OFFICIAL 390/40 Motor Yacht Thread

[Mike Veal]

I'm curious if other 390/40MY have this (circled in the attached photo) in the engine room bilge sump. Is it a mid-ship drain?

 

[alnav]

I'm curious if other 390/40MY have this (circled in the attached photo) in the engine room bilge sump. Is it a mid-ship drain?

Not me. It seems to be a Perko drain plug. I assume a PO added it, perhaps for winterization?

 

[bubbles65]

Question about Keynon Electric 2 burner cooktop in galley-- After installing total of 600 watts of flexible solar panels on the hardtop, and new 4x 6v 460ah Rolls batteries (series and parallel) in house bank, was hoping to be able to have all appliances work from stored energy. Everything works great other than the Keynon cooktop. To have the cooktop turn on, even at its lowest setting, the genny or shore power must be on. All other appliances ie: hot water heater, upper and lower refrigerators on 120V AC, microwave, galley systems etc. will operate from inverter and battery bank only. As far as I can see from the Sea Ray manual schematics, there is not a relay. Vessel has a Magnum Sine Inverter MS series, with ME remote control. Any advice? I will place this same question on the electrical forum. tks.

If anyone interested: Installed a new "seawater" anchor washdown in the anchor locker. Kept the original freshwater washdown in place, but preferred not to use the freshwater tank for anchor and boat wash. Removed the Sealand discharge macerator pump. Using the existing ball valve (with optional switch and relay) and through hull, added a 1 1/2" adapter to the waste hose to connect to a Lippert 12V RV Flow-Max freshwater diaphragm pump (Amazon $75 USD). Ran a 50 ft 1/2" garden hose through bulkhead behind forward shower, back of forward cabin closet to anchor locker. Removed the relay from the macerator pump, kept it plugged in. Use the Waste Control Discharge switch on salon panel to turn pump on. We now have 50 psi of lake water, at a stronger flow than the original freshwater hose, to wash down anchor, and clean the bow of the vessel, without using any of our drinking/showering/flushing water.

 

[ManteoMike]

Question about Keynon Electric 2 burner cooktop in galley-- After installing total of 600 watts of flexible solar panels on the hardtop, and new 4x 6v 460ah Rolls batteries (series and parallel) in house bank, was hoping to be able to have all appliances work from stored energy. Everything works great other than the Keynon cooktop. To have the cooktop turn on, even at its lowest setting, the genny or shore power must be on. All other appliances ie: hot water heater, upper and lower refrigerators on 120V AC, microwave, galley systems etc. will operate from inverter and battery bank only. As far as I can see from the Sea Ray manual schematics, there is not a relay. Vessel has a Magnum Sine Inverter MS series, with ME remote control. Any advice? I will place this same question on the electrical forum. tks.

If anyone interested: Installed a new "seawater" anchor washdown in the anchor locker. Kept the original freshwater washdown in place, but preferred not to use the freshwater tank for anchor and boat wash. Removed the Sealand discharge macerator pump. Using the existing ball valve (with optional switch and relay) and through hull, added a 1 1/2" adapter to the waste hose to connect to a Lippert 12V RV Flow-Max freshwater diaphragm pump (Amazon $75 USD). Ran a 50 ft 1/2" garden hose through bulkhead behind forward shower, back of forward cabin closet to anchor locker. Removed the relay from the macerator pump, kept it plugged in. Use the Waste Control Discharge switch on salon panel to turn pump on. We now have 50 psi of lake water, at a stronger flow than the original freshwater hose, to wash down anchor, and clean the bow of the vessel, without using any of our drinking/showering/flushing water.

Think our stove cook top is 220 volts. Does your inverter provide 220 volts?

 

[bubbles65]

The inverter is the Magnum MS2812, 2800watt model. Not sure if it can provide 220 volts. ( i would guess not). Will check specs further on the inverter and the electric resistance cooktop. thanks. dave

 

[Loyd]

The inverter is the Magnum MS2812, 2800watt model. Not sure if it can provide 220 volts. ( i would guess not). Will check specs further on the inverter and the electric resistance cooktop. thanks. dave

Hello, does the genny have to be running to operate the air conditioners while in cruise? Thanks

 

[DanH951]

Not sure if you got an answer.

The inverter is the Magnum MS2812, 2800watt model. Not sure if it can provide 220 volts. ( i would guess not). Will check specs further on the inverter and the electric resistance cooktop. thanks. dave

Not sure if you found the answer. The Kenyon cooktop is 220V and the inverter will not provide 220V. I like your washdown solution! That is something I'll have to look at.

