Official 330 Sundancer Thread

I appreciate the response...

Where does the filler piece that goes on the table store when not in use...under the seat?

I think that the cushion is missing from my boat
 
chritor said:
A question regarding the shower sump pump...96 330 Sundancer.. was an Attwood V750 with separate float switch .... I have read many of the forum threads but still need help as a recent owner of this boat and have not used shower as yet...(on this boat) but the sump was full of water and pump not running...(all circuits on) I removed the pump and found the motor to be seized..(rusted solid ..probably water through seal) I have fitted a replacement pump but there is no power through the circuit ... bypassed the float switch and still no power...
Questions as I have never had the sump running... can someone tell me which power circuit the sump should normally run on ie accessories or water?
there is an inline fuse just before the sump box in the wiring loop .. but is there another circuit breaker or fuse elsewhere that needs checking also?
there doesnt appear to be any isolating switch external to the sump ...or have I just not found it? ie some boats run a separate switch in the shower bay... I assume on the searay it is always on when water pump is active?
any help with this one greatly appreciated
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Fixed... just for anyones future reference ... shower box sump fuse is in the engine bay fuse board...( with a trip switch as well) ... in a process of elimination... the pump was seized-the float switch not working - the engine bay trip , thrown and then to add insult to injury a small drip on the inlet pipe became slightly more of a problem when the whole inlet pipe into the box came away in my hand from a previous glued repair! all working well now tho!
 
Hey Guys,

Boat is in storage and need a favor. Do you know what size Groco Seacocks are in a 1995 330?? The big ones for the engine cooling. If you have a picture that would help too. Thanks!
 
Would anyone know the diameter of the stern tube aka shaft log (the tube the shaft goes into as it passes through the hull) on the 330 ('97)? I am replacing my Tides Dripless shaft seals with PSS, but I don't know the stern tube diameter and in order for me to get a measurement I need to remove the Tides... which i'm having someone do for me.

If anyone has replaced their dripless seals I'm sure you would've found out this crucial piece of info...

Thanks,
Mike
 
I don't think that 16.7 a max will be enough. I'm trying to remember the amp readings on mine and when I was having work done to it. 20 amp start-up seems to ring a bell, or at least be in the ballpark. The only other thing on that 30 amp panel is the microwave and I think mine draws about 2.2 amps.
 
So I'm going start my laundry list of chores to get the boat back to where it needs to be for the start of season. Bought the boat last march and seemed to have minor hiccups through out season with various items. So far... Need new or rebuild ac/ heat water pump and fresh water pump. Selenoid for strbd side starter, maybe a new starter. Need to repack both stuffing boxes. They were leaking like a sive by end of season no latter how much tightened.( No room left. ) might I add that I have 7.4's with v drive. I need a bilge monkey, anyone know where to rent one ? Also the sump for the shower. It was dead. Not sure if its seized or a power issue. Need new plugs and wires for motors. Having a lighting issue on dash for switches. Need new vent for waste system. Need to check out carb for genny. Had issues with starting and found there is.a.cardboard filter in carb that has started to disintegrate. Already replaced all in line filters, 4 of them. Back rest cushion in salon area needs to be pulled and back plate replaced.( rotten wood plate). And last but not least and most expensive, may need.to reach down deep in change jar and replace.windlass if cannot rebuild. Ouch !!



HTC EVO 3D
 
I moved my fresh water pump from the bilge to the battery/storage compartment beneath the aft facing lounge seat just aft of the helm seat. Makes it much easier to clean the intake filter.
 
My fresh water pump is actually located under the mid cabin lounge area. That's also where the fresh water tank is located too. Easy access. The heating/ac pump is the one which is a bear to get to.

HTC EVO 3D
 
dpmulvey said:
I moved my fresh water pump from the bilge to the battery/storage compartment beneath the aft facing lounge seat just aft of the helm seat. Makes it much easier to clean the intake filter.
Click to expand...

Good idea Dave! :smt038
It is a b!tch to get to mine...:smt021
 
Fruition... like you only a new only as such. Fortunately over here we do not have to do the whole winterizatrion thing. We only got our boat December last year. We had a few things to do as well, immediately were 5 new batteries, new sea water pumps, check and bench test alternators, new VHF radio, oil and coolant replacements. I have ordered new canvas and plastics, which should be started next week or so.

Still to do..... I have a Kolher generator that is not going. It is being looked at, it is not seized but does not start, I want to buy new manifolds and risers (these will need to be done this year), fix up holding tank vent (I think a change if filter may fix this), new tv antenna, set of new plugs and wires, change fuel filters, service all seacocks, look at a small solar panel charging system, look at stuffing boxes as well. I thought i might need rebuild carburetors due to hard starting, but I think it was how I was starting the cold engines. I am trying a new method and they seem to be starting a lot easier now. This year is going to be an expensive year for parts and labour, but the canvas and manifolds will last a few years.
 
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Mine have always been slightly hard starting from cold start. Once they were started though, they always fired right up the rest if the weekend. What is your new method ?

HTC EVO 3D
 
I have read a lot of other forums after a google search. Most say the reason for hard cold start is evaporation or leaking of the fuel from the bowls in the carb. Suggestion was to crank engines first to get some fuel back there, say 5 seconds, then prime the throttles a couple of times. On my handover with the previous owner, he said pump the throttles 3 or 4 times before trying to kick it over. Like yours mine are fine once started.
 
Ok wanted to make.sure wasn't doing anything different. That is exactly how I got better results last.season. I guess It reminds me of oldschool way of startin the older cars. Never had to prime em again during the.weekend.once.started Friday evening.

HTC EVO 3D
 
Fruition said:
Ok wanted to make.sure wasn't doing anything different. That is exactly how I got better results last.season. I guess It reminds me of oldschool way of startin the older cars. Never had to prime em again during the.weekend.once.started Friday evening.

HTC EVO 3D
Click to expand...

FWIW, I had the same problem w/ fuel injection.
 
1996 330 Sundancer V drive with 5.7's Does anyone have any real world numbers they can share?

I am concerned about the lack of torque vs. the big blocks.

Also, what was the weight limit for the extended swim platform?

I have also read about water ingestion issues. What was the best corrective action for this issue?
 
itsabowtime2 said:
1996 330 Sundancer V drive with 5.7's Does anyone have any real world numbers they can share?

I am concerned about the lack of torque vs. the big blocks.

Also, what was the weight limit for the extended swim platform?

I have also read about water ingestion issues. What was the best corrective action for this issue?
Click to expand...

The 5.7 was the baseline engine. If they are the original engines, they are pushing around 270 HP and are not a high torque engine. You will be disappointed. If they are the 350 mags, you'll be OK.

You'll need to enlarge the tabs regardless of the engines to get her to run at the proper attitude.

I am not sure about your swim platform question. If you are thinking of putting a dink there, you will be adding to the "squatting" problem as you will be adding more weight to the stern. I do not know what the weight limitations are.

Water ingestion was a HUGE problem for that series of 330's. You will need to put a 3 or 6 inch (I cannot recall which) riser extender to mitigate/eliminate the problem. One of the reasons Saint Max has 6.2's is because of water ingestion in her 454's. FWebster is better equipped to respond to that issue than I. All I know is I saw the receipts for the 6.2 installs and they were at no cost to the previous owner.

HTH
 
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