Official 370 Sundancer thread

ZZ13 said:
Everytime I see your sig picture I think that the shadows on your hull would make a great looking custom two-tone hull. At first I thought that's what it was. Would look fabulous if it were real.
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LOL....I never really noticed that but you are right...it would be a great looking hull.
 
New topic....Engine compartment. My boat was in salt water for a few years prior to it being in freshwater. All of the brass sea strainers, gland nuts and fittings have the green patina on them that just looks ugly. Is there a product that can be used to spray on the fittings, nuts, shafts etc to clean that off? I don't think Brasso will do the trick. I thought I saw a thread somewhere that a person may have used WD-40 to clean them but now I can't find it?

I know it's just an esthetic item, but while I am down there I might as well freshen them up....any input would be appreciated.
 
TheWolfTC said:
Hi Jon,
Crazy situation out east for you for sure!!! I have been remodeling my boat this fall and I do have the carpet runners you speak of. They are actually in really good shape and most certainly were a "stretch" to a tight fit. Since we put down a flooring that does not require runners I would be happy to let you borrow them and see how they work for you. Might as well do a test fit and see how it goes. The link to my current remodeling project is post #1579.
Let me know and I will do what I can to help.
Bill
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Familiar situation..... I once looked for a set of vent covers so I could have some molds made. I made a plea here on CSR, and Jon stepped up and sent me his. It's great that you are offering your floor runners. That's pay it forward in action, right Jon?
BTW, I am TOTALLY impressed with the Plasteak install, and the detail you did capture. I've wanted to do this but was struggling with how to finish the exposed edges, and deal with the floor hatches. Much clearer now.
Thanks for sharing!
 
mtnandy said:
I saw a recent post on this and the mentioned using a mixture of vinegar and salt followed up with a brush. Also suggested using diluted muratic acid
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If you use the acid, make sure it's really dilluted. I messed up a sea strainer with acid that was too strong. try the other solution first.
 
370Dancer said:
If you use the acid, make sure it's really dilluted. I messed up a sea strainer with acid that was too strong. try the other solution first.
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If you don't mind me asking...what got messed up OR how did you mess it up?

I have been diluting it about 30-50% with water (acid poured into the water of course)...I haven't seen any ill effects and my strainers look almost new. I even went as far as to take the fittings (In flow and out flow) completely off and re-tape them when I put them back together. After the acid bath I would soak them in clean freshwater for a while then give them a bath in baking soda and rinse again. I think I had it all covered..??
 
370Dancer said:
Familiar situation..... I once looked for a set of vent covers so I could have some molds made. I made a plea here on CSR, and Jon stepped up and sent me his. It's great that you are offering your floor runners. That's pay it forward in action, right Jon?
BTW, I am TOTALLY impressed with the Plasteak install, and the detail you did capture. I've wanted to do this but was struggling with how to finish the exposed edges, and deal with the floor hatches. Much clearer now.
Thanks for sharing!
Click to expand...

Hi Jon,
Merry Christmas to you!
The Plasteak was really fun...I'm kind of sad it's all done. Plasteak offers an ARRAY flexible of trims and moldings now, much more than they show on their website. If you would like I can email you the picture I received from them to see if any of these would be beneficial to your install. The trims are flexible and simply needed to be bent with a heat gun or hairdryer. The bend at the mid berth floor where it steps down didn't require any heat at all, it was flexible enough to make the curve without it.
I do have some tips on the edges for the hatches if you decide to do it. This was the more challenging area due to the fact that the Plasteak must be perfectly aligned with the flooring at the ends of the hatches.

As for all the pics...my brother is a photographer and I learned from him to take pics of everything so we can see what we did and what the progress was but to also be able to blog it..LOL He spent the past year restoring/rebuilding from the ground up a 66 VW bug. As he was doing various parts he would even film it, then edit it into high speed so you could watch a 1 hour project in less than 10 minutes. The cool part was that if he got stuck on something he could go to the blogs, post his p pics and get answers from other people doing the same thing....So I give him the credit. :)
 
randerson said:
It is now obvious to me that you guys are talking about the dockside water connection, not the shore power connection. Yes, that is a very poor design. I must admit, I've never used it...I just use my freshwater tank. That should be very easy to re-route to an outside connection.
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Yes, terrible location on my 1994 370 EC for water connection, because you cannot close the transom door with hose connected. WE sometimes use our boat as a weekend condo and having good public water supply is a must. I usually run the dockside water hose through the cockpit drain to connect.
 
