Official 330 Sundancer Thread

[tdschafer]

SHAFT SEALS




UPDATE!!!!! The mechanic tried to replace with tides seals with the new tides seals, and they wouldn't fit. The new style tides has a large plastic head ~5" across. Won't fit with V-drives, it hits the transmission. Found out while in the slings. Luckily we were able to find the PSS seals in stock at a WM dstributer store about 1/2 hr away. Picked them up and am now back in the water.

I have a 1997 Sundancer 330 with 7.4l MPIs with V-Drives. If you have the same you might want the PSS seals.

Thanks for the tip! Imagine if another store didn't have them? That would have sucked!

 

[TodS]

Any ideas on how to remove the headliner above the electric panel so that I can replace a blown speaker? The trim strip around the lights and speaker area seems to be glued in place. I was hoping to avoid ripping that off...

Any thoughts?

 

[LTD.330]

If you move the lens for the lights to the side, you can get to the backside of the speaker. Hopefully you should be able to remove the speakers without removing the headliner.

 

[tdschafer]

Any ideas on how to remove the headliner above the electric panel so that I can replace a blown speaker? The trim strip around the lights and speaker area seems to be glued in place. I was hoping to avoid ripping that off...

Any thoughts?

I was looking at mine last year and I don't think I can get it down without ruining it. I read here before the same thing LTD said, that they are removable through the light lens. I hope that is correct!

 

[Creekwood]

Any ideas on how to remove the headliner above the electric panel so that I can replace a blown speaker? The trim strip around the lights and speaker area seems to be glued in place. I was hoping to avoid ripping that off...

Any thoughts?

Remove the plastic lens nd you will see there are bolts holding the panels in that are over the speakers. They are a beyatch to get offbut you can do it. I had to remove the florescent fixture to get at the back bolts on the side closest to the microwave. You have to turn them 1/8 th of a turn at a time. Horrible. I replaced my speakers with automotive versions from JL audio.

 

[wvsundancer]

Looking at a 1998 330DA with 376 Hours on it. The boat has 7.4 310 HP inboards. Waiting for some more info from the selling dealer. Can any or all of you shead some light on things I may need to look for? The boat has been kept in a covered slip and looks very nice. Kinda of "freaked out buying a 1998 model boat but what the heck??

 

[dpmulvey]

Looking at a 1998 330DA with 376 Hours on it. The boat has 7.4 310 HP inboards. Waiting for some more info from the selling dealer. Can any or all of you shead some light on things I may need to look for? The boat has been kept in a covered slip and looks very nice. Kinda of "freaked out buying a 1998 model boat but what the heck??

If original, the electronics are due for an upgrade. They make GREAT backups and the Ray LORAN/GPS matched my charts pretty accurately. I'm starting to get some water through the through hull for the transducer. Check for water there. Exercise the seacocks. The A/C is particularly tough to get to. Make sure all through hulls have strainer and the strainers have handles. DAMHIK! Check all portholes for leaks, especially the one in the galley. You can tell by a tattletale dirt streak on the vinyl liner inside. Open the portholes and see if the gaskets have been serviced. IMO, taking care of the little things is a pretty good indication the big things have been looked at. Check the condition of the insulation under the hatch. Is the fresh water pump for the drinking water system original? How's the water pressure from it. If it's low or you hear it constantly cycle, a rebuild kit is almost as much as a new pump. Mine was $300 to R/R including the pump. Full disclosure, I did have it moved to the compartment under the seat aft of the helm where the batteries are.

The usuals are fluid analysis. Sea Trial. Survey. I cannot emphasize this enough. If you can, get a surveyor with a thermal imaging system if you can. Comparing thermal imaging to a thumping hammer, is like comparing a Corvette to a Chevette. Here is a pix of thermal imaging. Is the blue area ice in the bilge or ice in between the layers of glass?



HTH

 

[wvsundancer]

Thanks for all you input...

 

[rumrunner]

SHAFT SEALS




UPDATE!!!!! The mechanic tried to replace with tides seals with the new tides seals, and they wouldn't fit. The new style tides has a large plastic head ~5" across. Won't fit with V-drives, it hits the transmission. Found out while in the slings. Luckily we were able to find the PSS seals in stock at a WM dstributer store about 1/2 hr away. Picked them up and am now back in the water.

I have a 1997 Sundancer 330 with 7.4l MPIs with V-Drives. If you have the same you might want the PSS seals.

I am still trying to figure out how the mechanic got down there to replace the shaft seals. I have been trying to track down a water leak specific to the port motor, not a lot of water, not enough to make the bilge pump run but enough for me to take notice. Had a leak at the riser gasket and raw water pump, both issues addresses this week. Next step to investigate the shaft seal if water still exists… Do not see any leaks at the dock but running may be a different story.

 

[chritor]

Greetings and thanks for all the valuable information in this forum! As a newby to the whole cruising scene I have recently bought into a 1996 330 Sundancer powered with 5.7l efi mercruisers on bravo 3 stern legs located in New Zealand... looking forward to moving from a small ski boat into some overnight cruising ..

I wondered if anyone can help with information on sat nav system first up
there is a Raytheon Raychart 620 unit on board using C-map chart sticks.. I need to get a chart for my region but my research shows I require a C- map NT chart card ( apparently will not accept a NT+)
I have found a C-map MAX NT chart card for the region ... does anyone know or have advice whether this 'MAX' unit will still work in the 620 chart plotter ?

