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Discussion in 'Sport Yachts/Yachts' started by Sea Ray Mark, Oct 22, 2008.
I think you need 18" rather than 19".
I'd like to do the same thing but not sure about our windlass. If you have the same one that came on my 95 the brand is Best. But that hasn't really told me of chain will go through it. Here's the rode I'd like to get if I could find out:
Is there anyone ho can help me ?.?
I believe the Sea Ray part number you need is 129684. The below was posted by Frank W from another post looking for wiper motors.
Try AM Equipment. They are an OEM source for Sea Ray, but I don't know if they provided the motor you need. You can research them here:
duckee, from 2014...can you repost the 2 exhaust pics? the links above won't work.
Looking at a 1992 and wondering which one good or bad, thank you.
I E maild sea ray corp.
And got this back
Here is the correct # for the w/s actuator. It can be ordered from a sea ray dealer
I have two cummins 330hp Diamond marine year modell 2003. Question
Uppgrade to 370hp what do i have to do. Bigger turbo? Tuning fuelpump?
Hope my english is deccent
Live in Sweden
OEM spec is 18x21 3 blade! If you go to 4 blade you need to downsize to 18x20! I did the same this season, went to a 18x20 Nibral 4 blade! i think i like the 3 blade better, felt like i was getting more speed at the same RPM!
I know but I can these for 500.00
19" x 19 a pair I just wonder if 19" will fit
It's important to make sure they are cupped blades. I'm finding out the hard way right now. Brand new 18x21s on and I've lost all speed. I'm topping out at 16 mph wide open. Swapping back to my old ones next week after there repaired and then sending back the new ones to have them cupped. Don't make the same mistake! The spec is 18x21 3BC. The 3BC means 3 blade CUPPED apparently...
On another note, does anyone know how to adjust the travel distance on the windshield wiper motors? I've got one that's stopping at the right spot when it gets to the middle window, but it's traveling way past the window on the outside and hitting the fiberglass. Any ideas on how to adjust?
Hope anyone effected by the hurricanes is well and didn't suffer any damage. I'm just getting back to the forum after being out of the country for over a month and came back just before Irma came visiting here in Clearwater. Where it bad it could have been much, much worse. My sympathies to all who were hurt.
Have couple of question, one major & one minor.
a. For some reason both aft bilge pumps have ceased to work after Irma. I've active the manual switch on the dash and got nothing and cleared what little debris I can see since there's quite of bit of water up to and just over the base of the high water float switch. In fact I see lower float switch is all the way up. The fuse panel on the bulkhead doesn't show the red knob being tripped and the batteries are ok as the engines kick over right away. Before I go sloshing around in the tight space back there I could use some advise. My manual says there's supposed to be breaker on the DC panel but there isn't one. Is there an inline bilge pump fuse somewhere that may have blown or tripped?
b. Other minor question Has this Official 370 forum format changed? The last time I was on it back in Jul or Aug there were well over 200 pages showing but now only 135 plus the layout is different. Hate when that happens.
I have a 96 370 Sun Dancer and the frig is about shot. I know someone has replaced theirs at some time. With this many messages I don't know how to search for this topic. So If you replaced yours please tell me what one you got and how difficult it was to do.
Also I am looking at doing the Great Loop in my boat and want to put in additional frig. The Ice maker is gone so that would be a great place to put one. If you have done that Let me know what one you used and if it was AC/DC or not.
I am also going to modify the Port seating to table top. Going to remove the Seat and make a table for cooking and or entertaining. Any thoughts on that?
I would also like to put in a freezer of some kind. any suggestions on where I would put it?
Thanks everyone for your amazing responses.
Been a while for me on the forum. It does look different. I was on the hard for the storm, but only a couple of feet above sea level. Glad it went East, or we would have looked a lot like the keys or worse.
From memory as I am 1000 miles away right now, I believe the breakers for the bilge pumps are on a black panel in the engine room down and to port of the battery charger. Check that first. If they are ok, then I'd look at the wiring bundle near the offending bilge pumps, on the Starboard stringer of the center bilge. Looked to me like the low water bilge pump and the high water bilge pump were wired totally separately. Might both be tied to the same breaker though. Also another bilge pump under the step, in the bilge where the depth finder transducer is. Mine is inop right now, so I'm not sure whether it's tied to the aft or forward bilge switch.
Something like this.....
ok, re-read yours, and you are in the right place. Next would be to look for voltage at the wiring bundle near the pumps. one is constant and the other is switched at the helm. When neither the switch or the float switch work, I would start with ground.
Spec for a 1998 (look on 370sundancer.com front page, I provided Gene with the specification sheet and drawing)
MERC 7.4L MPI: T-380
TRANSMISSION/GEAR: BW VELVET 5000
SHAFT (DIAxLENGTH): 1.5” x 73.19” (2)
PROP SIZE (DIAxPITCH): 18 x 22 3BC BRONZE (C=CUPPED, S=STRAIGHT)
GEAR REDUCTION RATIO: 2.00:1
Yes we have.
For the fridge, assuming it's original, you remove it from the cabinet (trim ring screws, pull it out, unplug it)
Remove the door of the fridge, and anything extruding from the back that you can (memory here, I think the ac/dc converter). Turn sideways, and out the sliding door.
I am always on ac power, so I just went and got an under counter fridge from big box, and made a trim panel to fill the gaps in the hole. Looks great, works great, and is inexpensive to replace. (pic attached) If you insist on having ac/dc operation, buy a small inverter from Harbor Freight, and hook that up to the DC 12v wires you just disconnected from the old fridge, plug the fridge in, and always run it off of 12v power. I did that on a previous boat.
The cockpit ice maker is a bit more challenging. The Uline SP-18 that is original equipment has the height of a small dorm fridge, and double the depth. At one point I considered removing it, and routing out the cabinet to put an under counter out there as well. I found that I needed the ice maker more, so I have continued to repair/replace mine with Uline SP18 components. If you are going to remove the seat anyways, you may be able to install a fridge and cut it into the cabinet, and put a serving countertop on it. The door opening space between that and the helm seat is pretty limited. Take that into consideration when getting something for out there. Also keep in mind you may not always be in calm waters.
A chest freezer would probably require giving up some other space like your cockpit seating on the port side. I have seen fishing boats deep in the Exumas, which buy a cheap top loading freezer, keep it in their cockpit for the summer, and then throw it away when they get back to the states. Admittedly, their cockpits are much larger than ours.
We tend to use a large cooler on the dive platform for multi day trips for cold items, ice and drinks, and stop the ice maker, and use it as a freezer for frozen items. If your SP18 still gets cold, but just doesn't make ice, that may be your freezer solution.