Official 390 E.C. Thread

Pietro said:
That's it!

I found a pic of the pump relay board. It's a simple device. Whenever one of the compressors (up to four) starts, power goes to the circulation pump. Mine was toasted!

Troubleshooting it should be easy: start your a/c and check if there's current where the pump should be connected.
FYI it was 247 $

View attachment 25381
Click to expand...
Thank you! I'll check it this week and see what it's doing. It sure isn't a cheap part - but then what on these boats is.
Thanks Pietro!
Rich
 
just a general question...
I have been pursuing a 1990 390ec (the Admiral is as hot on it as I am too)
it has bad engines (gas)
I really don't know all of the questions to ask but
I am wondering what worst case scenario might be for a total refit of anything that could be needed beyond the engines
I know a few of you have done total restorations and wonder roughly how much you have invested
I know it's none of my business but before I get in over my head in a multi year project I'd like to have some idea what to expect
if anyone doesn't want to post the $$$ in open forum you can PM me and your info will be kept in complete confidence
thanks
Jim
 
See my web site
http://www.stroboflash.com/SearayProject/
and my Club Sea Ray thread
http://clubsearay.com/showthread.php/37697-A-Florida-based-1987-390-Express-Restoration

Have a VERY experienced marine surveyor look at the boat and HEED his advice.
I am 4 years and $50K in to the project. If I was to hire it it would be more like $200k. If it is not diesel and not in pristine condition (surveyor opinion not yours) don't buy it! Engines are easy to replace. The rest is very hard. Fuel tanks will need to be replaced too. They are thin aluminum and get water under them and corrode. Don't be stupid - especially with gas.
The 390EC LEAK from the top down. There can be serious hidden damage. If you get a surveyor have him look at my site to become familiar with the details.
 
THIS IS GOOD INFO
there is a bit of staining on the salon walls
I have not seen the boat in person but many photos
I have no need for a diesel boat living inland...and probably no need for a 390...but I love those old tugs
before anything happened I would have a structural survey done...the engines are toast and the gen is probably needy too
your and Pietro's restos have made me wonder what I would be getting into.
 
moparlvr4406 said:
THIS IS GOOD INFO
there is a bit of staining on the salon walls
I have not seen the boat in person but many photos
I have no need for a diesel boat living inland...and probably no need for a 390...but I love those old tugs
before anything happened I would have a structural survey done...the engines are toast and the gen is probably needy too
your and Pietro's restos have made me wonder what I would be getting into.
Click to expand...

Look at the "before" photos here and tell me that this boat does not look bad at all.
http://www.stroboflash.com/SearayProject/gallery/2007-08-11 Before Teardown/index.html
 
+1 for what Al said. I would add that you should look for a later model, possibly '90 or '91. They made a lot of modifications during the last years. My 390 was not as Al's one, not at all.
 
this one is a 90 but seeing his and reading your thread spooks me a little
 
Ok guys - want to start tackling some small issues. Had a few questions. I feel lucky that these bilges are so roomy, but nonetheless I'd like to limit my exposure down there. I wanted to see if could verify that I'm looking at the impeller for the westerbeke genset. I believe it's an 8.5kw. I can't find any numbers on it, but the manual in the boat says 8.5kw - 15.5kw.


(is this where the impeller is housed? and does anybody know where to purchase it?)

IMG_0017.jpg


Also - under my couch near my AC i saw this 5inch cored hole in the floor that is filled with a hardened foamy material. Any idea why this would be there?

IMG_0012.jpg


IMG_0013.jpg


I'm not a mechanical person what-so-ever, but considering my marina mechanic billed me 300 dollars to put my props on, screw on zincs and inspect my bilge for leaks I think I'm going to learn quickly. Any help is appreciated.

Thank you,
Bill R
 
Okay - so obviously when you purchase a classic everything can't be right. My fears came to fruition today. Since it's been under a covered slip for it's entire life there is no reason for the PO to ever had to deal with rain and leaks. Had the first steady rain today and I noticed some dis-coloration above my couch near the AC vent. Since there is a dashboard and window up there and it's covered with canvas/glass there should be no moisture getting in. Looks like its leaking through the window seal and getting in that way. Anyone deal with this before? Or have suggestions? I'm guessing i need to replace the seal on the windshield or caulk it?

IMG_0077.jpg


IMG_0078.jpg


IMG_0079.jpg


IMG_0081.jpg


IMG_0080.jpg
 
Quick temp repair. Remove the wood that covers the door sliders. Its probably leaking at the edges. Particularly the edge at dash.
 