 

[DanH951]

Hello, does the genny have to be running to operate the air conditioners while in cruise? Thanks

Yes. You need 220 AC to power those AC units. We usually just leave them off while we're running but I know a lot of boaters that don't leave the dock without the generator running. If you have the diesel engines then there is less to worry about.

 

[bubbles65]

I'm curious if other 390/40MY have this (circled in the attached photo) in the engine room bilge sump. Is it a mid-ship drain?

We do not have a drain plug in bilge as per your photo.

 

[bubbles65]

Not sure if you got an answer.

Not sure if you found the answer. The Kenyon cooktop is 220V and the inverter will not provide 220V. I like your washdown solution! That is something I'll have to look at.

thanks, also some informative input from the electronics threads on Club Searay forum.

 

[Dive Girl]

I received a response from Vetus on this:
The prop has been changed to a 6 blade prop. Part number is SET0088
Anode is SET0150
Shear pin BP228S
Brushes SET0056

Our manual doesn't list parts nor does it have diagrams. We need to replace the shear pin. Thank you for the part number. Does your manual have any further diagrams?

 

[Mike Veal]

Our manual doesn't list parts nor does it have diagrams. We need to replace the shear pin. Thank you for the part number. Does your manual have any further diagrams?

No, unfortunately not.

 

[Loyd]

Yes. You need 220 AC to power those AC units. We usually just leave them off while we're running but I know a lot of boaters that don't leave the dock without the generator running. If you have the diesel engines then there is less to worry about.

Thanks. Another quick question. Do the 40my with the QSB engines have underwater exhuast.

 

[alnav]

Thanks. Another quick question. Do the 40my with the QSB engines have underwater exhuast.

Yes

 

[Mike Veal]

Recaulking salon and v-berth bow windows 2003 390MY
I finally got to this project. I thought I'd share what I did. I'm sure some of you will need to have this done at some time. I think it turned out good.
I used the Sika products: 295UV sealant, Activator 205 and Primer 205 G+P. Here's my steps:
1. Dig out old sealant. I used a utility knife cutting along the window edge and the fiberglass edge. Nothing inside to damage. It mostly came out in rope like pieces. I used a razor to trim of remnants.
2. Clean out all dirt and small pieces of old Caulk. I did use some debonder on a few areas, but be careful as you don't want to get debonder into the window seal. I also used a vacuum to remove debris. Then I used a wet rag to really clean. There will be some old Caulk remaining, but I didn't think it would be a problem.
3. Mask the perimeter with painters tape. Remember you'll be filling a large gap. I put the edge just at the top of the radius of the fiberglass. This will become the finished edge of the caulk. Also, I taped down a plastic sheet on the bow so I didn't get black sealant all over. This can be a messy job.
4. Apply the Sika Activator 205 with a paper towel. Follow instructions as it needs to flash off for 10 minutes.
5. Apply Sika Primer 206 G+P with provided narrow paint brush. This product is black. This needs to flash off for 30 minutes.
6. Start laying in the Sika 295UV sealant. I used 5 tubes for the 2 windows and had 1/3 left in the last tube (whew that was close!). Start at the top so you don't kneel in the seam you just did (yes, I did this!). I did 1 ft increments. Spread the sealant with a flat tool. Your going for a flat finished look. I had some caulking tools that worked good. Keep repeating this until you've completed the perimeter. Note that the sealant will begin to get a skin on it quickly if it's a hot day (I experienced this). You have to work fast or you'll end up with a rough finish.
7. Let the sealant cure and then remove the protective tape. I used a razor blade to clean off the window. I also had a few messy areas on the gel coat that I cleaned with the debonder and a paper towel and then followed up with a wet paper towel.

I hope this helps.

 

[Christopher Carter]

I'm curious if other 390/40MY have this (circled in the attached photo) in the engine room bilge sump. Is it a mid-ship drain?

