Official 370 Sundancer thread

Making some progress on the new canvas!

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Bottom paint should be hydocoat on a 99,i belive that was searays option back then.
 
I have twin 1997 7.4 L MPI engines on my 370 Sundancer
I am wondering if you can receive data from these engines and send it to a multifunction display?
Has anyone done this?
if so what would be required to do this?


Thanks in advance
Chuck
 
1956olds said:
Bottom paint should be hydocoat on a 99,i belive that was searays option back then.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the info. Its not really bad, we purchased it in 2006 and it had been sitting in storage for 3 years and we are located on the NY Canal. Where it shows the most ware is under the swimplatform.
 
cjcray said:
I have twin 1997 7.4 L MPI engines on my 370 Sundancer
I am wondering if you can receive data from these engines and send it to a multifunction display?
Has anyone done this?
if so what would be required to do this?


Thanks in advance
Chuck
Click to expand...

Chuck, I have been investigating this since I bought my 98 back in 2003. The short answer is yes, there is useful data coming from the ECUs, and no, there is no "multi-function" display for this vintage engine. Newer engines (MEFI-5 I believe) and up started using the OBDII Can bus instead of MEFI, which is incompatible with OBDII. There are very few devices that will read MEFI data. One, is a Rinda, which is a diagnostic tool marine mechanics use to view, reset and analyze engine codes. There is a company that makes an MEFI 10 pin to USB cable, and then sells PC based scanning software for a couple hundred bucks. Google MEFI scan and tune, and you will find them. One other obsolete item was made by B&G, called a Network ENG display. This is what you and I would like to have. Unfortunately, they are out of that business, and I have only seen one new company go after the MEFI market. They want nearly 3,000 for a setup, so I won't even bother to mention them.
If anyone else has discovered something, that would be great, but I monitor that subject pretty regularly, and haven't seen a reasonable solution.
If someone could make an equivalent to the ELM327 OBDII Bluetooth adaptor, and then create an app or a hard display to monitor it, I think there would be a substantial market for it. MEFI is just so old by software standards, and such a small market compared to the automotive version, that no one wants to invest in it.
 
I replaced mine with the same refrigerator you did. I made a frame for the opening upside down "U", and mounted the fridge in the middle. Looking at our lifestyle onboard, the boat is never without 110v for more than a few minutes, so I am happy with A/C only. I have also considered putting an inverter in, and having a switch to move from 110 to 12v for those winter nights in Fl where we don't need A/C. I did that on a previous boat when the built in inverter gave up the 12v part. Put the fridge on 12 all the time, and kept it going with the converter/charger at dock, and genset on the water. I figure I can replace that Haier 6 or 7 times for the same price and less hassle than finding another DE.
 
370dancer

Thank you very much for the Info.
I kind of figured that there weren't to many options since no one talks about it.
I appreciate your feedback.

Chuck
 
How do these lights come out to change the bulbs,i have one that keeps coming on and off its driving me nuts.boat5-3-14 001.jpgboat5-3-14 018.jpg Also need to find a replacement for that sticker under the transom light,and want to put a flatscreen under where those first lights are so i can use the 13"with vcr for a aft anchor.Any suggestions?Glen
 
I assume you are speaking about the interior lights. The outside chrome bezel has to be pried off. I just changed all my bulbs out to LED's so I got plenty of practice.
 
Yes the interior lights,i thought they might twist to unlock them.Didnt try prying figured unreplaceable if i ruined them.When the tv is gone i will cut the spacer between that compartment and the lower hanging locker out then have a new door made so it will be full length and more user friendly.
 
Captain Allen said:
I assume you are speaking about the interior lights. The outside chrome bezel has to be pried off. I just changed all my bulbs out to LED's so I got plenty of practice.
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I was just looking at replacing those lights myself this weekend. Captain Allen, do you have any recommendations on the LEDs to replace them with? I figure you replaced the whole housing?
 
