Official 370 Sundancer thread

[Chada]

I figured I would follow up on my own thread to help people in the future who might have this same issue. I did order a whole new fixture from a guy in Australia on ebay. After that I fixed my old broken mount with marine epoxy. The plastic mount was brittle and cracked but I put a large radiator hose clamp around it and got it back into a round shape and epoxied it inside and out and its stronger than new. I guess I will save the replacement light I got as a spare. The wires were stuck but did come apart after spraying them with some lubricant and working them quite a bit so they did not have to be cut. The fixture is made by Cantalupi, who are now out of business, and the fixture was called Sampei. I have uploaded pics of the epoxied mount. Its not pretty but you dont see it after installation. The reason I wanted to use the old mount if possible instead of fabricate a new one is because the lamp base slips over the plastic mount and is mounted to the plastic mount by means of two set screws that go through the fixture and then through threads in the plastic mount.

Hi all. Over the weekend we cleaned and dewinterized for the season. In the aft cabin is a gold reading light attached to the bulkhead. I barely tapped it with a rag and it snapped off the bulkhead. They mounted it with a plastic mount and it must have gotten brittle over the years as it just snapped at the two mounting screws and I barely touched it. The light is a Cantalupi. I found a guy in Australia that has a replacement. I just need the mount but could not find one anywhere. He had mounts too but wanted almost as much for the mount as the whole light. Anyway i pulled the wiring carefully out of the bulkhead and the light is connected with male female connections. I don't want to cut them but I cannot figure out how to get them apart. Is there a tab you have to press? Do they come apart at all?

 

[TN370]

If your dart 2490 still works with clear screen let me know..

It’s still in good shape. But still trying to decide if I replace with a new i40 screen and transducer. Or just replace the transducer for the 2490. Probably going to replace it all. I’ll let you know.

 

[TN370]

As someone that is 70% of the way through upgrading my 1997 vintage electronics I can share with you the following.

1.) Pick a brand. Hit West Marine and play around with them. I went with Garmin because of the user interface. I personally feel the Garmin units are the "Apple" of marine devices. Easy to use, intuitive. Simard is more prominent around my docks. Raymarine is probably the least popular for those upgrading around me. This brand talk is very much Ford vs Chevy. They are all great.

2.) Your older gear is not likely to interface with the new, digital gear.

3.) Your existing autopilot is generally regarded as "very good" and replacing it should not be taken lightly.

4.) I don't think surface mount transducers will work with our hull construction/materials?

5.) Radar with a decent sized MFD will be the most expensive part of your upgrade. I'm assuming your radome is analog and as such it will not be compatible with newer MFD's.

Faced with a similar decision to yours here's the route I took: I've installed two Garmin 7" plotters at the helm along with a Garmin VHF. They are networked together and with a Fusion stereo in the cabin. I skipped the transducer but may add one in the future. This is my "70%" upgrade. I'm leaving my autopilot as-is since it's bullet proof and for the amount I use the pilot it's not worthy of the $$$'s to switch it to Garmin...yet. And last, I'm saving my coins for a used digital Garmin radar. When I have the cash ready for the 4' array and pedestal I'll also buy a used 10"/12" plotter to go with it. Network the whole thing and be done...likely just in time to sell the boat, get a new (to me) one and start over

Still scratching my head on what to do with the electronics. I think I’ve convinced myself to stick with the raymarine C120 chart plotter, and the radar, and the DSM250 fish finder. If I do so I think I need to replace my raypilot 650 (buttons going out and hard to read screen) and replace my dart 2490 and associated transducer. And get a new transducer for the DSM250 (cant pick up depths shallower than 20 feet). Does anyone know what transducer to replace for the DSM250?
And any other thoughts are welcome on my current plan...
thanks

 

[Roch Speiser]

It’s still in good shape. But still trying to decide if I replace with a new i40 screen and transducer. Or just replace the transducer for the 2490. Probably going to replace it all. I’ll let you know.
View attachment 84567

Ok thanks. Let me know. Mine not as bright as yours it seems and my backlight is very dim. I bought a RayMarine i50 with an inhull transducer but if I can get a 2490 that works better than mine I will just return it.

 

[TN370]

So does anyone know the model numbers of the transducers?

 

[mcyvas]

Changed mine out last winter. All new panels, gauges, new toggles and switches. Red LED backlighting ,New led strip back lighting .
All good, but struggling on getting new Syncronizer Gauge to work..looking to hear from someone that may have experienced this. FARIA GAUGES.