Regards to all and thanks
Chris

 

[dmartin155]

I am still trying to figure out how the mechanic got down there to replace the shaft seals. I have been trying to track down a water leak specific to the port motor, not a lot of water, not enough to make the bilge pump run but enough for me to take notice. Had a leak at the riser gasket and raw water pump, both issues addresses this week. Next step to investigate the shaft seal if water still exists… Do not see any leaks at the dock but running may be a different story.

Try running the boat for a while. When you get back to the dock check the leak. If its leaking more it could be shaft seals. Mine leaked like a small stream after running the boat (seals got heated up and expanded) Bilge would come on every 8 mins or so, and then decrease as the seals cooled. Until they almost stopped leaking altogether.

The mechanic is a lot smaller then me, he did a lot of swearing and was bitching about the blood rushing to his head!!! To change you will have to pull the props, and slide the shafts part way out put new seals and push shafts back in and re-connect to transmission. With 2 people it can be done in a few hours, As long as the new seals fit!!!!!!

P.S. If its the seals they probably wont leak while running, (engine is pumping water into them and out under the boat). But will leak when you stop. If it is leaking while running it could be the small hose from engine to seal, or another hose on engine.

 

[osubob]

Hello all,

I recently purchased a 1997 330 Sundancer. I love the boat, but am having a difficult time finding where I hook up the shore water supply. I've been living off the inboard water supply from the tank. Does this boat have a hook up somewhere? I would have thought this would come standard on a boat of this size.

Also, what are you getting for the 7.4L carb WOT RPM. Im only getting about 4000 RPM. Compression check came back great in the 135-140PSI range. Not sure what else to check. Maybe it is a prop issue. I have the 17" x 17 degree props, three blade.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

 

[tdschafer]

Hello all,

I recently purchased a 1997 330 Sundancer. I love the boat, but am having a difficult time finding where I hook up the shore water supply. I've been living off the inboard water supply from the tank. Does this boat have a hook up somewhere? I would have thought this would come standard on a boat of this size.

Also, what are you getting for the 7.4L carb WOT RPM. Im only getting about 4000 RPM. Compression check came back great in the 135-140PSI range. Not sure what else to check. Maybe it is a prop issue. I have the 17" x 17 degree props, three blade.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Bob

Bob,


Welcome aboard CSR!!

The shore water hookup should be in the cockpit locker on the starboard side. You have to remove the seating that completes the U shape.

I think I get around 4200-4400 rpms WOT. I'm running 17" 16 pitch 4 blade props.

 

[osubob]

Thanks Todd! Never thought to check there. I appreciate the help. I called a mechanic to look over the engines. Better safe than sorry. Hopefully I can get those RPM's up.

Bob

 

[ippa2]

DMartin - Could you tell us the part numbers/model on the PSS seals? I was just thinking of purchasing new Tides seals, glad I didn't! I have yet to find a mechanic that will do the shaft seals without pulling an engine... I really really don't want to pull engines to change the seals.

My bilge pump also cycles on about every 10 mins after running the boat. Does that for a couple hrs and then it stops. I also think I have a leak somewhere else, but have yet to find it. I know the shaft seals are leaking and my rudder posts drip a little. Tranducer might be also!

 

[ippa2]

Bob is your bottom clean??? If you just purchased the boat and it hasn't been run much this summer a dirty bottom will knock you down a couple hundred RPMs. In the offseason you might want to have the props tuned and balanced.

Thanks Todd! Never thought to check there. I appreciate the help. I called a mechanic to look over the engines. Better safe than sorry. Hopefully I can get those RPM's up.

Bob

 

[dmartin155]

DMartin - Could you tell us the part numbers/model on the PSS seals? I was just thinking of purchasing new Tides seals, glad I didn't! I have yet to find a mechanic that will do the shaft seals without pulling an engine... I really really don't want to pull engines to change the seals.

My bilge pump also cycles on about every 10 mins after running the boat. Does that for a couple hrs and then it stops. I also think I have a leak somewhere else, but have yet to find it. I know the shaft seals are leaking and my rudder posts drip a little. Tranducer might be also!

I'll have to ask the Mechanic, he's the one that called West Marine to order them when the Tides didn't fit. My shafts are 1 1/4", don't know if yours are the same. Also you will need to measure old seal, I believe mine were 2 5/8" by 2 1/2". (size of rubber tube on the ends). But will check with him.

 

[ippa2]

where do people store the front plastics on the boat mine do not roll up I fold them but they are big and bulky. looking for a new idea because I usually keep them in the aft cabin

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[Creekwood]

where do people store the front plastics on the boat mine do not roll up I fold them but they are big and bulky. looking for a new idea because I usually keep them in the aft cabin

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I seldom remove them other than the centre panel. Too much of a pain to put back on at the end of the day. The center panel goes in the aft cabin closet along with the aft curtain.

 

[330DA]

I am still trying to figure out how the mechanic got down there to replace the shaft seals. I have been trying to track down a water leak specific to the port motor, not a lot of water, not enough to make the bilge pump run but enough for me to take notice. Had a leak at the riser gasket and raw water pump, both issues addresses this week. Next step to investigate the shaft seal if water still exists… Do not see any leaks at the dock but running may be a different story.

I had the same kind of leak on the port engine of our prior 330DA. It would only leak while running. It came from the shaft seal. It turned out to be a small crack in the shaft tube.