Official 390 E.C. Thread

Getaway said:
This is right from him. He is a very valued and reputable marine mechanic:

"WIX marine filters have a stronger spring to keep the filter working
instead of opening to a by pass mode that higher rpms bring."

I've run automotive style filters in my boat motors for years without issues, however, I changed my ways after talking to him.
Click to expand...

I have no doubt he said it. I just don't prescribe to it. RPMS don't mean anything, the pressure does. The bypass on a Wix filter is 8-11 PSI, and a Purolator (if it even has one) is 12-14, which would mean that there would have to be an even higher pressure differential on the Purolator before it opens. In fact, as I recall, doesn't Merc have the bypass in the remote filter mount anyway? I stand by my statements.
 
I'm just trying to remove the black plastic T-handles from my shifters. I was contemplating changing them to the nice gold shifter knobs that are on newer sea Rays. I removed the machine screw and nut, but the plastic handle will not let go. What am I doing wrong here besides tampering with my classic 390?
 
electricaldoctor said:
I'm just trying to remove the black plastic T-handles from my shifters. I was contemplating changing them to the nice gold shifter knobs that are on newer sea Rays. I removed the machine screw and nut, but the plastic handle will not let go. What am I doing wrong here besides tampering with my classic 390?
Click to expand...

Ken, I'd like to do the same modification. Are you referring to the "golden balls"? Do they fit on our shifter??? ...and, where did you buy them?

Thank you :smt001
 
I know a a few of you have been through the chore of replacing your water tank. I am grateful for the pictures and advice you have provided sharing your problems and solutions. You have made the job of removing the tank from my 390 much easier but I have yet another question. Am I right in thinking there is some type of "tube" that goes from the half inch outlet where the pump connects down to the bottom of the tank so that the pump can pull the water up? If so, did you cut it out of your old tank and reuse it in your new one or did you just fabricate a new "tube".
 
Thanks for the response Ken. I'm having my new tank made up in stainless so I wonder about the dissimilar metal thing but I'm sure my fabricator friend will know.
 
What temperature should the risers be on my fresh water gassers? I am going to take a few infared readings this w/e, but I know that the port side is at least 10* hotter than the stb side.
 
I'm curious too. My 454 gets very hot, like 140-150. I'm not used to that kind of heat on a marine engine. The risers on the 4.3ltr in my old boat we cool to the point where you could hold them with you hands and they felt just warm.
 
I never taken an infared reading but according to the water temp gauges on my 454's the port side runs 175 and the starbord runs 160. SeaRay put me in touch with a guy named Rocky at Mercrusier and he said 170 to 180 is fine for the big blocks. That was 10 years ago and I have had no issues.
 
david7064 said:
I never taken an infared reading but according to the water temp gauges on my 454's the port side runs 175 and the starbord runs 160. SeaRay put me in touch with a guy named Rocky at Mercrusier and he said 170 to 180 is fine for the big blocks. That was 10 years ago and I have had no issues.
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Thanks for the info. That is very good to know. I was concerned with my motor running that hot.

I'm still wondering if the exhaust manifolds should be 140-150....
 
Pietro said:
Ken, I'd like to do the same modification. Are you referring to the "golden balls"? Do they fit on our shifter??? ...and, where did you buy them?

Thank you :smt001
Click to expand...

I don't know if they fit our shifter handles Pietro because I cannot seem to remove the plastic tee handles. I removed the screws, but that is as far as I can get. I thought that they might unscrew, but they don't want to budge. I was hoping that somebody would be able to offer some advice about this. I saw the gold knobs in a local chandelery & I think that I saw them on Ebay last year.
 
I want to change out all of my plastic & rubber windshield trims & screw caps this winter. I printed sheets from Taylor-made last year that showed all of their profiles for my boat, but I can't seem to find it. I think that I have it saved to "my favourites" on my other laptop. I think that I read somewhere that there is another company that supplies the same trims for less money than Taylor-made, so I will have to do some searches on that as well. I am going to remove the side windows, re-bed them and install all new gaskets and screw cap trims as well.
 
Hello all! I'm just wondering if anyone can tell me where I might find an original stock seat for a 1988 390 E.C. (drivers seat). Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I purchased the boat this summer and the previous owner had replaced the original stock seat with a much shorter, odd looking one. The colors don't need to match as I am recovering all of the seats this winter. Not sure where to start looking. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 
Similar to MinnesotaJims question above - for those who have had to replace/rebuild their cockpit helm and co-pilot seats due to rot, is there a company out there that makes replacements? Does anyone have recommendations on companies that may have templates? Or should I just look for a fiberglass marine shop to do the work?

Currently looking at a boat for sale that does not have the stock seats (no storage underneath) and would like to return it to the stock look if I decide to put in an offer. Thanks.
 
I just re bedded the side windows on my 86 390. I thought it would be a massive job, was nothing to it. On the port side the previous owner did use 3m 4200 on the very forward section of the window, so getting that off took the most time. I also took the time to polish the aluminum frames while I had them off the boat. Very easy job and ohh what a wonderful life it is when your boat is not raining inside

fyi
P.S if you want the pics she sent let me know and I will post those also.

Here's what i found on that windshield. I have also attached pictures of each

On the main windshield we used
Screw Cover 8338920 $3.16 per foot comes in 12' sections
Glazing vinyl 8337920 $2.61 per foot
Hinge cover 8229900 $2.28 per foot
Wire track 8233230 $2.18 per foot

On the side windows
Glazing Vinyl 8337920 $2.61 per foot​
Screw Cover 8338950 $2.61 per foot comes in 11' sections

Portlights are not ours
Theresa Havlick
Taylor Made Systems
Taylor Made Group, LLC
Customer Service
93 South Blvd
Gloversville, NY 12078
518-773-9449​

​
 
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With all due respect, your mechanic is wrong about this. There are many “marine” filters that are junk same as auto filters. Some WIX filters have bypass as high as 23psi. When I choose a filter I do it based on internal construction. You want a filter that is built well, i.e. that the pleating is even and consistent in spacing, and that the bypass valve is at the top of the filter and not the bottom. With bypass valves at the bottom of the filter, all the oil that is bypassed passes over the outside of the filter media on its way through the filter, potentially picking up solids off the filter media. I don’t care who makes the filter or for what it is built as long as it is well built.
 
I just bought my 1988 390 express cruiser 2 months ago and figured that I'd save some money and change the oil myself. I purchased a jabsco motorized oil pump and removed the oil through the dipstick tube (was informed this was easiest and cleanest way to change the oil). Unfortunately I was only able to remove about 3 qts per motor, according to my manual the 7.4 L motors should have had at least 6 qts to remove. Has anyone else run into this problem? I warmed the motor for 5 minutes prior to oil removal and am positive I felt the plastic suction hose hit the bottom of the oil pan. What was I doing wrong? Thanks for your advice guys!
 
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