 

[jgoedd99]

1998 7.4 MAG MPI Won’t Start (S/N 00L006006)

This year at launch I had a rough idle on stbd engine, with RPMs fluctuating 100 to 200 RPMs. It started fine, ran without shutting down, but had a rough idle. I took it for a little ride thinking maybe the problem would work itself out, it ran fine. No issues. Upon returning to dock the rough idle was still there. No stalling. There was also the intermittent hissing noise cutting in an out that could be heard at the throttle body. No other issues with engine last year or otherwise. All maintenance is current (plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, coil). No other related engine work done. Fuel is clean, filters just changed (after problem developed, not before), filters are full of fuel.

Based on reading numerous threads here and doing research, it sounded like the classic IAC issue (hiss, fluctuating RPM at idle, runs fine at speed. Also did research on best way to get to the IAC on this engine. The choices are remove exhaust elbow and riser, spark arrestor, throttle body OR remove plenum in its entirety then remove spark arrestor, throttle body. I went the latter route -remove plenum in its entirety. ). I ordered the Sierra replacement IAC (18-7632) and plenum gaskets.

No issues doing the work. Unplug 4 sensors (MAP, IAT, IAC, and TPS), remove 2 vacuum lines (1 large, 1 small), remove small drain line, disconnect throttle linkage in 2 places, remove plenum bolts and off it comes. Remove studs to get throttle body off, and there is the IAC. IAC was dirty, it looked original. Clean throttle body swing gates with carb cleaner (not that bad, just a little dirty), put it all back together with new plenum gaskets installed, and it starts right up. The instructions Sierra provided with the IAC said, run 5 seconds, shut it off, wait 10 seconds and restart. While doing this I messed up in that I only waited 1 or 2 seconds before attempting restart. Engine would never start again. It cranks, I smell fuel (at spark arrestor and behind boat), and have spark at one plug that I checked. It absolutely refuses to start.

Thinking maybe the IAC was bad out of the box, I swapped another new IAC (I was intending to do both engines, so I had another one), and even put the old IAC back in. With all 3 IACs problem is the same, it cranks but will not start. In swapping out the 3 IACs, I went through this process 3 times, making sure all sensors were plugged in, no wires or anything loose, etc. None of the 3 IACs made any difference, so I am thinking it is not the IAC at this point, but something else that I did. I suppose it could be something unrelated but that would be a heck of a coincidence. NOTE – In my eagerness to get this fixed, I did not start and run the engine before starting this work to confirm the problem still existed. The original launch date when the rough idle was observed was 2 weeks ago and boat was not run since.

I am thinking there is some kind of reset or a fuse, or something. I have read to set the IAC you “turn key on 10 seconds, then off 10 seconds”. Not sure exactly what this means in that I have 3 switches (2 in cabin that are on/off) and momentary-on-off switch at the helm). I assume it is the switch at the dash, press half way (on) then turn off? I do not have a code reader to see if the engine is throwing any codes.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank You.

 

[Chada]

I am having a generator issue. 98 370 here with original Westerbeke Generator. Low hours, not rusty, clean, looks brand new. Has always run fine. Last year I winterized it. I burn non ethanol gas which was stabilized. Beginning of season a couple weeks ago it started and ran just fine. Today I start it up and it runs for about three minutes and stops. So I went to restart it. On the electrical panel there are two switches to start it. You hold down the one on the left and then push the one on the right to engage the starter. Normally, once it starts you release both buttons and it continues to run.

So after it quit the first time I restarted it and it started fine and ran until I released the button on the left and then it stopped. I did this a few times, same thing. I waited fifteen minutes and started it again and it started normally and ran three minutes and again died. Then when I restarted it again it would again die as soon as I let off the left hand button. The button on the left says preheat but I assume thats for a diesel so I am not sure what that button does or why intermittently the generator will run only if its engaged. Has anyone else experienced this?

 

[Keith Delk jr.]

I am having a generator issue. 98 370 here with original Westerbeke Generator. Low hours, not rusty, clean, looks brand new. Has always run fine. Last year I winterized it. I burn non ethanol gas which was stabilized. Beginning of season a couple weeks ago it started and ran just fine. Today I start it up and it runs for about three minutes and stops. So I went to restart it. On the electrical panel there are two switches to start it. You hold down the one on the left and then push the one on the right to engage the starter. Normally, once it starts you release both buttons and it continues to run.

So after it quit the first time I restarted it and it started fine and ran until I released the button on the left and then it stopped. I did this a few times, same thing. I waited fifteen minutes and started it again and it started normally and ran three minutes and again died. Then when I restarted it again it would again die as soon as I let off the left hand button. The button on the left says preheat but I assume thats for a diesel so I am not sure what that button does or why intermittently the generator will run only if its engaged. Has anyone else experienced this?

