Official 370 Sundancer thread

RubberDuckeeToo2 said:
This thread is already one of the most frequented on Club Sea Ray and there is a wealth of information here. I'd bet anything that our traffic is not just from 370 DA owners, but others looking to step up and maybe a few who are looking to move down a bit.

i'd keep things here and have our '95 to '99 370 owners have one place to go for info. I'll also admit to being a bit selfish, as I get many of my ideas to update 370sundancer.com from here. I know I haven't updated the site in a while, but with two main threads to follow, I'd have even more work!

Gene[/QUOTE


Agreed +1 to Gene's comments - one place to go to for 370DA '95 - '99
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370Dancer said:
Ok, now I'm thinking what we need to do is move this discussion to a new "370" oriented thread, entitled "370 Sundancer Refit" thread, focusing on things you have done to refresh your 370 specifically, that others could do as well. That could grow into a list of projects for all of us, and the tribal knowledge captured will be invaluable to those who are contemplating the refits.
Or, does that defeat the purpose of this one, which is all things 370 DA?
Show of hands?
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I like this idea. Clicking on a second thread, solely for retrofits and upgrades would be nice versus trying to find stuff in a 245 plus page thread.
 
Currently looking at 2 different 1992 370 Sundancers. Is there anything special I should be looking for in this particular Yr/model.
This will be my first cruiser and I am suffering from a bit of paralysis from analysis.
Thanks, Shawn
 
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Could use some immediate help guys & gals.

All of my 110V outlets have ceased to work suddenly from one day to the next. It was working fine the day before when I was charging a battery and yesterday when my mechanic changing out the manifolds had a fan going. Came on the boat today and needed some 11 power but no power to any of the outlets although the A/C is working and the outlet breaker is "on" and was NOT tripped.

The only other time I had this issue was when I purchased the boat and found the bathroom outlet was shorted. I've inspected all the outlets I can readily see (bathroom, galley, salon and cockpit by the sink) and they look OK, not obvious blackened areas. TVs, stereo and my 110V frig appear dead. None of the outlets I can see have any kind of a reset button (ground fault reset). The fact that my outlet breaker was not tripped is a mystery since if something was overloaded or blown it should have tripped. But I have not yet pulled the panel to see if the breaker might be bad. There was a lot of lightning and rain in the area the other night but we've weathered those for years plus all other 110 & 12 V stuff is working.

Q: Is there some other hidden outlet w/ a GFS somewhere (vacuum ?) I haven't looked at or any kind of fuse or ground fault switch in the engine compartment that my mechanic might have tripped accidentally? :-(

Would appreciate any advice of suggested tests to run before I start dismantling all outlets and pulling TVs and the frig. :)
 
Sounds like a gfi issue but I don't remember we're all of the outlets are. Haven't had my 37DA for a number of years. I do remember some where pretty well hidden.
 
Sea Ray Mark said:
Sounds like a gfi issue but I don't remember we're all of the outlets are. Haven't had my 37DA for a number of years. I do remember some where pretty well hidden.
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Outlets (in clockwise order) are in the cockpit next to the bar sink, behind the ice maker/fridge in the cockpit, behind the fridge in the galley, behind the coffee maker, above the galley counter, in the head above the head itself, forward stateroom behind the TV, on the starboard side next to closet, behind the TV in the salon, below that under the settee for the vacuum, next the aft closet, and on the other side of the aft closet in the mid-cabin. (I think that's all of them.)

Given the circumstances, I would start with the one below the bar sink in the cockpit. Your workman may have tugged on something there that broke the outlet and shorted the circuit.

Gene
 
RubberDuckeeToo2 said:
Outlets (in clockwise order) are in the cockpit next to the bar sink, behind the ice maker/fridge in the cockpit, behind the fridge in the galley, behind the coffee maker, above the galley counter, in the head above the head itself, forward stateroom behind the TV, on the starboard side next to closet, behind the TV in the salon, below that under the settee for the vacuum, next the aft closet, and on the other side of the aft closet in the mid-cabin. (I think that's all of them.)

Given the circumstances, I would start with the one below the bar sink in the cockpit. Your workman may have tugged on something there that broke the outlet and shorted the circuit.

Gene
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I'd start even further back.
Looking at your A/C panel, do you have a voltage reading on the meter for line 1? I've had a shore power cord come loose before and stop power on 1 leg. also try switching shore pugs since your A/C works.
Assuming you do have a reading, how are you checking for power? voltmeter? plugging in a lamp?
two gfi outlets for wet areas the one under the head cabinet is notorious for rusting out if in salt water. might look ok, but removing it will show the back side.
Le us know what you find
 
RubberDuckeeToo2 said:
Outlets (in clockwise order) are in the cockpit next to the bar sink, behind the ice maker/fridge in the cockpit, behind the fridge in the galley, behind the coffee maker, above the galley counter, in the head above the head itself, forward stateroom behind the TV, on the starboard side next to closet, behind the TV in the salon, below that under the settee for the vacuum, next the aft closet, and on the other side of the aft closet in the mid-cabin. (I think that's all of them.)

Given the circumstances, I would start with the one below the bar sink in the cockpit. Your workman may have tugged on something there that broke the outlet and shorted the circuit.

Gene
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Thanks Gene, Dancer, et al.

Sure enough. found the GF switch in the head outlet under the medicine cabinet. Wasn't blown, just tripped for some reason, maybe storms. That was the same one that was completely shorted out when I first bought the boat but I didn't remember or couldn't easily see the integrated GFS. I was looking for a red or yellow GFS button. Anyway, shortly after I wrote my plea I went back to the boat to empty the defrosting frig, looked around more carefully and again checked that head outlet more closely and found the reset button and indicator light.