370Dancer said:
Familiar situation..... I once looked for a set of vent covers so I could have some molds made. I made a plea here on CSR, and Jon stepped up and sent me his. It's great that you are offering your floor runners. That's pay it forward in action, right Jon?
BTW, I am TOTALLY impressed with the Plasteak install, and the detail you did capture. I've wanted to do this but was struggling with how to finish the exposed edges, and deal with the floor hatches. Much clearer now.
Thanks for sharing!
Click to expand...

My appologies again for not following up on my post, things have been crazy catching up from the storm. As far as my runners, I spoke to my canvas guy and he said he prefers to fit the runners right on the boat instead of working from templates. I have taken the opportunity of the restoring the boat from the storm damage to do some interior upgrades. I removed the seating from the salon and aft cabin and have an interior shop redoing all the componets in ultra leather. I removed all the bolsters from the forward stateroom and are recovering them in some Sea Ray quilted fabric I bought from Great Lakes Skipper. I am trading out the old TV VCR's for new flat screen DVD's. I am also repairing the rotted frame from the helm seat which is project I know 370Dancer has tackled in the past.

I too have considered relocating the shore power and fresh water inlets to the transom trunk. The water relocation would be very straight forward but the electric is more involved as the ABYC requires separate circuit breakers on any shore power inlet connection that is more that 10' from the main panel so in addition to moving the inlets, you would also have to add these circuit breakers, not to mention that if you want to retain the ability to use either the old inlets or the new inlets you need to add a selector switch with a lock out so you wont energize the unused inlets. Right now my slip is at the end of a T dock with a port side tie so the OEM outlets are in a great location. My shore power cords are only 10' long.
 
J Levine said:
My appologies again for not following up on my post, things have been crazy catching up from the storm. As far as my runners, I spoke to my canvas guy and he said he prefers to fit the runners right on the boat instead of working from templates. I have taken the opportunity of the restoring the boat from the storm damage to do some interior upgrades. I removed the seating from the salon and aft cabin and have an interior shop redoing all the componets in ultra leather. I removed all the bolsters from the forward stateroom and are recovering them in some Sea Ray quilted fabric I bought from Great Lakes Skipper. I am trading out the old TV VCR's for new flat screen DVD's. I am also repairing the rotted frame from the helm seat which is project I know 370Dancer has tackled in the past.

I too have considered relocating the shore power and fresh water inlets to the transom trunk. The water relocation would be very straight forward but the electric is more involved as the ABYC requires separate circuit breakers on any shore power inlet connection that is more that 10' from the main panel so in addition to moving the inlets, you would also have to add these circuit breakers, not to mention that if you want to retain the ability to use either the old inlets or the new inlets you need to add a selector switch with a lock out so you wont energize the unused inlets. Right now my slip is at the end of a T dock with a port side tie so the OEM outlets are in a great location. My shore power cords are only 10' long.
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Glad to hear you are doing well!
So when you relocate the water connection, where do you think you will put it?:huh:
My 370 has the shore power on the port side mid-ship but the water is in that rear storage locker...P.I.T.A!!! Although I found a small diameter hose that will work and still allow the transom door to close, it sucks. I am always worried about it dripping or leaking and getting the carpet wet inside their etc. If you or anyone has a good placement for this connection I would love to see it.
Thanks
 
Doug,

I fabricated the threshold out of 3/4" maple. Joined three pieces together and made a template of the curve and cut it out from there.
Its about 1/4 taller but works out very nice. I was licky to match the stain and coated it with a satin clear.

Marty
 
mboater95 said:
Hi fellow 370 dancers,

So here is my 1 1/2 year project, new 3/8 thick maple engineered flooring with new hatch designs and staircase.
I did the floor portion last yeat and just got done with the open staircase. Its from a 390 dancer which worked out very nice.
http://s1311.beta.photobucket.com/u...brary/?&_suid=1357836122365043102581177812116

Marty
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Wow...GREAT job Marty!!!
Wish I had seen this before I finished mine as I love the piano hinge on the hatches and the hydraulic arm to hold it up...GREAT idea! I also love the open steps leading down...I totally could have done that too.

Be proud of your work it is EXCELLENT!!!

