Official 370 Sundancer thread

Fly'n Family said:
Not sure how he did, I took the easy way. My under cabinet LED rope is plugged in on the underside cabinet plug in on the far right, have a toggle switch for use. Wife really loves them as they light up the counter tops well - and you can't see any of the rope or anything. Very economical and functional upgrade.
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I did that to the underside of the cabinet over the sofa with just the plug. Never thought of using toggle switch Thanks for the idea. I do have another led rope so I will do that.
 
connie garcy said:
Did you have to make any alteration to the 2 cutting board?
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Hi Connie,
No alterations at all. They fit as shown out of the box. I thought I might try and connect them to make 1 board but my wife nixed that idea. As it turns out it is actually easier 2 deal with 2 pieces as opposed to 1. When we want to use the stove the 2 paces take up less space to store away.
 
connie garcy said:
How did you access the light switch wiring for you lights?
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I purchased the glove box at:http://www.searay-parts.com/Paragon-Plastics-Glove-Dash-Storage-Box-p/plastics30024 glovebox.htm
The total project took 45 minutes to measure tape and cut. I made a cardboard template using the glove box so it was exactly the same size, then transferred the cutout to the dash area to be cut. Pre drilled the inside of the glove box for 6 screws and bingo, all done. Make sure you have SHARP blades. The helm is 3/4" thick in this area and quite solid. I went through 2 jigsaw blades pretty quick then I went with the sawzall blade and knocked it out.

I added the LED strips on both sides of the salon. What you see in this post under the cabinets is a 10' led strip I purchased on Amazon....http://www.amazon.com/16-4ft-Lights...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
These are easy to work with and easy to cut to length.

Wiring: The 3 rocker light switch to the left when you step down into the galley..the middle switch is for the courtesy lights. I took the 2 screws out and pulled the plate out for easy access. At the left of the stove under the edge is where you will start installing the led light strip. It has an adhesive back and sticks VERY well...don't start YET!!! The LED strip came with a short wire feed already soldered to it, and I need to add 6 more inches to make it easier to work with so I soldered the wires to make them longer.

My first thought was to simply drill a small enough hole to feed the 22 GA. wire though in the corner of the cabinet where it is hidden up under the edge. This is below the DC Voltage access panel of course. Just look through the light switch hole and you will see the corner from the inside. As it turns out I didn't need to drill at all, I simply used a screwdriver and lightly pried the cabinet apart and fed the wires up into the cavity. The wood laminate pieces are not caulked so it was pretty easy to just fish it through. All of this is invisible to you unless you were to lay your head on the stove and look up to the left under the edge.

Once I fed the wires through to the cover plate hole, I crimped a new female connector on the Red wire and attached it to the BLUE wire on the back of the switch. If you connect it to the RED power wire they will be on all the time. The ground (-) wire from the LED strip I spliced into the BLACK wires behind the cover plate. Voila your done with the wiring. Test the switch to make sure its right then screw the cover plate back on. Peel the adhesive backing off a little at a time and start sticking it under the edge. A 10" strip will be long enough but don't cut it until you get to the end. Follow the instructions on your LED strip so you know where to cut it.

For the stbd side, above the mirrors but under the cabinets, I did the same thing. This time I connected it to the light switch on the stbd wall that controls the 2 lights above the windows. This was just as easy. Take the switch plate off and pull out of the way as much as possible. Push the wires through in the top corner where the 2 vinyls meet. The wires will fall down into the cavity and you can simply reach in and pull them out to connect to the switch. Both projects took 15 minutes each.

If you would like I will take pictures and post them as to where the wires went and how I hid them.
 
Thank you for getting back to me. When you connected the lights over the sofa do the over head lights come on and stay on or are they independent of the overhead lights? Pictures would be great if you don't mind.
 
I have to agree with you wife, it would be easer to move and store them when not needed. None of the BBB in our area have them in stock so I would have to order them, but I did find them on line at Home Depot so ordered them today. We hardly us or stove so this is a great idea. You and your wife have done a beautiful job on the interior. Thanks for the info.
 
connie garcy said:
Thank you for getting back to me. When you connected the lights over the sofa do the over head lights come on and stay on or are they independent of the overhead lights? Pictures would be great if you don't mind.
Click to expand...

