Official 380 Thread

dc380 said:
First I'm not a plumber. But I have replaced the relief valve because mine was defective. Make sure the water pressure going into the boat is less then 45 PSI. I took the seat cushion off. I don't think you can reach the relief valve by reaching in the hatch. But it's worth a try.
Have someone stand outside to the side of the thru-hull and activate the relief valve. A steady stream of hot water will come out the thru-hull. Then deactivate the valve, it should stop completely. if it leaks shortly after, the relief valve should be replaced. You'll definitely have to remove the cushion to do that. The first replacement relief valve I put in leaked out the stem. It was defective, so I had the pleasure of doing it twice. Check your work after for a week or 2, the HW tray is not plumbed anywhere, and if it fills....
Click to expand...


It it was the relief valve! Thanks! Now just have to get the damn thing to unscrew
 
The first 2 are in the front corners, embedded in the carpet. The two in the back are a bear to get out. I never put them back in.
 
The back of the couch was not a problem. My relief valve was put on so tight that it will not unscrew from the outside of the water heater
 
In order to take mine off, I had to take off the electrical cover, and remove the hose that goes to the thru-hull and Bass nipple. Then I used a very large pipe wrench. It came off, although very slowly.
 
You guys are so smart! ;-)

Good work gator. The slow trickle clinched it for me as I was catching up on this thread - then I saw your EUREKA post. A friend at the marina just went through this same thing on his 420AC. Were you able to find a new valve locally? I think they're a weird size. Dave would know. 1/2" (?)
 
1/2" is correct. The one at your house is 3/4". I had a leak this past winter at the exit line of the HWH where the connection is brass on the HWH side and plastic on the downstram side. During the fix, I went ahead and replaced the pressure valve. My HWH sits in a recess in the floor that would hold most of the HWH volume, and there is a line that flows into the bilge from the pop off valve.

Don
 
The hose to the bilge is from the HWH drain. For some reason they didn't plumb the recess to the bilge or overboard, so if you're on dockside water and you lose the tank you're going to fill your cabin up.
 
It's a Watts 1/2 pressure relief valve. About $22.00. I don't think much for their customer service.
As I mentioned the first one I bought leaked out the stem. So I called them. They response was "Send us a picture"

OK, ever try taking a picture of a drop of water before it drips, in a dark place. The drop of water is invisible.
 
Yall are all correct. I got the valve off and ended up not having to take the electrical cover or anything else off. Once I got my hands on a pipe wrench I was able to turn it off no problem but without it I would have been S.O.L! I went to our local hardware store and they only carry the 3/4" so I am going to go by the plumbing warehouse tomorrow and hope that they carry a 1/2". One piece of advice for anyone in the future is to open the drain for the hot water heater to drain into the bilge while you are trying to get off the release valve. This way you don't end up with water in the area under the hot water heater. Thanks for all the advice
 
OK Campers, I have two questions. I rebuilt the VacuFlush Head in our 380 when we bought the boat in October, and the system has been working fabulously. Now the Vacuum pump has started to cycle again on its own again. This time I can hear a hissing sound by the bellows. Even with the port deck piece, and pump cover, removed I can not get my fat head in far enough to confirm if the leak is at the pump or of I am hearing the hissing from one of the stuck duck-bills. As this is a 2000 Boat with unknown maintenance I am thinking of the "shot gun approach". Just ordering four new duck-bills and a pump rebuild kit with a new bellows. As I am shopping it looks like for about $100 more than the rebuild kit I can just buy a new vacuum pump. Any suggestions, advice, or hardy laughter here would be appreciated. Also, the starboard wiper motor has 'bit the big one', and access seems marginal. Looks like maybe if I open the control panel, and remove one of the roof speakers, I might be able to get REALLY frustrated. How adept at 'Boat YOGA' do I have to be to replace the Starboard wiper motor? Anybody have pictures for a 380DA?? Thanks:smt100
 
I think the wiper motor is accessible through a removable panel in the cabin headliner.

I await answers to your vacuuflush question - I'm no help there.
 
rondds said:
I think the wiper motor is accessible through a removable panel in the cabin headliner.

I await answers to your vacuuflush question - I'm no help there.
Click to expand...
Thanks! If the whole panel comes down there must be some stealth screws? Maybe in the seams? There is a roof speaker that looks like it is right under the motor. I was hoping the speaker cover would pop off and you could remove the speaker for access. No such luck :huh:
 
If I recall, that's not a speaker. It is the access panel for the wiper motor and it just needs to be prayed out of the ceiling.


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If I recall, that's not a speaker.
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking. Turn up the tunes real loud and give it a listen. It think that's your access panel. Might be held in with christmas-tree fasteners but I'm not sure...
71918d1374269001-best-way-remove-plastic-rivets-christmas-tree-fastener.jpg
 
I think it's real strong Velcro. I've taken the port one off.
 
I think mine was just held in by friction. Wrap a screwdriver in a rag and insert it into the gap around the outside and pry it out.


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Thanks guys! I am going to give the wiper motor project a shot on Saturday. I will take pictures and report back. As far as the head issue, I might be able to make it down to the boat Thursday evening and remove the vacuum pump from the holding tank. Sometimes the old stuff is better than the new stuff so if everything looks rugged I may just replace the bellows and duck bills.
 
OK, two really cool things! First cool thing: On another thread someone had suggested a way to clear the duck bill valves (on the holding tank pump) was to fill the toilet bowl in the head and flush a big lump of water all at once. I was sure the "vacuum leak" I could hear was in the pump/bellows but I gave the 'fill-up-the-bowl' method a shot just for G.P. and it FIXED THE PROBLEM!! Saved me (at least temporarily) from a gorpy, ucky job and gave me a new weapon to use in case of future failure. Second cool thing: Ron, DC380, and 'quality time' were all right on the money with the "speaker cover". There is no speaker. The round cover that LOOKS like a speaker cover is an access panel for the wiper motor. I saw a squirrel this weekend, and have not done the job yet but it looks like it will not be bad with a little finesse. Thanks for the help!!
 
Yay! I got something right!
Glad you are finding some stuff that is EASY to fix - doesn't happen all that often!
 
rondds said:
Yay! I got something right!
Glad you are finding some stuff that is EASY to fix - doesn't happen all that often!
Click to expand...
Amen! and thanks for the help! Might even take the boat out next weekend, now that I am back to my regularly scheduled 'List':smt001
 
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