Official 390 E.C. Thread

Not the best at trying to post pics but here goes. Can't make it load, says it exceeds allowed KB. If I get a email address I can send that way. :huh:
 
hottoddie said:
Not the best at trying to post pics but here goes. Can't make it load, says it exceeds allowed KB. If I get a email address I can send that way. :huh:
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Set up an account at

www.photobucket.com

upload and copy and paste IMG link into your message
best part....it's FREE...and unlimited
 
Avenger said:
br, Thanks for the input. Thats interesting what the boat actually weighs in running trim compared to the advertised 16k dry weight. I had a guy tell me at the dock that his 89' 390 would run 23-24mph at 3200 rpm. I thought that was a bit high given my 370 dancer wouldn't cruise at that speed. BTW, congrats on your new to you boat and the pics of your launch were quite a sight for sure.
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I'm right at 21-22mph on gps at 3200 rpms.
 
Hey Guys, Does anyone know the total height from the keel to the top of the arch on the 390? Also has anyone removed their arch and if so what kind of job is it? Just trying to figure shipping and storage. Thanks.
 
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Just recieved the info I was looking right from Sea Ray. The height on the 390 is 144" or 12' from the keel to the highest point. From the waterline to the highest point is 117".
 
still learning so much about this boat!

Unfortunately I just learned that the lights in the head dont always work right when it comes to the holding tank and that small silver vent on the port side of the boat is not supposed to have "liquid" coming out of it when someone uses the vacuflush!

So, I am off to pump out and go buy a $100 filter that's been contaminated

The question is, does anyone know of a part number or brand for the sending unit in the holding tank? Need to get this fixed as soon as I can. The wife does not like me telling her she cannot use the head!!

Thanks!
 
denjb@yahoo.com said:
still learning so much about this boat!



The question is, does anyone know of a part number or brand for the sending unit in the holding tank? Need to get this fixed as soon as I can. The wife does not like me telling her she cannot use the head!!

Thanks!
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When mine wasn't working I pulled the sending unit from the top of the tank and flushed all the crud and deposits off with a garden hose. It's not such a bad job if you flush the tank a few times before you remove the sender. I had the same symptoms as you when I first got the boat, since the fix the gauge lights have been working fine for 3 seasons.
 
Looking for a source for the wiper motor assembly on my boat. I posted in another thread last week without a response, so I thought I would try here.

Also need advice on removing the wiper arm from the threaded post it is attached to.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 
Once again I come begging for information. Our old girl needs some attention. The prop shaft seals are about shot. Getting ready to do them soon. I have a few questions. Sure hope you guys can help.

First I need to know what size packing to use. I believe its 1/4". I intend to use the Gore-Tex packing. We use this on pumps at work that run 5000+ rpms and they run 24/7 with no heat issues.

Second. Can this be done in the water? Without sinking my boat?

Lastly, any special quirks that I need to know about. This seems like a pretty straight forward deal. Cut new seals. Unscrew big nut, remove ols seals. I have the snap on pic set for removing the old seals. Clean all threads and shafts. Install new ones. Coat threads with anit-sieze. Tighten till water stops. Drive and adjust if necessary.

I have read all the posts that I could find on this cant seem to find one that is specific to the old 390's. Any help is appreciated.
 
This can be done in the water without sinking your boat. You will get some water, but that is not a big issue. We have "dripless" shaft seals, but I have done this several times on previous boats without any problems. You seem to have all of the steps laid out correctly. Just have your packing all ready to go and all should be well. I used to use a piece of hardwood cut down to size to tamp in the packing before installing the nut. I used to use a "Teflon" product, but your product sounds like it will do the job and you are already familiar with it, so go for it. "Anti-seize" on threads?? I hope that you don't mean "lock-tight".

~Ken
 
electricaldoctor said:
This can be done in the water without sinking your boat. You will get some water, but that is not a big issue. We have "dripless" shaft seals, but I have done this several times on previous boats without any problems. You seem to have all of the steps laid out correctly. Just have your packing all ready to go and all should be well. I used to use a piece of hardwood cut down to size to tamp in the packing before installing the nut. I used to use a "Teflon" product, but your product sounds like it will do the job and you are already familiar with it, so go for it. "Anti-seize" on threads?? I hope that you don't mean "lock-tight".