I looks like it's the windshield. All 390's have this problem. I did remove the all assembly, recaulked and fitted new gaskets!

Try Jeepers repair anyway.
 
electricaldoctor said:
That sounds like a huge job to remove the entire windshield Pietro. Did you do it yourself? How long did it take? Any particular problems encountered while doing this?
Click to expand...

Ken, the boat yard did it when restoring my boat, but it didn't look too difficult to me.
 
Thanx Pietro,

I know that the wiper wires run up in the corner post and that I have had water leaking down through there and tracking along a wiring harness above the Stb side window in the galley. I would like to address that very shortly.
 
Thanks for the quick replies. Looks like their is caulk on the inside right now. I may scrape that off and put a clear silicone on it and see if that can be a quick fix for now. IF that does not work then I guess it's replacing the gasket on the windshield.
 
If you take the attitude that you will slam some silicone in just to get by you will just make it worse. My dad was the king of just getting by and he about ruined his boat!! DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!!!!!!!!

DON'T USE SILICONE! The water is coming from the outside. If you caulk the inside you will trap the water, it will run down the screw holes and ROT out the deck core. Pull the screw cover strips. Remove the screws that attach the WS to the deck. Use 3M 4000UV or 4200 caulk -NOT SILICONE!!!!!!!!! You have to get the caulk in to the holes in the deck. Then liberally put caulk on the screws and drive them in until just tight - no more. Make sure the head is sealed to the aluminum. Scrape the old caulk out of the groove where the WS meets the deck. Wire brush and clean with mineral spirits. You need an adhesive polyurethane caulk. Caulk with 3m 4000UV only!! Do not caulk the inside. Any water that gets in will appear in the trough around the inside of the WS frame. Make sure the drain holes on the sides are clear so water can escape.

DON'T USE SILICONE!
DON'T USE SILICONE!
DON'T USE SILICONE!
DON'T USE SILICONE!

Can you hear me now? See my web site and my thread on this site for everything you will ever need to know about a 390EC.

Al
 
electricaldoctor said:
Thanx Pietro,

I know that the wiper wires run up in the corner post and that I have had water leaking down through there and tracking along a wiring harness above the Stb side window in the galley. I would like to address that very shortly.
Click to expand...

You have to address the wiper motor wire leak from the underside. It is not possible to seal the leak correctly from on top. You have to stick the nozzle in the hole and pump 5200 or 4200 in to the hole under pressure. The horn and loud hailer mounts are probably also leaking. You can address those at the same time.

The stainless rails on top of the cabin are also leaking in to the deck core. You cant see it inside because SeaRAy caulked the backside with silicone and it forces the water in to the core!!! Only way to get to the bolts id to cut the headliner. I would suggest 4000UV around the SS rail mounts on the outside. Use masking tape to make a neat job!

Al
 
Dr MicroChip said:
If you take the attitude that you will slam some silicone in just to get by you will just make it worse. My dad was the king of just getting by and he about ruined his boat!! DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!!!!!!!!

DON'T USE SILICONE! The water is coming from the outside. If you caulk the inside you will trap the water, it will run down the screw holes and ROT out the deck core. Pull the screw cover strips. Remove the screws that attach the WS to the deck. Use 3M 4000UV or 4200 caulk -NOT SILICONE!!!!!!!!! You have to get the caulk in to the holes in the deck. Then liberally put caulk on the screws and drive them in until just tight - no more. Make sure the head is sealed to the aluminum. Scrape the old caulk out of the groove where the WS meets the deck. Wire brush and clean with mineral spirits. You need an adhesive polyurethane caulk. Caulk with 3m 4000UV only!! Do not caulk the inside. Any water that gets in will appear in the trough around the inside of the WS frame. Make sure the drain holes on the sides are clear so water can escape.

DON'T USE SILICONE!
DON'T USE SILICONE!
DON'T USE SILICONE!
DON'T USE SILICONE!

Can you hear me now? See my web site and my thread on this site for everything you will ever need to know about a 390EC.

Al
Click to expand...

Hi Al,

Thank you for the candid response. I will not use silicone caulk! I just hope you're around to answer questions when I start taking things apart! haha.

Hi Al - inspecting it a bit more now that I have daylight - it appears the rubber molding shrunk over time and there are gaps in the seal. Where do I buy the gaskets so I can replace it? Do you need to take the windshield apart for that, or can't you just peel the old stuff out and re-apply the new?
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Forum statistics

Threads
113,198
Messages
1,428,397
Members
61,106
Latest member
MShaun19
Back
Top