Official 330 Sundancer Thread

So, my engine hatch actuator is driving me crazy! It runs off my acc. batteries and they are charged. I've taken it to have it tested and have been told there's nothing wrong. But when I try to raise my hatch, it's almost like the amp draw is just too much. Help!
 
G's SPOT II said:
So, my engine hatch actuator is driving me crazy! It runs off my acc. batteries and they are charged. I've taken it to have it tested and have been told there's nothing wrong. But when I try to raise my hatch, it's almost like the amp draw is just too much. Help!
Click to expand...

I had the same problem. My issue was crap on the ram itself. If you have an assistant, have them hold the "up" button while you assist in muscling the hatch up by hand. If you don't have an assistant, use a heavy shoe or a boat hook wedged between the switch and the helm seat.

Once raised, spray some WD-40 or similar on a paper towel wipe down the ram. Raise and lower the hatch a few times. Do the same for the center windshield vent. It worked great for me.

Now I do this every time as a part of my pre-departure checks. The difference is now I use the paper towel that I have used to wipe the dipsticks after checking the oil levels. No problems since 2010, knock fiberglass. Maybe this will work for you as we'll.

HTH
 
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I follow Dave's advice on wiping the excess oil from the dipsticks on the base of the ram, just a light amount nothing excessive. Some thoughts could be a battery going bad? Disconnect them and load check them see what you get. I had two going bad and there was not enough current to get the lift open so I used a jumper from the starboard battery to the cig plug to raise the hatch. The accurator and ram is not lighting fast ever so not sure how fast it should be.
 
1995 to 1999 330 Sundancer Manual Supplement (wiring diagrams)

I have taken the 1995 to 1999 330 Sundancer Owners Manual Supplement from Sea Ray's site and cleaned up the PDF a bit. I cropped it properly, rotated the pages so they are all "right side up", and tried to enhance the image a bit. I did it so it shows up on my iPAD better. Its better than before, but still not great.

If you would like a copy, PM me and I will send it to you.

(Sea Ray, or Rusty, if you are reading this, can you please have someone re-scan the original manual in better resolution and repost it to your site? The one that is there is really hard to read)
 
Tom,
I replaced both RE and ACC batteries. Thanks for the help.
 
Re: 1995 to 1999 330 Sundancer Manual Supplement (wiring diagrams)

Creekwood said:
I have taken the 1995 to 1999 330 Sundancer Owners Manual Supplement from Sea Ray's site and cleaned up the PDF a bit. I cropped it properly, rotated the pages so they are all "right side up", and tried to enhance the image a bit. I did it so it shows up on my iPAD better. Its better than before, but still not great.

If you would like a copy, PM me and I will send it to you.

(Sea Ray, or Rusty, if you are reading this, can you please have someone re-scan the original manual in better resolution and repost it to your site? The one that is there is really hard to read)
Click to expand...

Your PM inbox is full. Can you send a copy to stromeister@verizon.net?
 
Re: 1995 to 1999 330 Sundancer Manual Supplement (wiring diagrams)

Creekwood said:
I have taken the 1995 to 1999 330 Sundancer Owners Manual Supplement from Sea Ray's site and cleaned up the PDF a bit. I cropped it properly, rotated the pages so they are all "right side up", and tried to enhance the image a bit. I did it so it shows up on my iPAD better. Its better than before, but still not great.

If you would like a copy, PM me and I will send it to you.



(Sea Ray, or Rusty, if you are reading this, can you please have someone re-scan the original manual in better resolution and repost it to your site? The one that is there is really hard to read)
Click to expand...


If you don't mind I will take a copy!

Larry.shiner@verizon.net

Thanks!!!
 
No screws in the aft cabin bolsters. The forward cabin had them though and were easy to get out. I tried all angles I could think of for an hour and still could not get the seat cushion out.
 
Looked through this thread and couldn't find an answer to this one... Anyone know what size flax packing the rudder posts use? I'm guessing 1/4 - 1/2" but have no idea.