~Ken
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Gore tex and teflon are about same thing. I believe they call it GFO packing. It contains gore tex and teflon. The hopes with the anti-sieze is that future adjustments, if needed, will be easy to do. Thanks ken
 
Avenger said:
Hey Guys, Does anyone know the total height from the keel to the top of the arch on the 390? Also has anyone removed their arch and if so what kind of job is it? Just trying to figure shipping and storage. Thanks.
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Hi Josh,

I moved my sea ray a few months ago. I think it measured out to be 11ft 8 inches. I did have the props removed for the journey. It was put on a low boy trailer and hauled 300 miles. There was no need to remove the Arch for the trip. I paid 2400.00 for the move. I lost my wallet this weekend with the guy's number in it, but I can still track him down if you're interested in speaking with him. He works out of Richmond VA and I know he spans up and down the East Coast and great lakes area. Fully insured and uses a big rig, not an F350 or anything like that. Boat weighed in at 22,000 pounds according to the crane.
 
I think this question has to do with the shaft packing below. When it was surveyed I was told that it's good to have it leak a drop or two while running but when you stop it shouldn't leak at all. I've noticed my bilge pump running about every 20 minutes. It's a result of my port side shaft dripping water in. I didn't see any way to tighten it down. There were a few plates that the shaft went through but nothing else to wrench on. Any pointers here?

Secondly I had to replace my 4 marine batteries a few weekends ago. During this process and checking the charge it appears that only 3 of my 4 batteries are getting a charge from either my alternator or inverter. does anybody have documentation on what the factory set up is? When I bought it, it appears that 2 are running in parallel and then two are on their own. Confusing to explain. I can snap a pic and post it if it would help. Figure we should all have the same set up here, but perhaps I'm wrong. My mechanic took a look at the manual and suggested that perhaps somebody in the boats history did some custom work to it. But if one battery is not getting a charge, and likely dying, so if it's dying then perhaps there is a 12v system not getting power. However I have not noticed anything not working, so perhaps that battery should be run in parallel too?

Lastly my winter goal is to improve the sound system in the cockpit, and aft deck area. Have not seen any links on the classic forum in how to do that. Normally I'm pretty good at this stuff, but didn't know if there were some clever write up's already done with suggested equipment specific to our boats. I don't want anything too fancy, just an amp and a few speakers to replace what's back there. tough to hear the music underway.

Anyone know our max occupancy rating on the boat? The online calculator puts it at 34 with the formula. I had 17 on it Saturday and want to make sure I'm not going to get a pricey ticket.
 
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Isn't that calculator wild?? I just forget what it is though. I think that is was length x width / 15. 39' x 14' / 15 = 36 people. :smt043Give me a break ... my boat is spacious, but it is not a freak'n tour boat. :smt021
 
This is the diagram that was included with the documentation in our boat:
390ECbatterydiag.jpg
 
RTD0102 said:
This is the diagram that was included with the documentation in our boat:
View attachment 26457
Click to expand...

This is exactly how my boat is wired. Each alternator charging two batteries on that side. All of the batteries are wired together from positive to negative front to back and side to side. On mine the positive from B1 goes to the negative on B2 tying all four of them together.

I know this cause my alternators are on the bench right now. Neither was charging.
 
br1212 said:
I think this question has to do with the shaft packing below. When it was surveyed I was told that it's good to have it leak a drop or two while running but when you stop it shouldn't leak at all. I've noticed my bilge pump running about every 20 minutes. It's a result of my port side shaft dripping water in. I didn't see any way to tighten it down. There were a few plates that the shaft went through but nothing else to wrench on. Any pointers here?

.
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Looking at the shaft from above their are two cotter pins just forward of where the shaft goes through the hull. Pull the pins and turn the "nut" for lack of a better word to the right. This is what you refered to as a few plates. The fore most one spins into the stuffing box. This tightens the packing. There are pre drilled holes for the pins to go through. You must turn the nut/plate far enough to re-align the pre-drilled holes for the pins. These plates are not usually easy to turn. You can try a pipe wrench. What most have to do is use a big screwdriver/prybar and a hammer and beat it around.

I have been told that 1-2 drips per minute while under way is sufficient. If you bilge pump is coming on every 20 minutes that is way too much.
 
can anyone tell me what size packing goes in the prop shaft seal stuffing box? Going to go buy GFO and need to get this done soon.
 
Just thought that I would post this dwg sent to me from Pietro last August. His mod shuts down the blower once the desired temperature has been attained. His dwg is for the old 3-knobber control.

image.jpg
 
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