3116 and 3126 engines. This is the baseline to start oil analysis routine.
• If there is corrosion noted in engine cooling system, the engine oil cooler must be removed and inspected / replaced.
• Inspect and test alternator - replace as required.

Would love to hear estimates of cost to pay a CAT tech to do this, and also cost for a non-CAT diesel mechanic. Is this $5k per engine?

 

[mrsrobinson]

Would love to hear estimates of cost to pay a CAT tech to do this, and also cost for a non-CAT diesel mechanic. Is this $5k per engine?

Caterpillar quoted me almost 17K to do the 1000k service, both engines.

Local well known respected shop quoted me $10,500K.

 

[dtfeld]

Add one other thing to the list…Transmissions

Change fluid and filter

Add EZ-Oil fittings with short section of tube. Build/obtain pump. Make future fluid changes easy for yourself.

If mechanical shift, check shift linkage/travel

If electric shift, check clean shift solenoid contacts. Clean as necessary.

Put on a 400 or 600 psi gauge and check shift pressure. See table below.

I’m in the process of replacing my other pump/control block due to low pressure on the original pump/control block. Should be 350 psi + at cruise.

 

[mrsrobinson]

Did he give you an estimate of what the cost difference is?

I had similar when I bought my boat. Baselined all systems and had a couple of, while "we are in there" type items.
I got 2 prices. wound up doing 1 of the 2 where the boat was (in Fla). The 2nd one i did mid season in NY. the cost difference was basically the same after the haulout. i priced that work up here so knew it to be the case.

I just asked for 2 estimates. They still refuse to breakout the 1000 hour service and will only give me one estimate for all of the 1000 hour service:

Remove all coolers. Clean, test and reinstall
Perform valve and injector adjustments
Drain coolant. Flush and refill with new coolant
Replace belts and thermostats
Replace all CAT supplied cooling system hoses

$10,500 for both engines.

 

[Strecker25]

Add one other thing to the list…Transmissions

Change fluid and filter

Add EZ-Oil fittings with short section of tube. Build/obtain pump. Make future fluid changes easy for yourself.

If mechanical shift, check shift linkage/travel

If electric shift, check clean shift solenoid contacts. Clean as necessary.

Put on a 400 or 600 psi gauge and check shift pressure. See table below.

View attachment 119725 View attachment 119723


I’m in the process of replacing my other pump/control block due to low pressure on the original pump/control block. Should be 350 psi + at cruise.

I think I asked this before, are your transmission pressure sensors on the n2k network? I'm out of dash space but would love to add them to the network and display on the mfd's

 

[dtfeld]

I think I asked this before, are your transmission pressure sensors on the n2k network? I'm out of dash space but would love to add them to the network and display on the mfd's

Yes. I was having issues with the port transmission on/off since I purchased. The final straw was it took 30-60 seconds to shift the port into REV, and finally quit shifting at all.

I swapped the pump/control valve and the problem followed. I put a new pump/control valve assembly on the Starboard and left the original starboard pump/control valve assembly on the Port, and all has been well, except for low pressure. This a preventative replacement.

Bonus is the new pump/control valve assembly has ports for both pressure and temperature senders, and the electrical connections are much more robust.

Pic is showing pressures at idle…I get about 250 psi on the port side and about 355+ on the starboard at anything above idle.

 

[Strecker25]

Yes. I was having issues with the port transmission on/off since I purchased. The final straw was it took 30-60 seconds to shift the port into REV, and finally quit shifting at all.

I swapped the pump/control valve and the problem followed. I put a new pump/control valve assembly on the Starboard and left the original starboard pump/control valve assembly on the Port, and all has been well, except for low pressure. This a preventative replacement.

Bonus is the new pump/control valve assembly has ports for both pressure and temperature senders, and the electrical connections are much more robust.

Pic is showing pressures at idle…I get about 250 psi on the port side and about 355 on the starboard.
View attachment 119744

ah ok so the original block doesn’t have the ports?

what sensor did you use?

 

[dtfeld]

This is the pump valve assembly, with the ports for temp and pressure noted.

The pressure sender needs an m10x1 to 1/8 NPT adapter, bought off Amazon.