Official 370 Sundancer thread

My 1995 370 is a great boat and I think it is one of the best models they ever built. I have a question about steering, I know there have been many other posts regarding mechanical steering but some are too generic as they may not relate to my boat. The only flaw is that Searay built these with mechanical steering in 1995 with Hydraulic as an option. Mine has mechanical. It is pretty stiff (always has been) but I'm not sure what it should be like. I know it is stiffer than hydraulic, and much stiffer than power steering. I've disconnected the cable at the rudder assembly and it steers easier (I can use 1 hand to turn the wheel) but how easy should it be?

So my question is: I don't mind replacing it but do not want to so unless it needs it. MM quoted me 4-5 hours of labor plus parts, plus service call. Again it's not about spending the money and I want it right. But I also don't want to replace something that not's needed.

I know this may be hard to answer but I am hopeful that some of you other 370 owners with mechanical steering can give me some insight. Or mechanics. Thanks in advance!
 
1991 350/370 da

I'm hoping someone has already tackled this problem, I have a 91 350/370 sundancer, the port windows have small cracks in them and I want to replace them before they get worse, has anyone did this and if so where did they find replacement windows at? any help would be great,
 
Re: 1991 350/370 da

Hi Gang, I was out looking at a '09 370DA today. It has twin 8.1 Horizons powering v-drives as well as factory-installed bow and stern thrusters. Not familiar w/ the thrusters, anybody have any experience or issues with them? ... esp the stern thruster which looks odd to me and looks like it would add a fair bit of drag going through the water. Probably no big deal, its just equipment I'm not familiar with. Appreciate replies on this as well as any other possible issues I maybe should look into.

Thx/- Stevedore
 
Disregard, I called a few seaway dealers from the web and they couldn't help and said they weren't made anymore, called my local sea ray dealer and they found replacements, so no help needed
 
Nice looking boat Chase........something about the lower arch (i.e. correct height) makes those boats sleeker looking. We need more info on your boat, like upgrades and stuff.

John
 
Re: 1991 350/370 da

Grangokieboater said:
I'm hoping someone has already tackled this problem, I have a 91 350/370 sundancer, the port windows have small cracks in them and I want to replace them before they get worse, has anyone did this and if so where did they find replacement windows at? any help would be great,
Click to expand...

I replaced mine last summer. I ordered them from Ken at Flounder Pounder marine. He had an entire skid load of them last summer. Be aware that there were 2 different hole patterns for the mounts. As luck would have it I was sent the wrong size on the first go round...lol Ken took care of me and sent the other size..He said that even he wasn't aware of the hole pattern changes. So, if you order them, measure the hole distance from the left outer hole to the right outer hole for accuracy.
All the Best
Bill
 
Re: 1991 350/370 da

TheWolfTC said:
I replaced mine last summer. I ordered them from Ken at Flounder Pounder marine. He had an entire skid load of them last summer. Be aware that there were 2 different hole patterns for the mounts. As luck would have it I was sent the wrong size on the first go round...lol Ken took care of me and sent the other size..He said that even he wasn't aware of the hole pattern changes. So, if you order them, measure the hole distance from the left outer hole to the right outer hole for accuracy.
All the Best
Bill
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up
 
Electronics questions

I have a 97 370 and i am looking at updating/upgrading my electronics. Is there anything that my old B and G square gauges and Furono radar work with so all i have to do is change my user interfaces. I would love a touch screen display

Thanks

Tom
 
Hey folks, trying to clean up since I sold my beloved 370. I have a set of props that came with the boat as the spare. They are 18/21 3 blade props. Appear to be in good shape. Let me known if anyone is interested.
 
Hello 370 experts! I want to do some wiring and I am wondering about the cable chase'. I want to put in fuel flow meters and I need to know where the chase from the engine compatment comes out at the helm. How do I get into the helm? Also would like to know if there is a cable run that goes from the engine compartment into the radar arch on either side?

Does anyone have any pics?

Thanks

Barry
 
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I did this exercise when installing a fume detector in the engine compartment. In my 1998 there was a 1.5 inch PVC corrugated wire chase (grey color) from the helm to the engine compartment. In the engine room it terminated on the starboard side just above the starboard side fuel tank, near the secondary fuel filters. At the helm, the best way to get to it was by removing the woofer (i.e. it was behind the kick plate on the starboard side i.e. the FRP starboard side of the cockpit). If you do not have the woofer there you may have to remove the storage compartment that is just aft of where the woofer would be. It also helps to reach in through the circuit breaker compartment that is right there at your feet (when standing at the helm). Note you have to feel around for it as I could not see it through the woofer hole as it was behind a whole lot of other wires and another wire chase that also ran to the engine compartment. And pleasant surprise was that the spare chase had an orange pull wire already in it.