To make sure I am clear. There is a 120v overhead light as well as two 12v lights. I am connecting the new led strips to the 12v light switch.

In my case the 12v lights would come on with the led strip I added as described earlier. BUT, my 2 overhead 12v lights have independent on/off switches on them and I suspect yours do as well. So, if I only want the led accent light strip on I can simply flip the switches on the 2 lights. A couple years ago I switched the bulbs in those 2 lights (actually all of my 12v lights) to LED. It made for a much nicer salon area with the white LED lights versus the yellow standard bulbs. The same in the mid berth. The bright white led's are so much nicer for reading (In my opinion...lol)

I'll get pictures today.
Bill
 
370Dancer said:
similar to what Gene did, I built a face wall to fill the cavity of the cabinet. Instead of a garage door that swings up, I built a shelf with the face mounted on the front (think drive in movie screen). The TV is mounted flush to the face plate, and the assembly slides into the cavity with a couple of bolts in the back that drop into pre-drilled holes. Those get wing nuts put on by removing the stereo head below to reach the underneath. Then the 2 original screws that held the shelf in you have now are put back in the front. wanted to bolt down the back as all the weight is now on the faceplate with a flat screen. I had a 32" LCD there, but really, it was borderline too big. Moved back to a 24" and that's just fine for the space, and still covers the area. Mine is harder to get into and out of than Gene's so I may mod mine in the future. The gap in the bottom will be a perfect place for a Roku or Chromecast or a laptop connected to the TV. I've done it all at some point over the last 13 years.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. This is going to be my weekend project, so hope all goes well. I agree with the smaller TV, anything bigger then a 24" is too much.

Thanks,
-Bryan
 
connie garcy said:
Thank you for getting back to me. When you connected the lights over the sofa do the over head lights come on and stay on or are they independent of the overhead lights? Pictures would be great if you don't mind.
Click to expand...

Hi Connie,
Here is a link to a couple of pics as to where I ran the wires for the LED strips lights.
http://s1050.photobucket.com/user/Thewolftc/library/LED lights

Nothing fancy and pretty straightforward. The 2 lights above the settee do come on, but they are also switchable at their base.
Hope that helps.
Bill
 
RubberDuckeeToo2 said:
I drilled a small hole opposite the screw from inside the seat base. That way I could fit a screwdriver tip through and unscrew that one screw.

Gene
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Thanks to TheWolf and Rubber Duckee for their advice on my VFH calbe route. Taking off the bolster is the key. From there i pushed my fish wire down the outside of the wire loom and was able to hook the wire with a hanger from the helm. At the helm, I took off all but the last screw of the plastic panel and just pulled it back from the top a couple of inches. Just enough to snag my pull wire. From there it was an easy route to the radio. Thanks again gentlemen. Love this forum and LOVE my SeaRay! :)
 
Hello Everyone,

I am in need of purchasing the plastic cover for the bilge blower on the starboard aft corner. I had a rope catch on it and cracked it. Any where I can go for the piece?

Thanks
 
belliswood said:
Hello Everyone,

I am in need of purchasing the plastic cover for the bilge blower on the starboard aft corner. I had a rope catch on it and cracked it. Any where I can go for the piece?

Thanks
Click to expand...

I've had a lot of luck getting stuff from searayman13 on ebay. Good guy that knows our boats and gets things to you pretty quick.
 
RubberDuckeeToo2 said:
I promised some pics of the install of the flat panel TV on Rubber Duckee, but elected to actually post them. So here is the TV, the bracket and the door that I installed.

http://www.370sundancer.com/By Year/1998/Rubber Duckee/files/page3-1042-full.html

http://www.370sundancer.com/By Year/1998/Rubber Duckee/files/page3-1043-full.html

http://www.370sundancer.com/By Year/1998/Rubber Duckee/files/page3-1044-full.html

Gene
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Thanks Gene! Very helpful. How do keep the door from moving during transit?
 
Gene, Nice job looks great! I took out the old TV and built a cabinet for wine, rock and Margareta glasses. I put a TV on the radar arch with a quick disconnect mount so I can move the same TV to other locations. Only issue I have is the antenna not working. Think it is the cable. Thanks for the link will check it when I get home.

Barry
 
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