Official 330 Sundancer Thread

You can take the wiper blade off and go to any automotive parts store. I had to talk to the guy behind the counter to get a blade that would work (O’Rielly’s Auto Parts) . I did have to cut them to the correct length.
 
Thanks Todd

Here you go:

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1375154512.503047.jpg

This is the replacement arm I bought too

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1375154528.283626.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Todd
 
I have used the 16 inch wiper blades from auto stores, but they are hard to find these days as most only have blades with arms
 
UPDATE on progress with the new Dash Panels

We were blessed with a warm sunny weekend and I made some progress on the dash panels. I only managed to install the one lower one. It was a slow tedious process, one at a time, pull wires, remove switch and install in new panel and connect wires. As I went across it got tighter in space but it worked out in the end. Here is a before, during and after pictures.

They look great, although mine did not fit perfectly as you will see in the photo. The upper left and right at the top is too high by about 1/8in. That is why in the picture I only installed the centre screws. I think I can use a palm sander to carefully blend it down so it will fit nicely, but I did not bring it to the boat. Unfortunately by installing the way I did, I only found out at the end. I think the top one has the same issue. I can try fitting that one easier because the gauges don't sit out as far as the switches do on the lower one. Its a real nuisance but what can I do at this stage. It will be great once they are done.

Before:
DSCN4558.jpg


During:
DSCN4560.jpg


After:

DSCN4564.jpg

DSCN4565.jpg


updated to show the top panel that I finally did this week. Some before and after shots.

DSCN4567.jpg

7ed6c7402d4351e308ae762433993b2f.jpg

5fbd5f6ae73c18e62072d3b4a233895d.jpg
 
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Does anyone know the hose size of the sea water intakes into the strainer? 1995 330DA 7.4s
 
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Creekwood,

What did you do with the fasteners? It looks as if you used a black plastic Cap? Looks Clean.

I have used plastic caps in the past from Lowes to clean up some of the screws located in the cabin (Tan in color), are these the same concept.

The cap worked like a washer and once the screw was installed the cap snapped into place.
 
Creekwood,

What did you do with the fasteners? It looks as if you used a black plastic Cap? Looks Clean.

I have used plastic caps in the past from Lowes to clean up some of the screws located in the cabin (Tan in color), are these the same concept.

The cap worked like a washer and once the screw was installed the cap snapped into place.

The panels come with the black painted stainless screws but I didn't think it was as finished a look as with the caps. I bought the caps and the corresponding nylon washers that you put the screws through from Home Depot. They had black, brown and white but I decided to go with black to match the black switches.
 
Creekwood

Very nice panels

I too replaced my panels in 2008 as mine were badly faded and I had some custom made to reflect the re-power I did as well (Gas to Diesel) and these were made from Laser cut Aluminium, and lacquer coated, the switches are Legend type with LED backlighting on the Legend and red led lit bar when selected making it very easy to see what switch you are selecting at night and easy to see those selected onStarter panel.jpg.


Some Pictures for you to see

Picture 012.jpgP1030620.jpgThompson Cruise 117.jpg
 
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Hello everyone, I just recently purchased a '95 330 that needs a bit of TLC. Slowly but surely making progress. The fold out step to exit the boat on the port side is broken. Just the hinge bolt snapped but I forgot to bring it with me once I left the boat and was hoping someone on here my know the size bolt that it would take so I dont have to make an extra trip back up to get it. Thank you in advance
 
Hello All, I have been trying to buy a 96-99 330 Sundancer. I am looking at boats in the Great lakes area. I have inspected many boats and find all have had issues with the top deck delamination. Especially near the windshield. Has anyone had this repaired ? I am starting to feel that no matter which boat I buy, I will have to do some fiberglass work this fall. Any input will be greatly appreciated.
 
Hello All, I have been trying to buy a 96-99 330 Sundancer. I am looking at boats in the Great lakes area. I have inspected many boats and find all have had issues with the top deck delamination. Especially near the windshield. Has anyone had this repaired ? I am starting to feel that no matter which boat I buy, I will have to do some fiberglass work this fall. Any input will be greatly appreciated.