Check to see if you have 5 volts on the 3 sensors. Oil pressure, water temp& exhaust temp sensors

 

[Chada]

Thanks Ill check next weekend

 

[370Dancer]

Check to see if you have 5 volts on the 3 sensors. Oil pressure, water temp& exhaust temp sensors

OK, this is loose, from memory, but I can provide the schematics and troubleshooting guide to you if you don't have them. The "preheat" switch is technically more correct as the bypass/run switch. It's job is to bypass the low oil pressure shutdown switch when first starting the engine. You hold it for a few seconds while oil pressure builds up. There are 2 other sensors as mentioned in the same loop, in series. That means if any one of the sensors opens, then you lose the positive voltage, which shuts off the fuel solenoid, fuel pump, and ignition feed, killing the engine. Since it appears you can start cold, I would look at the exhaust and water temp sensors first. An easy way to test is to get to the condition where it's shutting right down when you release the bypass switch, then clip a jumper wire over the terminals of the sensor. Exhaust is on the side of the manifold elbow, and the easiest to get to. Put your jumper on, and then restart right there at the generator. If you can release the button, and it keeps running, take the lead off and see if it dies. If so, you have found at least one culprit. checking the water temp switch is the same technique. It would also help to have someone looking at the exhaust port to make sure you are moving water.
Yesterday, I lost water flow through the intake while at anchor, because this time of year, gobs of bay grass float to the surface and out with the tide. So the gen exhaust got real loud (no water flow) and I shut it down immediately. reached under the boat and pulled a handful of bay "snot" from the intake thru hull. Unfortunately, with these gensets, mounted as they are, they don't do a good job of self priming. So restarting the generator gave me more loud exhaust, and the beginnings of impeller burn. I had people in the cockpit, and the engine room was 180 degrees, so I just left it alone.
Now I'm trying to think up a way to get the pump re-primed should it lose prime like yesterday. All you have to do is loosen the outlet hose from the pump for a few seconds to get the flow going again. Am I thinking of a remotely controlled y valve? Perhaps............

 

[jgoedd99]

1998 7.4 MAG MPI Won’t Start (S/N 00L006006)

This year at launch I had a rough idle on stbd engine, with RPMs fluctuating 100 to 200 RPMs. It started fine, ran without shutting down, but had a rough idle. I took it for a little ride thinking maybe the problem would work itself out, it ran fine. No issues. Upon returning to dock the rough idle was still there. No stalling. There was also the intermittent hissing noise cutting in an out that could be heard at the throttle body. No other issues with engine last year or otherwise. All maintenance is current (plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, coil). No other related engine work done. Fuel is clean, filters just changed (after problem developed, not before), filters are full of fuel.

Based on reading numerous threads here and doing research, it sounded like the classic IAC issue (hiss, fluctuating RPM at idle, runs fine at speed. Also did research on best way to get to the IAC on this engine. The choices are remove exhaust elbow and riser, spark arrestor, throttle body OR remove plenum in its entirety then remove spark arrestor, throttle body. I went the latter route -remove plenum in its entirety. ). I ordered the Sierra replacement IAC (18-7632) and plenum gaskets.

No issues doing the work. Unplug 4 sensors (MAP, IAT, IAC, and TPS), remove 2 vacuum lines (1 large, 1 small), remove small drain line, disconnect throttle linkage in 2 places, remove plenum bolts and off it comes. Remove studs to get throttle body off, and there is the IAC. IAC was dirty, it looked original. Clean throttle body swing gates with carb cleaner (not that bad, just a little dirty), put it all back together with new plenum gaskets installed, and it starts right up. The instructions Sierra provided with the IAC said, run 5 seconds, shut it off, wait 10 seconds and restart. While doing this I messed up in that I only waited 1 or 2 seconds before attempting restart. Engine would never start again. It cranks, I smell fuel (at spark arrestor and behind boat), and have spark at one plug that I checked. It absolutely refuses to start.

Thinking maybe the IAC was bad out of the box, I swapped another new IAC (I was intending to do both engines, so I had another one), and even put the old IAC back in. With all 3 IACs problem is the same, it cranks but will not start. In swapping out the 3 IACs, I went through this process 3 times, making sure all sensors were plugged in, no wires or anything loose, etc. None of the 3 IACs made any difference, so I am thinking it is not the IAC at this point, but something else that I did. I suppose it could be something unrelated but that would be a heck of a coincidence. NOTE – In my eagerness to get this fixed, I did not start and run the engine before starting this work to confirm the problem still existed. The original launch date when the rough idle was observed was 2 weeks ago and boat was not run since.

