Official 370 Sundancer thread

Damn Rubber Duckee, you da man! Great idea. Weather here in Chicago was 40 and rainy all day so I sat home all day watching TV with the dogs. None of us wanted out. :smt001
I presume I'll be able to see how to get to the arch from there without having to take the bolster off?
 
Does anyone have bracket ideas or installation tips for upgrading this to a flat screen? Thanks!
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Different spin on the screens for the side windows.........Mine were ratty looking so I removed them, that was a few years ago and they were never replaced. When standing on the dock I didn't care for seeing "pink curtains" when looking at the side windows. So, just last week I removed all six of them, took them to a tint shop and had them darkened. Big improvement, now the window for the head looks like the rest of the windows and no more "pink curtains". We never pull the curtains back or open the those windows anyway except for the one in the head, so no need for screens..........just something to think about.

John
 
FourthSeaRay said:
Damn Rubber Duckee, you da man! Great idea. Weather here in Chicago was 40 and rainy all day so I sat home all day watching TV with the dogs. None of us wanted out. :smt001
I presume I'll be able to see how to get to the arch from there without having to take the bolster off?
Click to expand...


Great idea!
Not sure if you will be able to get your head into the cavity to see it...let alone reach it. It is farther away than you might think. I know when I was doing mine and accessing it from under the helm seat, it was a real stretch to get my hand up to the hole at the base of the arch. All that being said, it is great that you have that off and can clean up and fish the wire through easier.

Now that we have the "secret" on how to get it off, that will by on my list for next year as a clean up project. I have run SO many wires behind that area that they are now sort of twisted and intertwined.

Have fun!
 
banderson said:
Does anyone have bracket ideas or installation tips for upgrading this to a flat screen? Thanks!
View attachment 44393
Click to expand...

I won't say that it is my original idea as I got it from a friend on the dock, but... Here's what I did:

1. I traced the shape of the opening with the TV out. The top is slightly arched.
2. From there, you have two options. You could create a small filler piece to square off the top or you could cut the next piece taking the arch into account.
3. I cut a flat piece of bookshelving to the shape of the opening, but leaving the bottom two inches off. I used a piece of black ½" prefinished bookshelving.
4. Then I got a piece of ½" stainless piano hinge, cut it to length, fastened it to the top of the bookshelving and the top of the arch to create a "garage door" that lifts from the bottom and flips up.
5. I added a short pneumatic arm from West's to create some support when the door is up and a catch to hold the door shut when it is down.
6. I bolted a small articulated TV bracket to the door, drilled some holes to feed cables from the opening though the door to connect to the TV.

Since the flat panels are relatively light and thin, there is plenty of room to flip the door up to gain access to the space behind the TV. Leaving the space at the bottom allows for a grip to flip the door up, or in my case, room for the BlueRay player and Apple TV to fit behind the TV. Mounting the TV high enough, you can't see the hinge. At some point, I plan on installing shelves in the open space to organize storage better.

The brackets allow the TVs to be angled slightly for a better viewing angle from various positions in the boat.

Here's an example of what the forward stateroom looks like when done:
http://www.370sundancer.com/By Year/1998/Rubber Duckee/files/page3-1037-full.html

I'm not sure my description is 100% understandable, so I will try to take some pictures this weekend to show the details. As Confucious say, picture tells a thousand words.

Gene
 
Does anybody have any experience with their throttle assemblies? Mine are squeaking something fierce when they are moved. I have tried wd-40, silicone and white lithium and none have helped...other than for a few shifts. If I tighten them down to reduce the loose travel they just squeak more.

On top of that I can't get them out of the helm to see the "guts". In Sea Rays infinite wisdom they installed these with a screw and nylock nut. Anyone tried getting a hand or wrench in to hold that bugger to take it out? What a PIA!!! I can't figure this one out.

Can you remove the set screw all the way out and inject some grease into it? I was afraid to remove it all the way in fear of some part falling loose that I cant get back.
Any prior experience form anyone would be helpful.
Thanks

IMG_8123.JPGIMG_8124.JPG
 
I think at 27 mph I am running about 3300 rpm. Its been a long winter, so I'm not 100% sure, but i'll be in the water at the end of this week and will check it out further.
 