Also on a separate note I'd like to say that I've been working with a friend who is a marine mechanic and we have replaced my port side Tides Dripless shaft seal with a PSS seal. What a pain in the a$$, but it is possible to do it without pulling the engine, as some marinas told me they needed to do. Just involves a good amount of time upsidedown in the engine rooom. Still have the starboard side to do and then hopefully I'll have a much drier bilge this summer. So for anyone interested I can tell you the shaft log diameter is 2 1/2" and apparently the "new" Tides seals do not fit on the 330DA. So I used a PSS seal for a 1 1/4" shaft and 2 1/2" shaft log.
 
Does anyone have any clue how to change the ceiling speakers in the salon? I'm at the boat now doing the beginning of my stereo installation & I'm baffled on this one! Any help would be appreciated. As you can see I have LOTS if stuff to install!! ImageUploadedByTapatalk1366133144.143771.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
On my boat I can slide the lenses for the flourescent lights out of the way and get to the backside of the speakers. Hopefully, you can remove them from the back side.
 
tdschafer said:
Does anyone have any clue how to change the ceiling speakers in the salon? I'm at the boat now doing the beginning of my stereo installation & I'm baffled on this one! Any help would be appreciated. As you can see I have LOTS if stuff to install!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Remove the plastic lens and you will see there are bolts holding the speaker panels in that are over the speakers. The speakers are attached to the back of the cloth covered panels. The nuts on the bolts are a beyatch to get off but you can do it. I had to remove the florescent fixture to get at the back bolts on the side closest to the microwave. You have to turn them 1/8 th of a turn at a time with a small open end wrench. The bolts are long too. Horrible design. I replaced my speakers with automotive same size versions from JL audio. I figured the marine premium price and uv protection wasn't necessary in the salon.
 
Thanks guys. I looked in the lens area. There are no bolts on mine. I think they used phillips head screws to secure it from the top. I am going back tomorrow with a small ratchet screw driver wrench. Hopefully that will work. I am installing all JL Audio stuff except for two automotive JBL subs. They are getting installed under the port side of the mid cabin. That storage area is a beyatch to get to with any regularity due to the tight fitting cushion. The locker seems to be approximately the size needed for the box for these subs. I am also going to mount a couple of galvanized pipe flanges & nipples down there and put my spare props under there. I figure I will fashion some sort of bungee system to hold them down from bouncing around.

Thanks again for the quick responses!!

Todd
 
ippa2 said:
Looked through this thread and couldn't find an answer to this one... Anyone know what size flax packing the rudder posts use? I'm guessing 1/4 - 1/2" but have no idea.


Also on a separate note I'd like to say that I've been working with a friend who is a marine mechanic and we have replaced my port side Tides Dripless shaft seal with a PSS seal. What a pain in the a$$, but it is possible to do it without pulling the engine, as some marinas told me they needed to do. Just involves a good amount of time upsidedown in the engine rooom. Still have the starboard side to do and then hopefully I'll have a much drier bilge this summer. So for anyone interested I can tell you the shaft log diameter is 2 1/2" and apparently the "new" Tides seals do not fit on the 330DA. So I used a PSS seal for a 1 1/4" shaft and 2 1/2" shaft log.
Click to expand...

Did mine last year. Also found out they changed the size of the Tides seals. The PSS seals seemed to work fine. It was a pain, but we did it with engines in place also.

Nice not to here the bilge pump kicking on and off for hours after a run.
 
Re: 1995 to 1999 330 Sundancer Manual Supplement (wiring diagrams)

Hello everyone: 2 questions for you:

1. Im currently looking at buying a 330 and I have found 2 I like. One a 96 the other a 97, my question is one is an I/O and the other is an inboard, but they both have aft cabins, how can that be?

2. What year did Sea Ray change the styling of the later 90's boats?

Thanks
Chris
 
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