I am thinking there is some kind of reset or a fuse, or something. I have read to set the IAC you “turn key on 10 seconds, then off 10 seconds”. Not sure exactly what this means in that I have 3 switches (2 in cabin that are on/off) and momentary-on-off switch at the helm). I assume it is the switch at the dash, press half way (on) then turn off? I do not have a code reader to see if the engine is throwing any codes.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank You.

UPDATE - Engine is running again. Not sure what exactly occurred, but here's what i did. Went down to boat the next day, and only plan i could come up with was to check the 3 fuses located at the ECM. Each fuse tested good. At that point, i turned two ignition switches in cabin on, and cycled start switch at the helm ON then OFF 3 times (not the start position, just ON-OFF) waiting 10 seconds each time. At that point the engine started as it normally does. So i am unsure if cycling the ignition switch did anything but it starts.

With the engine running the idle RPM is still bouncing (600 to 800 or so RPM). Since i had gone back to the original IAC i put the new IAC back in. Cycled ignition switch ON - OFF 3 times, and again it starts. Rough idle is still there though. Sierra instructions say to run engine 5 seconds turn off for 10 seconds to allow IAC to adjust itself, repeat as necessary. I did that a couple times and the rough idle is getting better but is still ocurring, less frequently though.

Not necessarily declaring victory, the engine is running, but it may be a fuel injection issue. Will monitor situation but will need a code reader to do any further diagnosis. Any suggestions for a code reader without breaking the bank? Service Manual 23 says it is a Quicksilver Scan
Tool 91-823686A2.

Thanks for any input.

 

[Chada]

Thanks for the generator info that is a ton of leads for me to follow I sincerely appreciate both posts.

 

[370Dancer]

UPDATE - Will monitor situation but will need a code reader to do any further diagnosis. Any suggestions for a code reader without breaking the bank? Service Manual 23 says it is a Quicksilver Scan
Tool 91-823686A2.

Thanks for any input.

I was able to rent a Rinda for a week for $75 on Ebay from a guy outside of Orlando. $650 deposit, which gets refunded when you return the unit. I think he paid shipping at least one way if not both. That was a GREAT help when I was trying to dial in my new to me but still 18 year old repower engines.

 

[370Dancer]

BTW, I finally found a parts explosion of the 7.0BCG with parts identification, and of course retail pricing.
Where? Westerbeke.com of course! I looked everywhere for a marineengine.com kind of site, and it wound up being the manufacturer (or should I say assembler). They even slip and give some sizing data. Like, who knew the outlet hose from the Johnson pump to the heat exchanger is 7/8"? (1" on the intake)
https://www.westerbeke.com/Category/7.0BCG/5399ADA2DAF73A26740BF62A#viewparts

 

[jgoedd99]

I was able to rent a Rinda for a week for $75 on Ebay from a guy outside of Orlando. $650 deposit, which gets refunded when you return the unit. I think he paid shipping at least one way if not both. That was a GREAT help when I was trying to dial in my new to me but still 18 year old repower engines.

Thanks 370 Dancer. i went with the Rinda 94008 Code reader. It will read codes which hopefully is enough information.

 

[Chada]

Got got down to the boat this afternoon and started looking at the generator. Turns out that the overheat sensor was acting properly because what was happening was the thermostat is stuck in the closed position then after it runs for a few minutes it overheats and turns itself off. Got to figure out how to get the thermostat housing off and replace it.

 

[370Dancer]

Pretty sure the distributor cap has to get out of the way. Hopefully not the whole distro.
Haven't done mine. Tip. I raise the center hatch, pull the Starboard hatch, and lay it across the center opening. Then, I lay down on it, and work on the generator. Better than crouching in the space between the gas tank and the genset.

 

[MrLean]

Looking at buying a 1995-98 370, but also looking at newer 380s, 360s and 340s.

Would anyone be willing to share what they paid for their boat and when, including basic stats like fresh/salt water, hours etc?

Trying to figure out depreciation expectation for the next 3-5 years of ownership. Thanks!

 

[Chada]

Anyone messed with the latch on the main sliding hatch? Mine locks with a key from the outside but it will not lock from the inside. There is a sliding lever on the latch mechanism inside to lock it but mine will not move. It's stuck in the unlocked position. I searched this thread every way I could think of but amazingly could not find any posts.