Hey Sundancers, recently purchased a 1996 370DA and In the bilge/engine compartment there are several rectangular lights, my question is, How do you turn them on? I can't seem to find a switch.....help!
 
At the helm there should be a switch on the left half of the panel labled lights with one of them being bilge. The bilge switch on the right side of the helm panel is for the actual bilge pump.
 
I was wondering what that switch was, headed out to the Yacht shortly and turn on the lights,,,,,thank you

FourthSeaRay said:
At the helm there should be a switch on the left half of the panel labled lights with one of them being bilge. The bilge switch on the right side of the helm panel is for the actual bilge pump.
Click to expand...
 
banderson said:
Does anyone have bracket ideas or installation tips for upgrading this to a flat screen? Thanks!
View attachment 44393
Click to expand...
similar to what Gene did, I built a face wall to fill the cavity of the cabinet. Instead of a garage door that swings up, I built a shelf with the face mounted on the front (think drive in movie screen). The TV is mounted flush to the face plate, and the assembly slides into the cavity with a couple of bolts in the back that drop into pre-drilled holes. Those get wing nuts put on by removing the stereo head below to reach the underneath. Then the 2 original screws that held the shelf in you have now are put back in the front. wanted to bolt down the back as all the weight is now on the faceplate with a flat screen. I had a 32" LCD there, but really, it was borderline too big. Moved back to a 24" and that's just fine for the space, and still covers the area. Mine is harder to get into and out of than Gene's so I may mod mine in the future. The gap in the bottom will be a perfect place for a Roku or Chromecast or a laptop connected to the TV. I've done it all at some point over the last 13 years.
 
quote: Does anybody have any experience with their throttle assemblies? Mine are squeaking something fierce when they are moved. I have tried wd-40, silicone and white lithium and none have helped...other than for a few shifts. If I tighten them down to reduce the loose travel they just squeak more.

On top of that I can't get them out of the helm to see the "guts". In Sea Rays infinite wisdom they installed these with a screw and nylock nut. Anyone tried getting a hand or wrench in to hold that bugger to take it out? What a PIA!!! I can't figure this one out.

Can you remove the set screw all the way out and inject some grease into it? I was afraid to remove it all the way in fear of some part falling loose that I cant get back.
Any prior experience form anyone would be helpful.
Thanks

In my experience, those are set screws against a spring which compresses to force a ball bearing (brass?) against the throttle top plate. I don't think the spring will fly out, and the bearing is facing down, so it shouldn't fall out. Other helms have them in the side, and stuff will fall out when you open those. Still simple. I'd put grease in them, not wd40.
Your squeak could be something else, though, like the plunger in the cable, or the swing arm that pushes it (on an axle, so you will have to remove the helm to get to it).
 
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Added a couple items this week!
I was tired of stuff rolling around on the dash so the glove box was a perfect fit.
Also added under cabinet LED light strip and wired it to the courtesy light switch.

IMG_8127.JPGIMG_8128.JPGIMG_8129.JPG

1 more week and we are floating!!!
 
TheWolfTC said:
My wife came up with a great idea to add more counter space on our 370. Since we don't use the stove all that often we wanted to cover it and create a flat surface to work from. She went to Bed Bath & Beyond, (The TRIPLE B), and found these awesome bamboo cutting boards. They fit the stove top perfectly!!!

Here is a link to the finished product:(just in case it doesn't show up when I post it)
http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/Thewolftc/library/Cutting Board


Here is the link to the item at BBB:
http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/sto...board/1041584521?Keyword=bamboo+cutting+board

Cooktop_zps3y7mjfn7.jpg
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Did you have to make any alteration to the 2 cutting board?
 
Not sure how he did, I took the easy way. My under cabinet LED rope is plugged in on the underside cabinet plug in on the far right, have a toggle switch for use. Wife really loves them as they light up the counter tops well - and you can't see any of the rope or anything. Very economical and functional upgrade.
 
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