My interior lights have a bezel that you have to carefully pry off. Just get the blade of a screwdriver over the lip and work it gently. I you get the blade deeper than the thickness of the metal, it will catch the base underneath. The lamp inside is a wedge-type bulb. I got them from Marinebeam.com. I only replaced the bulb, not the entire fixture. For 10 lamps, it cost about $125.00. I am well-pleased with the outcome.
 
Thanks all ,i am considering leds for those interior lights ,it seemed a lot brighter in there when i bought the boat but with time and trying to work in there ive noticed its not bright enough.I guess my pictures got flipflopped somehow,thats wierd and it didnt make the message come out the way i intended.Glen
 
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Fantastic - with a wrinkle, of course. The part referenced in my prior post was the wrong size. I ordered a 10" actuator when in fact, the windscreen application requires an 8". The "deep knowledge" here is that the measurement refers to the throw length of the actuator, not the length of the actuator itself. After receiving the 10" unit I took it to boat and found that I'd ordered the wrong size. I contacted the eBay seller, deezeeauto, for an exchange and I have to say these folks are customer service pros. They explained the metrics of actuators and shipped the correct size unit to me the same day - I shipped back the 10" unit in parallel.

Yesterday, I installed the new actuator and it works perfectly. It is quieter than the Warner Electric original and it's water resistant - designed for marine applications. Overall the new unit appears to be much more sturdy - I just hope it lasts as long as the original (17 years)!

The only concern I have is that the new actuator appears to be much more powerful (225 lbs. thrust) than the original. When opening and closing the windscreen, I will need to take care not to open it too far or put too much pressure on it when closing the windscreen such that it would damage the mountings or break the glass.

Installation: the new actuator mount hole at the push end of the device is horizontal and the mount requires a vertical hole. I had to drill the vertical hole which was not too difficult. If you use the same actuator device, carefully determine the distance from the end of the actuator to where the hole needs to be drilled. Electrical connections were simple - marine grade crimp connectors followed by heat shrinking and a liberal dose of liquid electrical tape.

Chip
 
RubberDuckeeToo2 said:
These lights take "festoon" bulbs. They are only present in my cockpit on the '98. Two screws and the chrome bezel comes right off and I replaced the bulbs with these from Superbrightleds:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/festoon-series-bulbs/filter/Base,4410,1,5033:

Gene
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I used these bulbs for the bilge, hanging closets and the lamp under the sink:
http://www.amazon.com/Brightech-Gen...w+and+Improved+Design+for+Greatest+Efficiency

I used these bulbs for the lights in the salon over the sink, mid berth, head and forward berth: (The lights with the chrome bezels)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009S1DJSC/ref=pe_309540_26725410_item

I used these bulbs for the directional lights over the v berth bed, mid berth and salon: (The lights you can rotate)
http://www.superbrightleds.com/search/led-products/1156-x18-T 1156 LED Bulb/

And lastly I ordered the following in blue for the cockpit lights: (Radar arch and floor lighting)
http://www.superbrightleds.com/search/led-products/3910-x6/

Hope that helps...
 
Does anyone know what size pex (FW) tubing our boats use. Mine is a 1996. I was pretty sure it was 15mm but got some sea-tech 15mm fittings and for the life of me could not get them onto my tubing. Replaced the shower faucet and cockpit faucet and wanted to use the sea-tech fittings instead of the terrible ones that came with the boat. The FW tubing on my boat is grey if that helps.

THANKS!
 
tommyadrian5 said:
Does anyone know what size pex (FW) tubing our boats use. Mine is a 1996. I was pretty sure it was 15mm but got some sea-tech 15mm fittings and for the life of me could not get them onto my tubing. Replaced the shower faucet and cockpit faucet and wanted to use the sea-tech fittings instead of the terrible ones that came with the boat. The FW tubing on my boat is grey if that helps.

THANKS!
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I once had this problem and one of the mechanics at the boat manufacture told me to go to an RV store for pumping parts. They had all the fittings. Same exact stuff that was on the boat.
 
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