I don't have any delamination that I am aware of Capt!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Todd
 
The early 33 Dancers used foam to cover the windshield screws, the foam shrinks and allows for water to intrude the channel and eventually soak through the screws into the Deck Core. Your best bet would be to talk to a marine surveyor about the issue. You may be able to remove the foam and screws along the front of the windshield and allow it to air out over the winter months, that may knock down the moisture levels a bit. The foam windshield gasket needs to be replaced with rubber (Taylor Made part number 8349030, not cheap! $4.00 + per foot I believe). I am a big fan of the cockpit cover on my boat, I only use the canvas (isinglass etc.) when I have too, the cockpit cover snaps below the windshield on my boat prevent the rain from penetrating the windshield seal. These are great boats, keep looking (met a guy over the weekend who picked up a 96 33 that was kept in a building off the Clinton River, that boat had quite the shine). Temptation Yacht sales had a few listed, local to St Clair, might be worth checking out if you have not done so already.
 
Hello everyone, I just recently purchased a '95 330 that needs a bit of TLC. Slowly but surely making progress. The fold out step to exit the boat on the port side is broken. Just the hinge bolt snapped but I forgot to bring it with me once I left the boat and was hoping someone on here my know the size bolt that it would take so I dont have to make an extra trip back up to get it. Thank you in advance

Mine broke as well this past weekend. The bolt is a 5/16-18 x 1-1/2" stainless steel stud. By that I mean they pressed it into place and it has no head on it. I had to disassemble it and drill it out. I then reamed the hole and pressed a bolt in. I also milled the thickness of the bolt's head to make sure it would clear the hole cutout when I reinstall it.
 
Thanks for the info about the windshield replacement rubber. I talked with a surveyor and he told me he has seen this on a few sea rays ( and other manufacturers ) boats near the base of the windshield. Has anyone tried to get this repaired ? I was wondering if I could negotiate price of boat down and then get a repair done that would save a nice boat. It really seems a shame to waste such a nice boat if it can be repaired. I have seen on a few blogs that they have removed the interior head liner, cut open the affected area and removed the wet balsa. Then it was filled with the West system epoxy and all put back together. I would think if this was done, along with resealing the base of the windshield, It would as good or better than new. Any thoughts ??????
 
Captain Dave,

I would be patient in your search. The removal of the headliner to replace the core in front of the windshield sounds like a huge job! Nothing is easy to do on a boat, I replaced the stereo remote that involved removing the interior components from the aft cabin to the head unit as well as the dash. I had thought this replacement was going to take an afternoon… It took two days.
 
Speaking of the Port Side Step…

I noticed the C Channel is starting to bend or compress in the area where it makes contact with the square stop. The Step is no longer perpendicular to the opening (Not off by much but enough to take notice). Has anybody had any luck in addressing this issue? I plan on pulling the step out this winter, bending the C Channel back to nominal, and add some type of reinforcement in the local area. Any 33 owners ever take on this issue?
 
Captain Dave,

I would be patient in your search. The removal of the headliner to replace the core in front of the windshield sounds like a huge job! Nothing is easy to do on a boat, I replaced the stereo remote that involved removing the interior components from the aft cabin to the head unit as well as the dash. I had thought this replacement was going to take an afternoon… It took two days.

tell me about it! I took a look at what it would take to replace the remote and decided to go with a Clarin CMD 5 which is the last head unit that worked with the wired remote on my boat. Guess I could have gone to a newer head unit and a wireless remote but they were pretty pricey when I replaced mine.
 
Hello All, I have been trying to buy a 96-99 330 Sundancer. I am looking at boats in the Great lakes area. I have inspected many boats and find all have had issues with the top deck delamination. Especially near the windshield. Has anyone had this repaired ? I am starting to feel that no matter which boat I buy, I will have to do some fiberglass work this fall. Any input will be greatly appreciated.

Dave,
I just purchased a 97 330DA that had the delamination fix in April of 2012. The Skipper Buds (Bay City) receipt shows a price of $5,092.80. The affected area was near the small port skylight between the deck hatch and windshield. Approx. 48inches in diameter.
fix2.jpg

Good luck!
 

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