Official 370 Sundancer thread

Ok gang. It's nearly 2018. Time to revisit the entertainment systems.
My current setup is this:
Music:
My system is broken into 3 physical "zones", but always feeding from the same input source.
Boss Single DIN head unit with 4x40w amp built in. am/fm/cd/aux in/aux out
The Boss internal amp feeds the forward stateroom and salon speakers (cabin)
The Boss aux out feeds parallel amps under the sofa (factory is 1 amp. I added another) they are independently powered with switches beside the sofa.
The factory amp feeds the cockpit sub-woofer and 4 speakers
The second amp feeds a pair of Bose outdoor speakers mounted in the aft storage compartment facing the stern
A Boss wired remote is located at the helm, and a second remote is located in the aft storage compartment
XM stand alone receiver with aux output
Benefits:
I can balance the levels between the cabin and the cockpit speakers
I can switch the cockpit/aft off completely by powering down the amps while retaining music below.
I can hear the music while floating behind the boat at anchor with the aft storage locker open
I can control the volume and some other functions from the aft swim platform and helm
The single Aux input of the Boss head unit, when tied to the theater system, allows TV audio in the cockpit
Drawbacks:
No Bluetooth built in
No dynamic balance between the cockpit speakers and the aft facing speakers
Single Aux input has to be manually plugged between inputs when changing sources
I have more potential inputs than the unit provides for

Salon Theater:
27" 1080P HD LCD TV in the salon w/ ATSC tuner
22" 1080P HD LCD TV in the front stateroom w/ ATSC tuner
Logitech powered Surround Sound system with powered sub, and 5 satellite speakers
Creative Labs Extigy head unit that accepts 2 aux inputs, 1 digital audio coax, and 1 optic input. Decodes to 5.1
Apple TV streamer for iphone casting thru TV
Roku Streamer for internet casting thru TV (also video out to 10" chartplotter video input)
Benefits:
Low cost well executed surround system in the salon
27" max size on space where 17"original equipment was housed
Drawbacks:
All streamers go through the salon TV only, meaning through salon only without manual plugging
Extigy does not switch inputs. Whatever is playing comes through the salon surround system
Stateroom TV is isolated from any input but ATSC tuner
Extigy has no aux out for feeding the cockpit system (can't get streaming output to the cockpit/aft zones)

Primary Use Cases:
music when cruising
music when anchored/berthed
TV when anchored/berthed
TV across the system during football games w/ potential cockpit video
Web surfing, email, internet content displayed in salon

Missing features:
dynamic independent volume control between front cockpit and rear cockpit speakers
- cockpit guests don't want speakers blaring in their ears while helm could use more volume
Bow mounted speakers facing aft for bow guests, and potentially the helm
Control from helm of zone volumes, and source inputs
Built in bluetooth as audio source
Connectivity to Stateroom TV/monitor
Centralized internet/LAN for vessel
Integration with Vessel computer other than 15 pin VGA from laptop to Salon monitor

Recent Additions but not implemented:
8" Android Tablet as a full time T-Mobile hot spot for the vessel and entertainment source, which will likely replace vessel computer.

 

Quite a setup you have there. My system is similar but with much less emphasis on video. I concentrate on audio and use the video only to feed my news habit.. I’m an all Apple guy so the Apple TV is used for access to iTunes. I have a first gen Fusion head unit connected to the factory amp and just replaced all my cockpit speakers again, only this time with Fusion speakers. I also added a BlueTooth unit to the Fusion and spent most of the past summer steaming audio from my iPad or iPhone.

Right now, I’m only looking to boost my Wi-Fi reception from the marina Wi-Fi mesh Network so I can lay off tethering to my iPhone for good reception.

Gene

 

I have lots of mesh experience
Pm me if you want to talk about it

 

Has anyone else seen a stern thruster setup like this? I just bought this boat a few weeks ago and am curious how well this will work..

 

Is that a twin stern thruster setup?

Never seen that before. Who makes it?

 

They are two of those 24V minn kota engine mounted trolling motors. They are both mounted in the same direction since they can can be run in forward or reverse.

 

Wow a home brew setup! Interesting. You'll have to let us know how well it works. Stern thruster on the cheap.

I wouldn't think you would need that honestly with the twin screw, but curious nonetheless.