No

 

[DanH951]

Recaulking salon and v-berth bow windows 2003 390MY
I finally got to this project. I thought I'd share what I did. I'm sure some of you will need to have this done at some time. I think it turned out good.
I used the Sika products: 295UV sealant, Activator 205 and Primer 205 G+P. Here's my steps:
1. Dig out old sealant. I used a utility knife cutting along the window edge and the fiberglass edge. Nothing inside to damage. It mostly came out in rope like pieces. I used a razor to trim of remnants.
2. Clean out all dirt and small pieces of old Caulk. I did use some debonder on a few areas, but be careful as you don't want to get debonder into the window seal. I also used a vacuum to remove debris. Then I used a wet rag to really clean. There will be some old Caulk remaining, but I didn't think it would be a problem.
3. Mask the perimeter with painters tape. Remember you'll be filling a large gap. I put the edge just at the top of the radius of the fiberglass. This will become the finished edge of the caulk. Also, I taped down a plastic sheet on the bow so I didn't get black sealant all over. This can be a messy job.
4. Apply the Sika Activator 205 with a paper towel. Follow instructions as it needs to flash off for 10 minutes.
5. Apply Sika Primer 206 G+P with provided narrow paint brush. This product is black. This needs to flash off for 30 minutes.
6. Start laying in the Sika 295UV sealant. I used 5 tubes for the 2 windows and had 1/3 left in the last tube (whew that was close!). Start at the top so you don't kneel in the seam you just did (yes, I did this!). I did 1 ft increments. Spread the sealant with a flat tool. Your going for a flat finished look. I had some caulking tools that worked good. Keep repeating this until you've completed the perimeter. Note that the sealant will begin to get a skin on it quickly if it's a hot day (I experienced this). You have to work fast or you'll end up with a rough finish.
7. Let the sealant cure and then remove the protective tape. I used a razor blade to clean off the window. I also had a few messy areas on the gel coat that I cleaned with the debonder and a paper towel and then followed up with a wet paper towel.

I hope this helps.

Thanks for the details, helpful hints and the pictures Mike!

 

[AndyWal]

Does anybody who owns a 40 MY with the Cummins QSB 5.9 feel the boat is underpowered when it is fully loaded? Trying to decide between a higher HP 390 MY with the 480 CE (and it's valve problems) or a 40 MY.

 

[alnav]

Does anybody who owns a 40 MY with the Cummins QSB 5.9 feel the boat is underpowered when it is fully loaded? Trying to decide between a higher HP 390 MY with the 480 CE (and it's valve problems) or a 40 MY.

None of the 390/40MY family are going to set speed records in comparison with say, a similar-sized Sundancer. I would be happy to have more power but am used to what I have.
The way I understand the best way to avoid problems with the 480CE is to under-prop them to the extent that they perform more or less like the 450 Diamond the engine was derived from, effectively restraining the cruising speed. So, in terms of actual use the 480CE actually never should be used at the rated horsepower.
The above coupled with having to live with an older model hull and a non-fully-electronic engine would cause me to prefer a newer year when looking. The entire line of boats seem to be old enough such that there isn't a huge price difference across years.
However, a well-kept diesel boat at a good price and in the general model you desire would always seem to be the best choice.

 

[AndyWal]

I'm curious if other 390/40MY have this (circled in the attached photo) in the engine room bilge sump. Is it a mid-ship drain?

None of the 390/40MY family are going to set speed records in comparison with say, a similar-sized Sundancer. I would be happy to have more power but am used to what I have.
The way I understand the best way to avoid problems with the 480CE is to under-prop them to the extent that they perform more or less like the 450 Diamond the engine was derived from, effectively restraining the cruising speed. So, in terms of actual use the 480CE actually never should be used at the rated horsepower.
The above coupled with having to live with an older model hull and a non-fully-electronic engine would cause me to prefer a newer year when looking. The entire line of boats seem to be old enough such that there isn't a huge price difference across years.
However, a well-kept diesel boat at a good price and in the general model you desire would always seem to be the best choice.

None of the 390/40MY family are going to set speed records in comparison with say, a similar-sized Sundancer. I would be happy to have more power but am used to what I have.
The way I understand the best way to avoid problems with the 480CE is to under-prop them to the extent that they perform more or less like the 450 Diamond the engine was derived from, effectively restraining the cruising speed. So, in terms of actual use the 480CE actually never should be used at the rated horsepower.
The above coupled with having to live with an older model hull and a non-fully-electronic engine would cause me to prefer a newer year when looking. The entire line of boats seem to be old enough such that there isn't a huge price difference across years.
However, a well-kept diesel boat at a good price and in the general model you desire would always seem to be the best choice.

I'm buying this boat for usable space and lazy cruising, frequently running at displacement speeds so I'm not concerned with having a particularly fast boat. I'm still trying to figure this out but if a 480 CE were run on the power curve of a 450 diamond bringing usable horsepower more in the range of the QSB, wouldn't the 5.9 displacement of the QSB be working harder than the 8.3 displacement of the 480 CE? Working harder equals more heat which typically results in shorter engine life. I guess when I asked if the boat with the QSB was underpowered it was more question of is the engine being overworked.