Knew were most of the outlets were, except one, but didn't look forward to pulling the TVs, burners, frig, etc. Sure wish they'd mounted all the outlets where one had easy access like the front side of the small aft closet. Might think about remounting that outlet in the head.

Again, thanks much and coming to the rescue quickly.

Phil
 
I am systematically chasing a rain leak that is coming from somewhere up the port side, forward (I think) of the steps/drawers in the forward stateroom. The water pools eventually under the bottom drawer, and then seeps into the floor carpet there. It's definitely coming between the hull and inner liner.
It has to be a real gully washer for this to occur, and it's August, so that's nearly every day now. I have re-caulked the rub rail with no change, so next it's look at re-bedding horizontal items like the water fill, and footswitches for the windless.
I'll try to get some pics later today when it pours again.
 
JackH said:
Replaced the upper door track on our 95 370 a couple weeks ago. Ordered a replacement aluminum tracks and trucks online. On our boat the track is 48" long. The basic steps were:
1) Cut/remove the sealer around the panel that forms the door pocket in the cockpit.
2) Remove 4 screws at the bottom of the panel
3) Remove 4 screws at the top of the panel inside the cabin. They are accessible through the removable light/speaker cover over the galley.
4) Remove panel. Clean up dead stink bug carcasses inside. :)
5) Remove door from bottom track assembly and the trucks at the top.
6) Slide trucks out of old track and remove screws that hold the track in place.
7) Use the old track as a drill template to line up the screw holes. I just taped the two tracks together back to back.
8) Re-assemble in reverse order.

Wish I had done this a couple seasons ago. It's so nice to have a smooth operating door.

Jack
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This is perfect timing as I just bought a 95 370 this week that has a damaged upper track. Where did you buy the aluminum track? I found some generic kits at fpmarine but I need to look hard and measure the OEM to make sure it's the correct size.
 
I have read through this entire forum, and have not see anything on how to remove the microwave. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the microwave out?
 
I am not on the boat right now
dromstadt said:
I have read through this entire forum, and have not see anything on how to remove the microwave. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the microwave out?
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I am not on the boat right now, but you will notice there is a piece under the front of the microwave that is separate from the cabinet. I would look under the edge of the cabinet for screws that hold it in. undo those, and you will probably have something that slides out of the cavity with the microwave attached. I believe you are the first person on this site to remove the microwave from a 370.
I can check this weekend for sure as we will be "camping out" at some marina or yacht club.
 
370Dancer said:
I am not on the boat right now

I am not on the boat right now, but you will notice there is a piece under the front of the microwave that is separate from the cabinet. I would look under the edge of the cabinet for screws that hold it in. undo those, and you will probably have something that slides out of the cavity with the microwave attached. I believe you are the first person on this site to remove the microwave from a 370.
I can check this weekend for sure as we will be "camping out" at some marina or yacht club.
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Dancer's correct. I have removed the microwave to chase down what I thought was a leak. There are two screws that you can feel underneath the microwave just in front of the small sliding doors to the lower cabinet. Take those out and the microwave slides right out. Then you unplug It from the outlet (one that I forgot about in a prior post)and the unit is free. I think the later boats (97-98) boats have that small filler piece because the microwave is smaller than the one in earlier boats.

Gene
 
This is my first post on CS so if I'm doing this wrong just let me know. We have a 1997 370 and have owned it for 9 years, absolutely love the boat! We have recently considered making a change or keeping and one of the things we would like to add down the road is a washer/ dryer combo. Has anyone done this? If so, please point me in the right direction for more info. Thanks in advance for your help!

Joel
 
Looking to order some King Board or other brand of plastic to cover the holes left behind from removing some old electrics (original Raytheon NAV398 and Raychart 600). The prior owner did a nice job making a piece to refit the UHF radio. Whatever he used does a great job to match the fiberglass color. I recently ordered a piece of "white" pvc to see how it would look. It's too white and too shiny. Any guesses on what the previous owner used or other suggestions to better match?
 
TN370 said:
Looking to order some King Board or other brand of plastic to cover the holes left behind from removing some old electrics (original Raytheon NAV398 and Raychart 600). The prior owner did a nice job making a piece to refit the UHF radio. Whatever he used does a great job to match the fiberglass color. I recently ordered a piece of "white" pvc to see how it would look. It's too white and too shiny. Any guesses on what the previous owner used or other suggestions to better match?
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And I should mention that I would like to get something that's 1/4" or 1/8". I found Tap Plastics where you can order specific size of King Starboard, but it seems you can only get 1/2 or thicker. They have color options of Seafoam and Sanshade. Anyone had experience with either of those matching? But where to find it thinner than 1/2"? TIA
 
TN370 said:
And I should mention that I would like to get something that's 1/4" or 1/8". I found Tap Plastics where you can order specific size of King Starboard, but it seems you can only get 1/2 or thicker. They have color options of Seafoam and Sanshade. Anyone had experience with either of those matching? But where to find it thinner than 1/2"? TIA
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Boat Outfitters has a very large selection of King Starboard. If you have the mocha dashboard instead of the white, Starboard used to make a "coffee" color that was very close, but they do not make it now.

On the other hand, you can get dash panels fitted for your boat from Founder Pounder.

Gene
 
JeremyVT said:
This is perfect timing as I just bought a 95 370 this week that has a damaged upper track. Where did you buy the aluminum track? I found some generic kits at fpmarine but I need to look hard and measure the OEM to make sure it's the correct size.
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Got the upper track and trucks at fpmarine. Product Code: DOOR-TRACK-TOP-ALUM-BLACK. Hope that helps.
 
Has anybody replaced the cabinet handles in the cockpit for under the sink, and the ice maker?
3-3/4" centers. Just wondering what you used, and where you sourced it if you have changed them out.
 
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