One thing that I did was to take the table base in the salon and went to my local paint shop. I had them re-paint it to my desired color to match. You could do the same with yours and have them paint it the wood flooring color so it blends in if you wanted. You will have to go to an auto paint shop to select the paint that they use to paint cars with but it is worth it. I bought a pint of my color and it was that last touch for me to finish it off.
 
Thanks WolfTC,
Its been a fun project and I am very happy on the outcome. Thats a good idea on the pedastal base, I was torn about even putting it back but we do use the table alot.
I was thinking of having a solid surface or corian taple top made maybe more of an oval shape, seems like it look better than the current table.
I have a guestion for you, what stopped you from carrying the floor all the way forward into the v berth? matarial issue? I think the wood floor is an awesome upgrade to our boats!
Take Care!

Marty
 
mboater95 said:
Thanks WolfTC,
Its been a fun project and I am very happy on the outcome. Thats a good idea on the pedastal base, I was torn about even putting it back but we do use the table alot.
I was thinking of having a solid surface or corian taple top made maybe more of an oval shape, seems like it look better than the current table.
I have a guestion for you, what stopped you from carrying the floor all the way forward into the v berth? matarial issue? I think the wood floor is an awesome upgrade to our boats!
Take Care!

Marty
Click to expand...

Man, I am impressed! Very nice, where do you find the time for a 1 1/2 year project?
 
mboater95 said:
Thanks WolfTC,
Its been a fun project and I am very happy on the outcome. Thats a good idea on the pedastal base, I was torn about even putting it back but we do use the table alot.
I was thinking of having a solid surface or corian taple top made maybe more of an oval shape, seems like it look better than the current table.
I have a guestion for you, what stopped you from carrying the floor all the way forward into the v berth? matarial issue? I think the wood floor is an awesome upgrade to our boats!
Take Care!

Marty
Click to expand...

I am having a new table made out of corian for the salon as well...slightly longer on each end.

We decided to stop at the forward berth door because when my little wifey gets up in the morning she likes to have her toes in something soft and not a hard surface....simply put, it made mama happy!!! (and you know what that means..:smt001 ). She was insistent upon some softness under her feet in the forward berth and the mid berth...?? Anyway, that was truly the deciding factor. Although I would add that during the templating process I must admit that it would have been a real challenge to do that all in 1 piece and get it perfect..not to mention the installation aspect of getting it laid properly in their as 1 piece. We didn't want to cut it at the door and create a seam either...so maybe I got a bit lazy and decided that carpet was going to be easier...LOL..At that point, cost wasn't a factor due to everything else we did...it would have been another 2 feet of material at $100.00...no big deal in the scheme of things.
Since the product is made from all recycled materials we went so far as to send back the leftovers for use as "samples' they could send out again. Plasteak paid for the shipping on return and I didn't add anything to the landfill.
Even though we are sitting in storage, I love going to the boat and seeing that new floor and not the sea foam green carpet. :)
 
randerson said:
Man, I am impressed! Very nice, where do you find the time for a 1 1/2 year project?
Click to expand...

Andy,

Thanks, It was difficult to make time for this I only worked on it during winter months which was a pain going in and out the small shrink door cutting each piece.
My knees did not like the workout. It did come out nice!

Marty
 
TheWolfTC said:
I am having a new table made out of corian for the salon as well...slightly longer on each end.

We decided to stop at the forward berth door because when my little wifey gets up in the morning she likes to have her toes in something soft and not a hard surface....simply put, it made mama happy!!! (and you know what that means..:smt001 ). She was insistent upon some softness under her feet in the forward berth and the mid berth...?? Anyway, that was truly the deciding factor. Although I would add that during the templating process I must admit that it would have been a real challenge to do that all in 1 piece and get it perfect..not to mention the installation aspect of getting it laid properly in their as 1 piece. We didn't want to cut it at the door and create a seam either...so maybe I got a bit lazy and decided that carpet was going to be easier...LOL..At that point, cost wasn't a factor due to everything else we did...it would have been another 2 feet of material at $100.00...no big deal in the scheme of things.
Since the product is made from all recycled materials we went so far as to send back the leftovers for use as "samples' they could send out again. Plasteak paid for the shipping on return and I didn't add anything to the landfill.
Even though we are sitting in storage, I love going to the boat and seeing that new floor and not the sea foam green carpet. :)
Click to expand...

I understand about keeping the Admiral happy! If it was not for her I would not have this boat.

Marty
 
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