 

Been chasing a rare leak in the V berth for quite a while, and I think I am on the path to closure on it.
This is the one where the bolster gets wet (underneath), and runs along the bolster, in my case to the cabinetry/closet on the port side. from there, it was dripping down the furniture and coming out the bottom drawer of the 2 steps on the port side.
I removed the bolster this week, and discovered that the water is coming between the port side shelf that has a fixed portlight, and the vinyl covering. At first I thought it must be coming through the portlight frame, but now I am leaning towards the stanchion mount that is directly above the portlight on deck. Referring to the pictures in this link to dropbox:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/8iirxqho0j0aeo6/AABdMzVInSlewUuEg6MHhazca?dl=0
there is a "box" above the portlight which hides the rail and mounting hardware. it is between the TV cabinet, and the speaker cabinet. I cannot find any of the usual Sea Ray hidden screws, or something from the TV cabinet side that is attaching it to the headliner. I also see no way into the speaker enclosure. Has anyone gotten into this area of their interior to expose the stanchion mounting nuts?
TIA for any help you can provide. In case the dropbox link gets blocked, I'll try to upload pics of the interior pieces in question.

 

Sorry I did not see your post sooner. I will get back to you soon. currently on the hard, but its too damned cold to visit the boat yard. next week or so should warm a bit.

 

Answering my own question for someone in the future who needs this.
The speaker is easy. It's just a pressed in cloth covered wooden ring. Pry it out, and remove the speaker. Won't get you anywhere with the stanchion though, or the rectangular cover.
The rectangular cover has 2 hidden screws on each side around the center of the box. These were so hard to get to, that I just pulled the screw heads through the wood frame. Easy enough to repair, and I will be mounting these like they should have originally, using automotive "Christmas Trees" like what you find in your car door panel.
Removing that revealed the through bolts of the stanchion, and the entire area was wet with condensate, probably from years of being wet. Removed the thru bolts and found very little if any bedding compound on the threads or under the plate. Fortunately, that is just fiberglass, so no wood to rot out. As the temps improve, I'll try to document with pics as I put this back together.

 

helm electronics update.
Full engine monitoring now (including an app on IoS that shows a lot more)
Starting the move to N2K, but only as stuff breaks, or I find a deal.

 

Hey 370Dancer +1 on the FoxMarine monitors. I install two also and now get all the engine data on my Garmin and iPad. The bad news - now I know what the actual fuel burn is - lol.

 

Realize this is an old post but do you still have the carpet by chance? PM me if you do.

 

I'm looking at a used '98 Sundancer 370, and I noticed all of this blue-green coloring on a number of the fittings in the engine compartment. Is this corrosion on all of these items? This is a saltwater boat and I'm wondering whether it was submerged at some point. Obviously I would have it surveyed, but I don't want to spend the money on the survey if everything is this corroded.

UPDATE: I had the surveyor do an engine oil analysis before performing the full survey. The analysis found sea water in the engines, as well as significantly high iron and copper measurements in the oil. Not sure whether the water came from the outside or the inside, but walked away from the deal.

Any insight?

 

Bronze/Brass/Copper will patina that way when exposed to sea water. It's called Verdigris and it's normal. Take some muriatic acid and a stiff brush and it will come off. Neutralize with some baking soda and it will be as good as new.

 

I did it this summer, and I dont have any pictures I could walk you through the process if you would like. Here are some of the details and links that I have off hand.

Door Hardware (Truck ,Trains, Tracks) 06-22-17 -$226

https://www.boatoutfitters.com/hardware/sliding-door-hardware

I made a decision to keep the lower train, and some of the trucks, and made it so it had 3 trucks on the lower. It was not hard, took a few hours. Did it myself.

 

I just purchased a 94 370 Dancer and am new to the site. The water system worked properly when the boat was surveyed in the fall. I drained the fresh water tank and opened the faucets to winterize. I just refilled the tank last weekend and am not getting any water. The fresh water pump is "working" but will not build pressure or pump water. I have tried closing the fixtures and opening them with no luck. Any suggestions for the new 370 owner?

 

Its possible the pickup tube became disconnected from inside the tank!

 

I saw your post on the clarion removal. I have the same setup as you and want to just replace the head unit, don't want to do any cutting or heavy rewiring. I found some removal keys to fit the chassis that work. It comes out about a 1/3 of the way and stops, seems to be hung up on something. Did you have trouble getting it out? I'm afraid to pull too hard and tear up some wiring. I can't see how to get behind the wall, it all seems sealed up good. Any insight would be helpful, thanks!!

 

sent you info privately. Feel free to repost it here.