As far as a chase into the radar arch, at least one exists, but i don't know if there is a spare. You get to it through the cockpit lockers on either side of the cockpit. I think it is on the starboard side. Speaker wires, radar, GPs, radio antenna, VHF antenna, and arch lights all run through it. Lay on your back stick your head in the compartment and look up. You know you are in the right place when you see the large bolts that secure the arch.

Good luck.

Johng
 
Piggy backing on John G's answer...
I just spent the Christmas holiday running all new wires for a multitude of additions. The hardest was the radar arch wire....I was able to get to it through the seat compartment. Take the seat cushion off so that the seat back lays down flat. On the starboard side there should be a small access panel held on by 3 screws. Remove this panel then pray! I had to lay on my back and extend my arm into this access hole as far as I could to reach the bottom of the arch and find the wires coming from the arch...here was the challenge...there was NOT an actual pipe chase through the hole, it was only the plastic corrugated chafe guard and wouldn't my luck be that there was a very tight "zip" tie at the exact point the chafe guard came through the hole. This zip tie would not allow for the wires to pull through with any sort of ease...let alone the plugs at the end of the radar dome itself.

To assist in my re-wiring project I had to cut this access hole slightly larger so I could get more of my arm in to work. I then used a razor blade with a hook knife end to reach up to the wire tie and cut it away. This was all done by "feel" as I could not get my head in there at all. I took a few picture with my iPhone held up in there to get an idea of what I was dealing with. Once I was able to get the zip tie the radar wire came out easily. (And yes, I did tape a new piece of line to the end of the wire to utilize later when I pulled the new wires back through. )

There should be an access hole at your feet on the starboard side helm station...take that off and set it aside. I also removed my speaker that is located next to the throttles, it helped as well. Don't even think of taking out the storage compartment at the stbd helm...way too much work....I know because I got it half apart and was getting no where...other than to clean under the dirty helm seat after it was removed...lol

I had to run new wires from the auto pilot command box to the helm and this was quite easy since I simply taped the new wires to the old wire and it fed through the plastic chase with ease. Another good access point to get wires up and through is ironically located in the mid berth...stbd side shelf. If yopu remove thescrews you will gain access to the top of the gas tank area and you will see where some wires run up through the floor board. I found it easier to access and fish my transducer wire up this way than through the engine compartment trying to lean over the transmission and around all the other stuff. The transducer wire with it's fittings were too large for the chase tube.

I was able to use the chase for the new autopilot wires and underwater light wires to the helm. Next year I am going to add the fuel flow sensors and a couple other items to the electronics system and I will be abke to do ti blindfolded since I know how this friggin boat was built now...LOL. In the end, the toughest part was the wire into the radar arch..that hole was a bugger and it was hard tro get to. There was no access from the rear storage compartment on my boat, trust me I looked!!

Have fun and I look forward to hearing how it all turns out.
Bill
PS: what 'head" unit do you have that you are connecting the fuel level/flow sensors to? (I have a Lowrance HDS10)
 
Thanks everyone for the info on the wire chase's. I want to put power outlets on the radar arch and pull the fuel flow sensors up to the helm. I an mot ready to start this task as of yet (just researching). I hope to be doing it this summer though.

Bill, I have the Lowrance HDS10 also, I realy like it. It is very easy to operate and network with. I do need to get an auto pilot but that will be a future project.

Barry
 
mboater95 said:
Doug,

I fabricated the threshold out of 3/4" maple. Joined three pieces together and made a template of the curve and cut it out from there.
Its about 1/4 taller but works out very nice. I was licky to match the stain and coated it with a satin clear.

Marty
Click to expand...


Great Job!!! Where did you get the spiral staircase? Did you make it or have it custom made?
 

quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by mboater95
Doug,

I fabricated the threshold out of 3/4" maple. Joined three pieces together and made a template of the curve and cut it out from there.
Its about 1/4 taller but works out very nice. I was licky to match the stain and coated it with a satin clear.

Marty




Great Job!!! Where did you get the spiral staircase? Did you make it or have it custom made?

The staircase I found on Flounder Pounder marine, It was for a 390 sundancer which worked out great!

Marty​
 
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